Long Tube Headers (My Experience Thus Far)
08-24-2013, 08:15 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 41
Long Tube Headers (My Experience Thus Far)
Hi all,
Well I finally got all my parts together. MAC LTs, MAC Prochambers and MAC chambered CAT-Back. I read many threads regarding the difficulty of the install and just wanted to share my experience.
Friday Night after work I was able to remove the stock exhaust and the passenger side header. Toward the last 2 bolts on the stock header I decided I was going to wake up Saturday (today) and remove the K-Member. Boy am I glad I did. The K-Member was not hard to remove. I had it out (first time ever doing it) in under 2 hours. Then removed the steering arm, the driver side header and cleaned everything up to install the new headers. I purchased the Stage 8 Header bolts from Performance Ford. Now here is where the fun part began. The header bolts refused to thread right. I could not hand tighten a single one without even having the headers in place. I paced around for a few hours and finally said screw it and went to O'Reilly's and bought a metric tap and die. (already had a standard) After re-threading ALL of the header bolt holes in the head I was able to install the passenger side header. (my guess is when Ford installed the stock headers the line worker had his air turned up to high and pulled the threaded aluminum a little). When I attempted to remove the EGR tube connector out of the stock driver-side header that was soaked in liquid wrench in a vise with an impact gun running down and up, down and up it finally released with absolutely no threads remaining on it. It apparently had welded itself together. So in a rush to find a replacement I checked on-hand. I have a lot of old motors and such lying around. No Luck. So I checked local salvage yards and again no luck. Ford said they could get one but it will be the end of next week. Finally, I found an Auto-Zone that could get one tomorrow. So here I set waiting.
I wanted to note I have a a full blown shop with lift, air tools, swivel sockets off-set wrenches 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 etc.etc.etc. Here it has been one full day and an evening and thus far not finished. Mind you I spent a ton of time looking for parts today. I have also ordered a tubular k-member and a-frames because I never want to deal with not being able to see a f*&%ing thing under my engine.
This has been a fun project so far less the small issues like header bolts and EGR tube connector but it is not something I would recommend to the average Joe that doesn't have access to the shop I do.
I will let you all know how tomorrow goes.
Anyone had similar experiences?
Austin
Well I finally got all my parts together. MAC LTs, MAC Prochambers and MAC chambered CAT-Back. I read many threads regarding the difficulty of the install and just wanted to share my experience.
Friday Night after work I was able to remove the stock exhaust and the passenger side header. Toward the last 2 bolts on the stock header I decided I was going to wake up Saturday (today) and remove the K-Member. Boy am I glad I did. The K-Member was not hard to remove. I had it out (first time ever doing it) in under 2 hours. Then removed the steering arm, the driver side header and cleaned everything up to install the new headers. I purchased the Stage 8 Header bolts from Performance Ford. Now here is where the fun part began. The header bolts refused to thread right. I could not hand tighten a single one without even having the headers in place. I paced around for a few hours and finally said screw it and went to O'Reilly's and bought a metric tap and die. (already had a standard) After re-threading ALL of the header bolt holes in the head I was able to install the passenger side header. (my guess is when Ford installed the stock headers the line worker had his air turned up to high and pulled the threaded aluminum a little). When I attempted to remove the EGR tube connector out of the stock driver-side header that was soaked in liquid wrench in a vise with an impact gun running down and up, down and up it finally released with absolutely no threads remaining on it. It apparently had welded itself together. So in a rush to find a replacement I checked on-hand. I have a lot of old motors and such lying around. No Luck. So I checked local salvage yards and again no luck. Ford said they could get one but it will be the end of next week. Finally, I found an Auto-Zone that could get one tomorrow. So here I set waiting.
I wanted to note I have a a full blown shop with lift, air tools, swivel sockets off-set wrenches 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 etc.etc.etc. Here it has been one full day and an evening and thus far not finished. Mind you I spent a ton of time looking for parts today. I have also ordered a tubular k-member and a-frames because I never want to deal with not being able to see a f*&%ing thing under my engine.
This has been a fun project so far less the small issues like header bolts and EGR tube connector but it is not something I would recommend to the average Joe that doesn't have access to the shop I do.
I will let you all know how tomorrow goes.
Anyone had similar experiences?
Austin
08-25-2013, 09:24 AM
#3
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: ohio
Posts: 3,628
I did my long tubes sitting out in my drive way with a jack and 2 jack stands, average temp of 30 degrees f. I didn't remove the K member , just raised the engine up slightly.
ON my longtubes I did have to ream the flange holes to make them match up and had to buy a set of header bolts that would clear the bigger tube diameter. I never touched the mounting holes in the heads , that would be a nightmare.
OP I hope you put some anti seize on those header bolts going into aluminum heads.
08-28-2013, 12:05 PM
#4
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: KY, was MA
Posts: 2,797
My biggest issue with anything like that is tghe removal of stock header bolts on any engines with decent miles on them.
Removing a K member etc doesn't scare me. Snapping a stock header bolt inside the head most certainly does LOL.
Especially on a 4V motor with close to ZERO room to work between the inner fender and valve cover.
Removing a K member etc doesn't scare me. Snapping a stock header bolt inside the head most certainly does LOL.
Especially on a 4V motor with close to ZERO room to work between the inner fender and valve cover.
08-29-2013, 05:40 PM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 41
Rest of the install
Well everything is together. MAC LT and Mid Pipe did not want to fit together. Had to beat the bolts around. They were about 3/4 inch to wide once bolts were threaded in. No I didn't drop it that's how it came. Luke, it's too damn quiet. Before you install your Pro-Chambers I'd recommend sending them back for H-Pipes and put the extra $100 back in your pocket. Makes the car sound like a v6. I've already posted my thoughts on another forum about how quiet it is.
Austin
Austin
08-30-2013, 04:52 PM
#8
i have a borla stinger cat back and i think it will really open it up maybe where your mac cat back does not.
friend has heard this one and i found on youtube. dead on what i want mine to sound like and it has catted prochamber. sounds so sexy!
friend has heard this one and i found on youtube. dead on what i want mine to sound like and it has catted prochamber. sounds so sexy!
09-01-2013, 11:18 AM
#9
Resident Ford Troll
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Delaware
Posts: 6,717
you my friend, have not worked on enough mod motors...SUPER common for those studs to break off in the head. I just did a f150 last week both sides were all jacked up....hours of drilling and easy outs and left handed bits.....good times said no one ever