are my rear calipers dead? rusted pins, hard to turn piston. 2000 GT *PICS INSIDE*
#1
are my rear calipers dead? rusted pins, hard to turn piston. 2000 GT *PICS INSIDE*
Determined the source of my noise to be coming from rear of car. Looked closely and noticed inner pad was worn down and the edge was rubbing something.
Started taking caliper apart, and noticed the caliper pins look rusted out. Also it is VERY hard to turn in the piston.
Purchased piston turning tool, and the pins on it do not match with the caliper piston - is this normal? Is there a ford specific tool to buy?
Should I replace this caliper, or can I sand down or replace the pins and be fine?
What should I expect to pay for new rebuilt calipers with core returned? Does $130 sound reasonable?
Started taking caliper apart, and noticed the caliper pins look rusted out. Also it is VERY hard to turn in the piston.
Purchased piston turning tool, and the pins on it do not match with the caliper piston - is this normal? Is there a ford specific tool to buy?
Should I replace this caliper, or can I sand down or replace the pins and be fine?
What should I expect to pay for new rebuilt calipers with core returned? Does $130 sound reasonable?
#2
Those pins seize up often, on previous mustangs I've had i would have to heat the crap out of the bracket then twist and pry the pins out. On those I'd just hit the pins with a wire brush until they can slide in and out of the bracket freely, then just grease them and use again. for the calipers I'd try and find the correct adapter, shouldn't be a ford only part.
#3
Decided to replace caliper.
Do you guys know how to disconnect the parking break from the rear caliper? I removed the 13mm bolts and 15mm bolts but I see no way to disconnect the parking brake cable from the caliper. I see a bolt holding the spring in but it doesn't seem like removing that would help.
Do you guys know how to disconnect the parking break from the rear caliper? I removed the 13mm bolts and 15mm bolts but I see no way to disconnect the parking brake cable from the caliper. I see a bolt holding the spring in but it doesn't seem like removing that would help.
#4
Guys I just reinstalled calipers with new pads, and bled fluid through the right rear brake. However now there is MUCH more play in the brake before it actually engages whiles driving. Also the e-brake doesn't engage as well as it used to before which is odd because I figured the hydraulic system wouldn't affect it.
Any idea on whats wrong? I didn't see any bubbles coming out towards the end of the bleeding. Should I be bleeding through the other brakes as well, even though I only removed the right rear line?
Any idea on whats wrong? I didn't see any bubbles coming out towards the end of the bleeding. Should I be bleeding through the other brakes as well, even though I only removed the right rear line?
#5
I'm pretty sure you should bleed all lines now that you exposed one line... Start farthest from master cylinder and work your way in - i.e. passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. then bleed the master cylinder as well... I know my car was all messed up after bleeding my brakes --- I had to bleed the master cylinder too in order for it to go back to normal!
#6
I'm pretty sure you should bleed all lines now that you exposed one line... Start farthest from master cylinder and work your way in - i.e. passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. then bleed the master cylinder as well... I know my car was all messed up after bleeding my brakes --- I had to bleed the master cylinder too in order for it to go back to normal!
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inyadreems
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08-21-2015 09:10 AM