4.6L General Discussion This section is for non-tech specific information pertaining to 4.6L (Modular) Mustangs built from 1996 to 2004.

Supercharged guys need some help

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Old 10-06-2013, 11:25 PM
  #11  
Bman2000
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i only had 7.75 on a 3.33 pullie but i also dont have a stroker and heads and cams. that being said the rpm your at makes a difference on boost and power. But more importantly, the boost does not matter, just the power. since you have heads and cams and a slightly larger motor your boost will drop. the power is still low, but as your motor breaths better the boost goes down, so you will need to swap pullies to really make much boost....IMO 9psi at 5800 sounds right, considering your pullie is only a 3.12 and im assuming a stock lower. the power just sounds wrong.
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Old 10-07-2013, 04:27 PM
  #12  
dwtjr3
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So did you get the problem fixed?

Is your BOV full open at idle now?
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Old 10-08-2013, 06:18 PM
  #13  
Bman2000
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i found when i set my bov up that i tapped into a line way to small. What ended up working the best was tapping into i believe the evap port on the back of the upper intake. Very strong signal there, got rid of my fluttering issue.
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Old 10-08-2013, 09:15 PM
  #14  
dwtjr3
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hmmm I have a bit of a fluttering issue myself, I tapped into the vacuum line right next to the Plenum.

But did the op fix his problem?
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Old 10-09-2013, 08:28 PM
  #15  
RiCe_KiLlEr
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Car is still not 100% correct. I replaced the IAC valve and TPS sensor. Car idles and drives perfect with IAC sensor unplugged. Has me stumped. Car is going back to my tuner in a few weeks.
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Old 10-10-2013, 10:15 AM
  #16  
dwtjr3
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Did you ever figure out your BOV OP? Because that definitely should be fully open at idle
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Old 10-12-2013, 12:02 PM
  #17  
uberstang1
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Alot going on here so its hard for me to say without seeing the car or data logs, but honestly if your tuner couldn't figure this out its time to go somewhere else.
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Old 10-14-2013, 10:10 PM
  #18  
Bman2000
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i had some issues with idle on mine, but it was mainly the idle hanging at 1500 when i put the clutch in, but once you stopped and waited like 5-10 seconds it settled. Didnt like it but got it back into an acceptable range. i tell you what though, in rough tune it was a pain in the *** to drive in traffic.
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Old 10-16-2013, 11:26 PM
  #19  
Dominasian
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Problem #1 boost leak, these are pain in the ***, i worked on my friends car from time to time and getting rid of those will get you in general better driving car. It was said right that if you disconnect MAF the car will simply die because computer cant read how much air car needs. If you plug it in and you idle high then you have too much air incoming, if your garage doesnt smell like gasoline after idling a car for couple of seconds then its a lean mixture problem. The reason you are not getting right numbers is highly possible because of boost leaks. If you have a gauge installed you will be able to see creep when boosting, basically car jumps to like 9psi and then drops to 7.5.

Problem #2 find a new tuner this one might now know what he/she is doing. If you have a BAMA tuner just ask them to make you a tune and list all your mods, they will get you close to a proper running condition, if you want to go full on then get a dyno tune.

Hopefully that answered you question.
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