Oil pressure
10-09-2016, 11:03 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Texas
Posts: 2
Oil pressure
I got a 2001 mustang gt with about 150000 miles. The other day the oil pressure was above average but I didn't think much about it. I stopped at a store to get something to drink and when I took off the oil pressure read 0. So I pulled over and checked the oil. I had plenty of oil. I took a flashlight and looked at the lifters and didn't see any oil. I turned the car off and noticed a little smoke coming out where you put the oil in. Which is where I looked at the lifters not getting oil. So I towed the car home. The next day I let someone look at it. He cranked it up and the oil pressure read normal and sounded good. But I did notice the faN looked like it had a little oil on it. Any suggestions would be a big help.
10-10-2016, 10:23 AM
#2
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,826
How exactly are you observing oil pressure - with an actual mechanical gauge or with the glorified idiot light disguised as a gauge in the cluster?
The factory gauge is operated by what is basically an on/off switch, all it takes is 6 psi to get a "normal" reading. Obviously 6 psi is not anywhere near sufficient pressure under any conditions.
If the engine is not making any abnormal noises - clicking, tapping, knocking etc then oil pressure is likely ok. In the event of a sudden loss of pressure, I think things would get noisy pretty damn quick - within seconds. The sending unit for the gauge is right next to the oil filter; there is a single wire running from it, I would check that it is connected and not damaged.
The smoke/vapor you observed from the crankcase could be a few things, but if only a little bit I would chock it up to normal engine wear. If it was a lot then there may be more serious issues such as worn piston rings (blow by) or worn valve seats, allowing exhaust flow to get pumped into the crakcase. Looking down the oil fill hole with the engine running you're not going to see a whole lot of oil. You can only see a cam lobe or two and should be able to tell that they're getting lubricated but I wouldn't expect to see a flood of oil there.
If you are concrened about leaks anywhere (such as the oil observed on the fan) I would suggest using a degreaser like Simple Green to clean the area and then observe closely for the next few/several days to see if it reocurrs; having the area clean will usually also help you find the source.
The factory gauge is operated by what is basically an on/off switch, all it takes is 6 psi to get a "normal" reading. Obviously 6 psi is not anywhere near sufficient pressure under any conditions.
If the engine is not making any abnormal noises - clicking, tapping, knocking etc then oil pressure is likely ok. In the event of a sudden loss of pressure, I think things would get noisy pretty damn quick - within seconds. The sending unit for the gauge is right next to the oil filter; there is a single wire running from it, I would check that it is connected and not damaged.
The smoke/vapor you observed from the crankcase could be a few things, but if only a little bit I would chock it up to normal engine wear. If it was a lot then there may be more serious issues such as worn piston rings (blow by) or worn valve seats, allowing exhaust flow to get pumped into the crakcase. Looking down the oil fill hole with the engine running you're not going to see a whole lot of oil. You can only see a cam lobe or two and should be able to tell that they're getting lubricated but I wouldn't expect to see a flood of oil there.
If you are concrened about leaks anywhere (such as the oil observed on the fan) I would suggest using a degreaser like Simple Green to clean the area and then observe closely for the next few/several days to see if it reocurrs; having the area clean will usually also help you find the source.
10-10-2016, 10:33 AM
#3
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,826
Something else, just to keep in mind....
The timing chain guides on these engines (and most others) are made of plastic and they do wear. As that happens, little chunks of plastic broken off from the guides make their way into the oil pan and become an obstruction for the oil pickup tube. This would go a long way toward explaining your observations of low/no oil pressure and lack of lubrication observed in the top of the engine.
Unfortunately the only way to drop the oil pan and inspect for debris involved either pulling the engine or dropping the K member. You may also consider sourcing an oil filter cutter and at your next oil change you can open the filter and see if any debris has made it in there.
Replacing the timing chain, guides and tensioners on these engines isn't terribly expensive as far as parts go, but if paying a shop I could see the labor bill getting a little pricey. Especially if it's necessary to remove the oil pan from the engine to clear it of debris.
The timing chain guides on these engines (and most others) are made of plastic and they do wear. As that happens, little chunks of plastic broken off from the guides make their way into the oil pan and become an obstruction for the oil pickup tube. This would go a long way toward explaining your observations of low/no oil pressure and lack of lubrication observed in the top of the engine.
Unfortunately the only way to drop the oil pan and inspect for debris involved either pulling the engine or dropping the K member. You may also consider sourcing an oil filter cutter and at your next oil change you can open the filter and see if any debris has made it in there.
Replacing the timing chain, guides and tensioners on these engines isn't terribly expensive as far as parts go, but if paying a shop I could see the labor bill getting a little pricey. Especially if it's necessary to remove the oil pan from the engine to clear it of debris.
10-10-2016, 11:40 AM
#5
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,826
Disclaimer - I've not dropped the K member before, so cannot give pinpoint instruction.
You first will need to support the engine from above with a brace and chain. The K member is basically the engine cradle and has the entire front suspension bolted to it. The steering rack needs to be unbolted, tie rods disconnected from A arms, brake calipers removed and hung, unbolt the struts from the spindles, probably remove springs, unbolt the engine mounts..... Probably at least a few other steps I'm forgetting to mention, but just trying to give you a general overview.
A second set of hands would be good, the K member is a little awkward and a bit heavy and even though ideally once unbolted from everything you would use a floor jack to lower it a set of hands to steady it on the jack would be a good thing. It's a fair amount of work, for a first timer I would guess a couple hours each way - those who have done it more than once say they can have it out in 30 minutes, so it's one of those sort of jobs.
You first will need to support the engine from above with a brace and chain. The K member is basically the engine cradle and has the entire front suspension bolted to it. The steering rack needs to be unbolted, tie rods disconnected from A arms, brake calipers removed and hung, unbolt the struts from the spindles, probably remove springs, unbolt the engine mounts..... Probably at least a few other steps I'm forgetting to mention, but just trying to give you a general overview.
A second set of hands would be good, the K member is a little awkward and a bit heavy and even though ideally once unbolted from everything you would use a floor jack to lower it a set of hands to steady it on the jack would be a good thing. It's a fair amount of work, for a first timer I would guess a couple hours each way - those who have done it more than once say they can have it out in 30 minutes, so it's one of those sort of jobs.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mkk2525
V6 S197 General Discussion
3
07-15-2016 10:31 AM
MustangForums Editor
Mustang News, Concepts, Rumors & Discussion
0
07-13-2016 12:55 PM