AirborneCZ

Currently what I have installed pulleys, CAI+tune, triax, lower trailing arms and g trac and panhard bar.

I use the car for every day driving with very occasional street/drag and couple of times a year for a day at the "big" racing track. Of course I want HP and tq increase for drag while I want to keep handling & braking at convenient level (like for racing track) and not to risk any engine damage or decrease its life...

I was looking onto all Paxton Novi, Steeda/Magnuson and Vortech. Is there any major difference among them (apart from 2K $ tag difference)?

My friend installed Vortech and blowed the engine, now he did it for 2Nd time installing new clutch and shorter piston rods and it seems to work fine. So my question is what else I need to buy apart from S/C itself so I dont end up in a messy situation with engine... Dual Friction clutch + HD pressure plates?

What about those aftermarket piston rods? Flywheel? IAT sensor? Are they included in S/C package?

I understand that all those S/Cs delivers wheel 420 -450HP? Is there a way I could stay in range around 400? And also what effects will my current mods will have on supercharger?

And should I upgrade brakes? At least maybe aftermarket rotors and street pads?

AirborneCZ

*bump*

Krod07GT

I got my saleen for under 4400 and that will put you at around 400 at the flywheel, and around 360hp at the wheels. I added some stuff and will be around 420rwhp. These cars are good to around 450 at the wheels IF you get a good, safe tune. About the clutch, mine was gone the first day after I installed the S/C. You will also have to put your old pulley's back on because UDP's do the opposite for superchargers. I think all of the S/C kits are complete with everything you need, unless you specifically ask for a tuner kit.

AirborneCZ

thanks, and how about new flyhwheel and shorter piston rods?

Krod07GT

The flywheel isnt a must have, but if you have the money i'd say go for it. It frees up HP because it is less weight to rotate. As for the shorter piston rods, I havent heard much about shorter ones, most people just rebuild with forged rods, but if you are going to do that, you might as well get a crank and pistons and have everything forged. There are some other forums that have alot more technical information than this one if you want to learn more.

GPStang06

I certainly am not a guru with this but I was just at Steeda's main base down here in South Florida this past weekend. A friend of mine is adding an SC to his pony and he also had a question as to which to go with, mainly between the Steeda/Magnuson and the Vortech. One noticable thing the Steeda rep. did say beside the price was the Steeda/Magnuson SC was more of an instant power when you hit the gas as where the Vortech and alot of others need to build up some RPM's beofre they kick in (of course he could be just dropping the sales pitch). My Stang came with a Roush on it and I have no other work done to the drivetrain to support it however from what I understand after doing some reasearch the Roush chargers are toned way down, even further then what they advertise.

Hope this helps.

AirborneCZ

thx
I ask also mainly because my friend had Vortech installed into 05 GT and it blowed the engine after 20 miles.

he was able to get the warranty thou and second try he went with shorter rods and reinforced clutch and he is now doing high 12s to low 13s

xzo6

I think any S/C will bring an end to you motor eventually.Alot depends on how many times you go WOT.Previously I put a Vortech on a Honda S2000.I didn't have an issues with it but I knew of several others with the same setup that blew their engines in a relatively short period of time.The only thing I had added was a Stage 3 clutch.
The Roush S/C has relatively conservative tune.It's a decent amount of output.When or if I decided that there was a need to rebuild the motor I would be adding stronger internals,however at this time ,I only have had this car for 4000kms.No complaints r/t the S/C motor or drivetrain.
I think something may have been installed improperly for your friends car to blow an engine with only 20 miles on the odometer after it was installed.

GPStang06

XZ, do you plan on doing anything else external such as headers, exaust, cold air intake, tune, etc. etc.? I ask because I have not been able to get a straight answer out of Roush what will void their warranty on my drivetrain (3/36000 they cover after the S/C). I haven't really looked at the Stage 3 specs so you probably have other stuff in the engine from them but everything I have found that changed from the headers up into the engine voids it, even if you add Roush parts from an autorized dealer. I believe changing the exuast minus the headers is OK but I have been unable to get a clear answer as of yet.

My car is basically the same internal setup as their 427R without the body kit and wheels.

For the OP, more information along with what XZ has said, the Steeda rep. I sat with also explained that depending on how the S/C is tuned you will want/need to change other stuff out so you don't rip the engine out of the car. I would imagine some of the others you listed you would need to be careful on the install and tune. My friend and I are lucky as we have Steeda right here to do all the work. I am so tempted to have them tune mine as even with the Roush S/C I am only putting around 350 HP to the street (have to keep reminding myself this is my everyday car.....for now)

BlackPhantomGT

It's all about the tune! check the other forum.