CrazyAl

I can't see how there would be a problem with the bottle jack. I did it on every set I installed and it's really simple.

limer06stang

alright well i just got the headers in today from SLP and after reading their directions they claim you don't need to lift the motor at all just remove the steering column bolt on the drivers side and let that hang loose and also the dipstick tube and dipstick and remove the studs form the cross brace and flip them around for additional clearance for the new headers....looks easy and straighforward that is pretty much what i thought i would have to do after looking at the engine pretty thoroughly today....well it'll probably be another week or two before the headers go on cause i have to install them in a friends garage but i'm looking forward to the sound and gained hp

Haulupki

Not all headers will fit the same of coarse. But when removing the stock maniflod some of the lower studs are hard to get at. Raising the engine and removing the motor mount bracket gives you easier acsess to that area. Plus the headers will slide in easier (less scratchs if your headers are coated). I just used a bottle jack under the right and left tabs on the tranny bell housing. Simply put if you feel that anything is in your way just remove it. Also a couple socket driver extentions and a universal/wobbly 13MM socket helps when your working from underneath the vehicle.

limer06stang

yeah i'm going to go to sears and get a few more nessary tools, thanks for all of you input though

spdbrake

I used Mr. Gasket laminated steel gaskets PN# MRG-7558
$20 bucks thru Summit. (Well worh the $ since the gaskets that come with headers are usually junk)

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...=+115&y=5&x=17

Also switched to Prothane engine mounts (got it apart already so might as well)
around $102 at Summit.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...&DDS=1&N=700+0

Lastly I used Stainless Breslin locking bolts instead of the supplied ones.
They never loosen, and are much easier to use than Stage-8 bolts (Stage-8 scratch the headers where they contact)
Be sure to use anti-seize on the threads if you're using the Stainless or Black oxide bolt (no matter whose brand) so they don't Gall (F.U. your heads) when removed down the road.
PN 608-027 around $85.00 at Jegs.com (Not listed on the site you have to call them in.)



[IMG]local://upfiles/52139/9224FE3F25FA429A827F113D6B8E3317.jpg[/IMG]

Haulupki

I like those locking bolts! I was curious as to how tight I should be making the header bolts. I really don't know how a torque wrench can be used in this application. I can't see it being used on the lower bolts correctly. I just went with the feel, good and tight but not like Magilla Guerilla [:@] tight. I'd rather them come loose than screw up the threads down the road. If anybody has specs on this I would appreciate it. I didn't run it yet with the headers on. So its no big deal to go and redo for me. Just another excuse to open the hood

spdbrake

I used two of of the old studs just to sit the headers on when pushing them up from the bottom of the car, and so they would not fall while I got to the top side.
A light coat of Red Hitemp RTV is good for the gasket-head side to keep the gasket it from falling or walking

20-25ft lbs
Which is about all you can get with just a standard boxend wrench.
zig-zig the pattern twice across all the bolts then the final torq in any pattern.
If you you the Breslins you don't have to go back and retorq (after they heat and cool once which is standard on headers).
Plus you can leave the engine mounts OFF (engine side not the frame mounts) to give Mucho better acccess to the header bolts.
Be sure and support the engine when removing the mounts, and be sure to use Blue (mid-strength) locktite on the mount bolts when done.

The hardest thing is unplugging the fwd o2 sensors (@*&^%$!!) The cannon plugs are above the tranny bellhousing @ the firewall.
Getting your hand in there is painful if you have large forearms, I finally sprayed my arms with WD-40 but lost alot skin and hair removing my arm from each side on the damn heat shields.
If you are turning OFF the aft o2 sensors with a Tuner there is no reason to screw them into the bungs on the headers since they obstruct flow and serve no purpose.
I bought 18mm Sparkplug anti-foulers (sparkplug extensions found in the "HELP" parts area of any auto parts store) and welded the center holes on them shut. That gave me removable plugs for the Dyno sessions, or wideband tester.


I've run my Hookers for about 65K mi so far and no leaks or issues.

Haulupki

That torque spec sounds about right with what I did. Basically as tight as I can get it with a standard box wrench with no grunting. I finally got enough time to finish my Kooks LT's install. so far I like it. The fit is right on and the header flange is nice and burly around 3/8 thick.(should never warp or leak.) Sounds fairly stock until about 3000rpm's then it comes alive. I got the catted x pipe with it and kept the stock axle backs. The best thing for me was it brought my boost back down to 9-10 psi. since I put the 3.2 pulley on the gauge would max out well over 10. With the stock exhaust and Saleen 98mm mass air intake and a "dyno" tune it pulled 445 rwhp and 429 rwtq. Since then I put on the JDM mass air and "tune" plus the kooks headers. Now I'm really curious as to what it will dyno at. Its gotta be breathing much more easily.

scramblr

I'm going to use the bolts provided by Kook, however, I don't have antisieze for the bolts. Is it crucial to have it? I'm in Germany, so it's not like I can run to an Autozone and pick some up...

Haulupki

The anti seize is nice but not critical. The stock studs came out easily and they did not have any lube on them. As long as you start all of the bolts by hand you'll be fine. The biggest problem with aluminum threads is the first thread can get damaged easily by the bolt if your sloppy with it.