modpower

I just installed a set of livernois stage 2 heads and a set of stage 3 comp cams, i got lakewood lowers, rear wing delete, front swaybar delete, spare and jack (out), steeda ultralite springs, hurst shifter,motive390 gear, bbk tuned headers, off road x-pipe with flowmaster aft axe, k&n mass air cold air, 93 oct pred tune, FMPP charge motion plates, and i ran 12.17 @ 111 then backed it up with 12.20 @ 113N/A. on stock tires with1.94 60ft's@ the worst track in the USA: Bristol tenn.The Car screamedout 319hp and 322tq before the heads and cams and after made 367hp and 370tq. With loads of power above 5,500...I got a buddy that said i maybe could have dipped into the high 11's with 4.30's. Is this true? the only reason i got the 3.90 is cause i go to florida on a average of 8 to 9 times a year that's 13 hours away @ speed limit.Not to mention highway driving daily. I also think my wife is getting me a set of Weld rodlites, or bogart d-10s within the next few weeks. Any advice on tire size that would help with the gear and still fill the rear fender i'll be on 555nittos, my car is dropped 1.25 in the back... Oh yea i think the bogartsare 16's and the welds are 15's i know the price for the welds, but i'm not sure about the bogarts price anyone know? Please help...oh yeah, any guesstamations onwhat a 100shot with nitto's would do for my et's?

2oo5stang

I would definitely get some drag radials or some slicks, that right there should get you alot lower 60'(doing great on stock tires) and get you a high 11 right there.

CrazyAl

Good tires area must.

Lightweight 1-pc driveshaft will knock about 0.2 off your time.

Other suspension mods that will greatly impove your launch:
stiffer rear sway bar
D-spec shocks (run softer in the front and firm out back)
LCA relocation brackets (AKA anti-squat brackets) and run a bit more aggressive instant center (this is SUPER MANDATORY for good launches if you are lowering the car)

4.10s are fine on the highway. I have 4.30s in my car, and with my larger rear tires that works out about 4.15. I still get 25 MPG hwy.

spyder7724

port match the factory intake and install a shelby t/b with spacer from JDM. i just did this on mine no results yetbut should be worth a few more hp.
if you get a driveshaft and some drag wheels/tires you will no doubt run 11's

modpower

Thanks man i wish i had some better tires the car really didn't want to hook untile midway through 2nd, this seems like a great forrum, i am new to the later models myself i have owned a 99 for a while but didn't keep it long, i mostly have always been a fox guy, on those cars(fox body's) inever used the anti sqauting kit,but whatever helps 60's...i was still looking for some guidancewith thewheels, i reallylike the bogart d-10 but i don't know the price someone help out if they can, ialso like theweld rodlites( i know the price on the welds)also what size nitto do you guys think would still look good in the fender well but help with the gear some. i am getting the 10wide wheels for the back.Anyone heard of the spyder driveshaft(homeade) jsut wondering if anyone had one for sale? Or are there any group buys going on right now?

modpower

Just jk about the driveshaft, i wish i had one, the other ones are expensive and plus i heard that a lot of them vibrate really bad... Which one is the best, or cheapest? Thanks for any input.

modpower

crazy al, where is the best place to buy those brackets and how much do they run? And is a upper control arm like the steeda or metco a good buy? If so which company is the best to buy from? Crazy al educate me some on that aggressive instant center thing. I would love to be able to get some 1.6's on nittos in the future, any help is appreciated.

cfr865

I have the coastline d/s from Tillman speed, no vibration at all.

modular81

Are you running the canned predator 93oct tune with heads and cams, if so there'sprobably alot rwhp to be gained from a good dyno tune. Your 60ft on the stock tires is pretty good, but a set et street and a good hard launch will knock .2 off that 60ft which results in .3-.4 on the 1/4mile. 11's are definately in the near future you.

CrazyAl

1-pc driveshafts are just fine. I am running one with zero vibration, as are many others on this forum. Anyone that has one and also has vibration either got a shoddy driveshaft that wasn't properly balanced or they have their pinion angle set wrong.

UCA reloc brackets are available from various vendors. I would buy either the BMR or the Steedas. Have them welded in for maximum durability.

UCA is a good buy too, but not as important as the other things I mentioned. If you do get one, I would avoid Steeda (crap quality)and Metco (clunks). The BMR one with the spherical bearing is the King of all UCAs.

Instant center information:

https://mustangforums.com/m_2727670/tm.htm