Driveshaft decision to make
#1
Driveshaft decision to make
I'm getting some work done to my 07 GT. DSS stroker engine, Whipple HO SC, Kooks LT Exhaust, Spec clutch, BMR handling pak 1. I'm looking for a single piece driveshaft that will handle the hp/tq. Any suggestions. Dynotech quoted me a good deal on theirs, but need a lot of measurements which I am sure I don't want to screw up. Any suggestions from you guys would be appreciated.
#5
RE: Driveshaft decision to make
I am a fan of the spyder...but i dont know if it will be able to support the power you are going to have...
You might have to look at a carbon fiber one...or a one piece steel...just cause you're gonna have some mean power, especially if you run big boost, which i assume is what your planning with the stroker kit...
You might have to look at a carbon fiber one...or a one piece steel...just cause you're gonna have some mean power, especially if you run big boost, which i assume is what your planning with the stroker kit...
#7
RE: Driveshaft decision to make
mine has been proven to hold up behind 500+rwhp manual trans drag cars with slicks launching at 5000rpms + If you have more than 700hp and plan on drag racing(hard launches) then you really need to upgrade the transmission to something stronger which then will require a different driveshaft (with an older style slip-yoke instead of the slip-joint).
Mine use the same type materials that others claim will withstand 900hp+.
6061 T6 aluminum tubing .110" thick and spicer 13 series ujoints.
they will withstand more than the rest of the stock drivetrain.
I always recommend the use of front and rear saftey loops mainly because they are required by NHRA and because our fuel tank surrounds the driveshaft which may cause a slight problem if you did experience a failure.
Mine use the same type materials that others claim will withstand 900hp+.
6061 T6 aluminum tubing .110" thick and spicer 13 series ujoints.
they will withstand more than the rest of the stock drivetrain.
I always recommend the use of front and rear saftey loops mainly because they are required by NHRA and because our fuel tank surrounds the driveshaft which may cause a slight problem if you did experience a failure.
#9
RE: Driveshaft decision to make
ORIGINAL: spyder7724
mine has been proven to hold up behind 500+rwhp manual trans drag cars with slicks launching at 5000rpms + If you have more than 700hp and plan on drag racing(hard launches) then you really need to upgrade the transmission to something stronger which then will require a different driveshaft (with an older style slip-yoke instead of the slip-joint).
Mine use the same type materials that others claim will withstand 900hp+.
6061 T6 aluminum tubing .110" thick and spicer 13 series ujoints.
they will withstand more than the rest of the stock drivetrain.
I always recommend the use of front and rear saftey loops mainly because they are required by NHRA and because our fuel tank surrounds the driveshaft which may cause a slight problem if you did experience a failure.
mine has been proven to hold up behind 500+rwhp manual trans drag cars with slicks launching at 5000rpms + If you have more than 700hp and plan on drag racing(hard launches) then you really need to upgrade the transmission to something stronger which then will require a different driveshaft (with an older style slip-yoke instead of the slip-joint).
Mine use the same type materials that others claim will withstand 900hp+.
6061 T6 aluminum tubing .110" thick and spicer 13 series ujoints.
they will withstand more than the rest of the stock drivetrain.
I always recommend the use of front and rear saftey loops mainly because they are required by NHRA and because our fuel tank surrounds the driveshaft which may cause a slight problem if you did experience a failure.
Richard