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Old 07-19-2009, 01:21 AM
  #31  
rex7010
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Originally Posted by dolint95
what would be the cheapest way out to make it safe? A forged rotating assembly from livernois? I want to get better internals anyways because I want to really put the boost to it and make some power without having to worry about throwing a rod through the side of the block
well a forged block would for sure be the answer.. but why go there unless you have too..????

killbee has some VERY GOOD info IMHO..!!!!

myself.. I am going to get this and be happy with it..

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...injected.shtml

400 RWHP.. pretty good numbers for a sleeper street car..!!! ( key point.. sleeper car ) no loud exhast.. looks 100% bone stock except for a hood scoop and some Roush rear window louvers... ah.. the corvette and Cobra guys will just love me as I pass them by..!!! lol

after talking with MY guy.. ( he has been in the Ford racing business for over 40 years. ) best safe and bang for the buck S/C out there.. just his advice to me.. but I am going to get it within the next 2 or 3 weeks ..!!!! ;-)

and I am going to spend the money and let him install and do the dyno tune.. even though I know for a fact I could install that S/C NO PROBLEM..!!!!

just my .02 on the subject..!!!!
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Old 07-19-2009, 01:37 PM
  #32  
cfr865
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Originally Posted by dolint95
How could you be so ignorant to make a comment like that? I mean I was just wondering...? If you had any idea what tuning was really about than you would have opted out that statement. Go to jannettyracing.com Ted has worked with SCT tuning since they started, back when they were known as SuperChips. No one knows how to tune a mustang any better than him. I sat there and watched him dyno tune my car and go through a million different tables and map out his own tune, it was seriously incredible. If he hasn't tuned 500 mustangs safely, than he hasn't tuned any. Bottom line is that when you combo all the factors (a/f, timing, etc..) just right and then keep the oil and fuel pressure stable between +/- 0.5, you create a SAFE monster. You keep adding timing til you trigger the knock sensor, and then back it off one degree. Save for a new block? Don't believe I will be doing that. Kooks headers are actually next and then suspension...lord knows I need it. But if you check my album, all the number are on three consecutive sheets, showing the a/f and a variety of psi along with the torque and hp readings
All I was trying to do is give a liitle friendly advice, and you call me ignorant. After reading the other post on here it seems that most everyone agress with me including you.
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Old 07-19-2009, 02:39 PM
  #33  
dolint95
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no i don't agree. the car runs A++++ I was just wondering what the cheapest way out was to be able to run even more boost without throwing any red flags
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Old 07-19-2009, 04:04 PM
  #34  
stealth_GT
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Originally Posted by rex7010
well a forged block would for sure be the answer.. but why go there unless you have too..????

killbee has some VERY GOOD info IMHO..!!!!

myself.. I am going to get this and be happy with it..

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...injected.shtml

400 RWHP.. pretty good numbers for a sleeper street car..!!! ( key point.. sleeper car ) no loud exhast.. looks 100% bone stock except for a hood scoop and some Roush rear window louvers... ah.. the corvette and Cobra guys will just love me as I pass them by..!!! lol

after talking with MY guy.. ( he has been in the Ford racing business for over 40 years. ) best safe and bang for the buck S/C out there.. just his advice to me.. but I am going to get it within the next 2 or 3 weeks ..!!!! ;-)

and I am going to spend the money and let him install and do the dyno tune.. even though I know for a fact I could install that S/C NO PROBLEM..!!!!

just my .02 on the subject..!!!!

.. you could get 400whp easily with the Brenspeed V3 Vortech non-intercooled kit and save money as well.

Just sayin'...
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