How to reach 550 hp
#11
I'm looking at the Kenne Bell stage 2, it's $6300 and puts you at 522whp on 9psi. that's with a 100% bone stock engine except for swapping in an electric water pump and stock exhaust. they say the pump is about 20whp. their kits are great and come with a tune and everything. all you need to buy is some fluids.
Don't belive everything you read on thier site they are perfect world numbers probably running on race gas, with more timing in it than you would want to run on the street.
Real world (93 octane numbers)
2.6L 8 psi 456whp/433wtq
2.6L 10 psi 468whp/450wtq
2.6L 12psi 510whp/480tq (bent rod in a week)
2.6L stage 2 with Kenne Bell 130mm throttle body
14psi 525whp/500tq dynoed on a very hot day
These are real world numbers
Not Wally World numbers
#12
turbos are more effecient, very expensive, if you go supercharger, your gunna want it intercooled, and don't forget about fuel delivery, injectors, fuel pump, fuel rails etc. going to want to have Upper and lower control arms, subframe connectors wouldn't hurt. i'm in the same boat as you, building a mean machine, i just got a procharger p1sc, and working many hours to make everything prepped to blow. doing a full engine on the side as well, forged pistons and rods, probably go dished pistons, can always port and polish heads/intake, cams always give that nice lope sound, but dont go over board with a blower if you decide on one.
#13
#14
going to want to have Upper and lower control arms, subframe connectors wouldn't hurt.
#16
Dandy guys! Thanks for coming up with these suggestions! Right my goal is 550hp at the engine, that should do it for me I\m sure.. Sounds like I should ditch the turbo and focus on the Whipple and Kenne Bell Superchargers. I will talk to my dealer about it, we have a local ford dealer that has done a lot of cars over the last few years. See what they recommend and decide from there. I read somewhere (probably in Mustang 5.0 mag) that if you are going higher than 460 hp you will need to modify engine internals. Not sure if those 460 hp were at the wheels or at the engine though...
#18
I'm at 550rwhp right now and was previously at 510whp before my motor...to do it safe you gotta do it right and doin it right ain't cheap. haha
here is just a rough outline of what it took me
Paxton 2200 kit with install - $6800
Mcleod RST-$700
J&M billet LCA's w/relo brackets, installed- $500
MMR mod 800, kotzur racing stage 2 ported heads with competition valve job, BBR stage 2 cams, odds and ends and tuning $8500
$16,500
Not trying to be discouraging but it really does end up costing alot in the end if your actually going to run the car hard and not just put it around town...just from first hand experience...blowing a motor sucks haha. It has its advantages though...the only thing keeping me from 700whp now is an 8 rib kit, bigger injectors and a dual boost a pump, than this thing is really gonna be fun
here is just a rough outline of what it took me
Paxton 2200 kit with install - $6800
Mcleod RST-$700
J&M billet LCA's w/relo brackets, installed- $500
MMR mod 800, kotzur racing stage 2 ported heads with competition valve job, BBR stage 2 cams, odds and ends and tuning $8500
$16,500
Not trying to be discouraging but it really does end up costing alot in the end if your actually going to run the car hard and not just put it around town...just from first hand experience...blowing a motor sucks haha. It has its advantages though...the only thing keeping me from 700whp now is an 8 rib kit, bigger injectors and a dual boost a pump, than this thing is really gonna be fun
Last edited by paydirt; 08-26-2009 at 12:04 AM.
#19
I'll kill them....
~450 rwhp is the "magical" number people have found. It's not an exact science but in and around that level of power rods start letting go at a much higher rate. The window for error in the A/F becomes much smaller as you approach and exceed that power, RPMs become a "how far will it go until it.....goes" etc. As long as you have someone who knows what they're doing and shoot for 11.0 as your A/F as any good tuner would you'll be OK.
If you're seriously concerned about blowing your motor I can show you a way to have boost on tap like a bottle. Give a turbo a boost controller and watch as you cruise around on 6 psi daily, only making ~380 rwhp but can turn it up to 10 psi with the press of a button. Having the power of a stock C6 on hand (somehow I pulled away from one on 6 psi a couple times) is enough for me. I don't need enough power to get my rear end loose to just drive on the highway. It's my most conservative tune and it serves me well. Don't knock the turbo for a car that you'd like to DD. I can drive without boost wherever I go, it drives like stock, just a little loud. At the same time I can drive it to and from the strip and I'm still running enough power to have an 11 second car (if I did quite a bit of extra work on the cars suspension, weight, tires, etc.)