Motor Build-up 3V 4.6L
09-23-2009, 08:10 AM
#1
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Motor Build-up 3V 4.6L
Looking for some insight from others that have went this path. Looking for a setup that will support 550WHP and torque on a super or turbocharged setup. Due to limited space to work on the car looking for either something that can be bought preassembled or the parts you guys would use for your build up. Stock block? Aftermarket block? Heads?
If you guys were going to put $5K into a motor what would you do?
If you guys were going to put $5K into a motor what would you do?
09-23-2009, 09:04 PM
#2
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10-07-2009, 11:29 PM
#4
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im actually thinking about heading down that path myself, i mean ive found built short block for a little over 4k but just like BruceH i've kind of found it cheaper just to build my own, im only question is where would be best to get my heads ported? i saw a add in muscle mustangs and fast fords where u send ur heads to fox lake and they will "cnc port your castings, mutli angle vavle job, clean and grind stock valves, flow test , and reassemble w/your stock cams" for 1,500+. does that sound like a good bang for the buck? i mean obviously im not gonna use stock cams so it may even be a little cheaper, but i havent seen any other places that are offering the same deal. i wish trick flow came out with a new head for the 3v like they did the 2v lol
10-08-2009, 10:38 PM
#5
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 40
I have 3 2005+ Mustangs all with built motors. My daily has an SHM short block in it but that is serious coin. Also fully ported heads with Ferrea valve train and Comp Cams. To top it off, a PAIR of Garrett GT30 turbos.
In my convertible, I have the new FRPP shotblock in it. Very cost effective and will handle 600 wheel. My car makes 570 wheel and so far its running great, no oil consumption or noises of any kind. I am running the low compression 8.7:1 version of their engine with stock cylinder heads, throttle body, JBA shorties, and stock cams with an ATI procharger.
There are a bunch of options for you but the FRPP is probably the way to go. I could sell you a custom shortblock and make more money, but for what you are looking for, go FRPP $4500 or less depending on where you buy it outright no exchange and shipped!! All forged internals, crank, rods, pistons. For a bit more power, port the heads but keep stock cams for perfect drivability. Just make sure to use ARP HEAD STUDS and have a good shop clean up the heads and mil them for MLS head gaskets.
Give us a call if you need any info or pricing. We're always happy to give free advice since we've done exactly what you're looking to do.
-Eric
In my convertible, I have the new FRPP shotblock in it. Very cost effective and will handle 600 wheel. My car makes 570 wheel and so far its running great, no oil consumption or noises of any kind. I am running the low compression 8.7:1 version of their engine with stock cylinder heads, throttle body, JBA shorties, and stock cams with an ATI procharger.
There are a bunch of options for you but the FRPP is probably the way to go. I could sell you a custom shortblock and make more money, but for what you are looking for, go FRPP $4500 or less depending on where you buy it outright no exchange and shipped!! All forged internals, crank, rods, pistons. For a bit more power, port the heads but keep stock cams for perfect drivability. Just make sure to use ARP HEAD STUDS and have a good shop clean up the heads and mil them for MLS head gaskets.
Give us a call if you need any info or pricing. We're always happy to give free advice since we've done exactly what you're looking to do.
-Eric
10-08-2009, 10:43 PM
#6
Former Sponsor
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 40
As for porting your heads, It will always make more power but be careful where you send them. Fox lake and Patriot both do amazing jobs. if you are going to use cams, get valve springs and retainers! The higher lift from after market cams will cause fatigue on the stock valve train and you WILL break something. Also, it took trick Flow 10 years to get their 2V head out, I wouldn't hold your breath for a 3V head. Also, flow testing the 3V head shows that it can flow 92% what a 4V head can flow (at 35lbs less per side) and can make over 900 wheel on the proper engine set up. Why get a new casting???
10-29-2009, 10:11 PM
#7
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 55
Good info...wasn't sure what our blocks will hold. I have the '06 version, but same thing. I was debating an N/A motor, but I have NO WAY of building it myself since my current home has no garage (thus all my maintenance is at a hobby shop or in the parking lot). I would LOVE to build an N/A motor, but cost-effectiveness is leaning me toward F/I. I've heard many opinions on what the stock internals will hold SAFELY. I've heard from 400-550 (I highly doubt the latter). Not to thread jack at all here, but should I go blown, keep stock internals, and upgrade heads/cams, what would you suggest? Should I keep a stock cam? Keep in mind I'm keeping the stock driveline in, with only the DSS 900hp driveshaft and a girdled rearend. My guess would be keeping it around 400 or so whp until I can beef up the rear with 31 spline axles, pumpkin, and maybe a clutch upgrade? Maybe picking up a set of used/salvage yard OEM heads to send in would be an idea...maybe adding blower cams to them...this is my DD. Thanks.
10-30-2009, 12:44 AM
#8
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10-30-2009, 03:01 AM
#9
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10-30-2009, 02:29 PM
#10
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