Nitrous Plans in 2010
#1
Nitrous Plans in 2010
I wanted to get some feed back from the group on my plans for running the car at the track in 2010. My goal is simple improve my 2009 results, 13.4@105 to a 12.X@110 - 112mph for 2010. Budget for this project will be $3,000.
Current Mods:
C&L Intake, HP Tuners Custom Tune by myself, Pypes Non Catted X.
Planned Mods:
SPEC Clutch Stage 2+- 660ft lbs of torque (Will do when stocker lets go)
Nitrous Kit 75 - 175
Bottle Heater
RPM Switch
Purge
Plugs 1 range colder
Weight reduction:
Lightweight Battery
BMR Radiator Support
Drive Shaft Dynotech
Seat deletes
Spare removal
Gears 4:10
Drag Radials
Plan on shooting 100 shot possible 125 however I've been told 125 shot cars require a bit more work doing plug checks at the track to ensure all 8 are burning even. I want the car to be as maintenance free as possible. My real question is on the nitrous kits I have seen a wide variation in design and price. Zex is very affordable but differs from NX in the delivery of fuel and nitrous(has a TB mounted plate system vs. intake nossle). Is there a definite advantage to the NX over Zex the in terms of quality that makes the $300 price increase worth it? Based on what I read my goal is very obtainable just trying to sift through the web of information on which kit works and why.
Any help appreciated.
Current Mods:
C&L Intake, HP Tuners Custom Tune by myself, Pypes Non Catted X.
Planned Mods:
SPEC Clutch Stage 2+- 660ft lbs of torque (Will do when stocker lets go)
Nitrous Kit 75 - 175
Bottle Heater
RPM Switch
Purge
Plugs 1 range colder
Weight reduction:
Lightweight Battery
BMR Radiator Support
Drive Shaft Dynotech
Seat deletes
Spare removal
Gears 4:10
Drag Radials
Plan on shooting 100 shot possible 125 however I've been told 125 shot cars require a bit more work doing plug checks at the track to ensure all 8 are burning even. I want the car to be as maintenance free as possible. My real question is on the nitrous kits I have seen a wide variation in design and price. Zex is very affordable but differs from NX in the delivery of fuel and nitrous(has a TB mounted plate system vs. intake nossle). Is there a definite advantage to the NX over Zex the in terms of quality that makes the $300 price increase worth it? Based on what I read my goal is very obtainable just trying to sift through the web of information on which kit works and why.
Any help appreciated.
#3
I'd think it might take some slicks and skinny's to get me into the 11's and that 125 shot. If I can get about 200lbs of weight out of the car that would help considering RWHP at 125 would be in that 390 range maybe a bit more based on what I have read. I was hoping someone with either of the nitrous kits mentioned could explain why one might be better than the other or why they picked the one they did.
#4
my performance shop says that zex stuff always breaks, they refuse to install it. he likes the NOS kits i think... you dont have to do every part by one manufacturer though, you can buy a generic kit which has bottle and lines and solenoids, then purchase your other parts peicemeal, like if you want rpm/window/programmable modules, bottle heaters, etc.... overall, id reccomend consulting a performance shop that has done nitrous installs before for advice.
#5
I had the ZEX kit and it worked great. As far as the shop saying their stuff always breaks, it probably becasue they are on wholesale direct witht the manufacutre.
If you want nitrous I would get the following:
SPEC Clutch Stage 2+- 660ft lbs of torque (Will do when stocker lets go)
Do not get this clutch! Research the nightmarea associated with it and go from there. The Spec 2 and 3/3+ seems to work great, but not the 2+.
Nitrous Kit 75 - 175. I like the plate system better.
Bottle Heater Had one, make sure you hard wire it instead of plugging it in to your cigaretee lighter.
RPM Switch. Never had one.
Purge
Plugs 1 range colder
I wouldn'y mess with my battery or radiator support as I beleive it gets rid of your sway bar. You can just unhook one side of your sway bar when you get to the track to get better weight transfer off the line.
Weight reduction:
Lightweight Battery
BMR Radiator Support
Drive Shaft Dynotech
Seat deletes
Spare removal
With a JLT2 CAI, 4.10s and DR's I went 12.4@111.25. Stock clutch held for a really long time, even after turbo installation.
Gears 4:10
Drag Radials
If you want nitrous I would get the following:
SPEC Clutch Stage 2+- 660ft lbs of torque (Will do when stocker lets go)
Do not get this clutch! Research the nightmarea associated with it and go from there. The Spec 2 and 3/3+ seems to work great, but not the 2+.
Nitrous Kit 75 - 175. I like the plate system better.
Bottle Heater Had one, make sure you hard wire it instead of plugging it in to your cigaretee lighter.
RPM Switch. Never had one.
Purge
Plugs 1 range colder
I wouldn'y mess with my battery or radiator support as I beleive it gets rid of your sway bar. You can just unhook one side of your sway bar when you get to the track to get better weight transfer off the line.
Weight reduction:
Lightweight Battery
BMR Radiator Support
Drive Shaft Dynotech
Seat deletes
Spare removal
With a JLT2 CAI, 4.10s and DR's I went 12.4@111.25. Stock clutch held for a really long time, even after turbo installation.
Gears 4:10
Drag Radials
#6
i was going nitro a couple of years ago, decided against it for alot of reasons, mainly it was because the cost associated, I was only 2K away from getting a supercharger. So I held off spending the money on the NOS and now have 5K saved up for blower....
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