BruceH

I've started my 6060 upgrade. Removed the stock 3650 tonight. Thought I'd share a few pics.

First thing that has to be done is remove the battery and tray for access.



The exhaust fasteners need to be sprayed with penetrating oil and left to sit for a half hour or so. I used PB Blaster.



Removing the top two bellhousing fasteners isn't as hard as it looks. My hands are good sized and I can get them behind the blower to get at those bolts.





I took all the bellhousing bolts out and am ready to get the jack in to support the transmission. The crossmember is still bolted up making sure everything stays in place until I'm ready.



I tried something different this time. I had read about rotating the tranny to get that annoying boss on the bellhousing to clear the tunnel without having to lower the k member and tilt the motor. It worked.





There you have it. Transmission removed.



Now I'm waiting for my 6060 to show up. Putting in a new McLeod flywheel and RST. May end up with 4.10's again too. I'll have to see how the 2.97 first gear feels with my 3.55's.

More to come...

hammeron

you don't mess around, that would have taken me a week...if i ever get the chance, i'll try your tranny clocking manuever.

stealth_GT

Great pics. I always get so involved during projects, I don't end up taking pics.. its a shame, I would have gotten some great shots lol

bigray327

I'm loving my 6060/McLeod/4.10:1 combo. Hope you do, too. Good luck.

Simon1

YOu will be able to do 60+ in 1st gear with the 3.55s in the 6060.

Might as well order the 4.10s now, I think 4.56s are equivilant to a 4.10 3560 tranny.

BruceH

3650 gears: 1-3.38, 2-2.00, 3-1.32, 4-1.00

6060 gears: 1-2.97, 2-1.78, 3-1.30, 4-1.00

If I change out gears they will be 4.10. I keep thinking that stock GT500's came with 3.31 and I have 3.55 plus more power so maybe it will be ok.

red96v6

You made it look so easy... How long did it take you?

BruceH

I removed the exhaust and driveline one evening and finished the next evening. All together it was about 4 hours. I took the driveline completely out and the rear cap bolts that attach the u-joint to the adapter were a pain. They had been red loctited and took some extra time and patience.

This is the 4th time I've removed the transmission so I'm pretty much through the learning curve. Most of what I posted has been posted by others at some time (ref Hammeron's RST write up as a great source of info). I'm just documenting to keep passing the information along and make it easier for the next person.

Here's how it looks now. Put the new flywheel and clutch in today. Still waiting on the transmission. I also got on the pre-order list for the new MGW GT500 shifter that's coming out in a few weeks.

hammeron

looking really good! i can't tell if you installed the dowel pins.....i left mine
out this last time around. is that a mcleod billet steel unit? i would have given
you mine for all the help you've given me.

BruceH

I couldn't install dowels. The floater ring wasn't drilled for the same pattern as the flywheel and yes, it is the McLeod billet steel. Didn't really matter since the floater is so light compared to a standard install where you have to get the pp and clutch lined up before bolting. The studs on the floater made attaching the pp easy too.

Now my question is why do you have a billet flywheel sitting around? Was there a problem with it? Never mind just remembered you have an 8 bolt now.