450whp or drag set up?
#12
winter temps supposedly kill centris right at the point of start up.. did not know that until it was too late.
)-:
#13
(MT ET streets 26x11.5x17s)
mods are;
Vortech V3 non-intercooled 8 psi 380-385whp
FRPP 4.10s
delete plates
dual 3 inch cut outs ( they let me power brake to 2500 rpm, no joke. Closed, only 2k rpm)
JBA High heat coated shorty headers
*Shaker 1000 sub-woofer/amps, spare tire/jack removed (-80/85 lbs)
low/mid 12s??
Last edited by stealth_GT; 07-08-2010 at 04:21 PM.
#14
A good set of tires will make difference in your ET than adding a bunch of HP.
I replied to your post in SS.
I would talk to Vortech directly about the cold issue. See what they say. They may have an idea on how to help.
I replied to your post in SS.
I would talk to Vortech directly about the cold issue. See what they say. They may have an idea on how to help.
#15
Vortech's tips consisted of tending to the blower like a sick baby the entire winter (heating pad, shop light on the blower over night, engine block heater etc.) They basically said, if I blow it up, they warned me and it's NOT going to be covered. I discovered all of this when I found the warning sheet conveniently tucked in an envelope at the bottom of the box. I did however contact Wolverine heating pads and working with them on a custom heating pad that goes around the base of the entire supercharger unit, plugged in to an auxiliary power outlet, connected via "on/off" switch in the cabin, so I can turn it on and off to heat the blower before I even start the motor. They are used to heat up to gallons of oil at a time, so 4 oz and a small supercharger unit should be okay lol.
It sucks, but it's the only way, other than swapping it out every winter. I can still go M90 and avoid all of this, but only at a large amount of money... I can get the heating pad, rig up a power source, go intercooler HO upgrade kit and be done
Living in Alaska sucks.. 6 months of winter, pure darkness, 18 hours. Summer, 21 hours of sunshine lol
#17
lol what (??)
...
well, spoke to Wolverine heating pads and looks like everything is a green light with their products. I still worry about heating pad failure, but it's a risk I'll have to take. Here is their response
Thanks for the inquiry. We have done some various types of heating similar to yours such as transmissions,
gear boxes, hydraulics, ATM machines (Bank of the West, Anchorage), etc. The smallest heater in our line
is the #4.5/50 watt, designed to heat very small engines, gear boxes, etc. Put it on the lowest part of the housing
and plug it in even at the start of your winter season. All the moving parts under the hood have to get to operating
temps and there is a great deal of "thermal shock" (cold to hot) temperature changes that take place, that's the
"cold start wear' that is the toughest on vehicles. You are on the right track but don't forget the engine, transmission,
and battery. All these need heat to eliminate the wear and tear from your winter extremes. The pad temperature
will reach into the 200+degrees F. The aluminum housing and oil in the unit will soak the heat out of the heater and
warm it very quickly. Remember to protect the engine by heating the oil in the bottom! Not the water on the top!
Heat rises. Let nature work for you. Thanks for choosing Wolverine.
Regards
Kevin Frank
Pres/Gm
Wolverine Heaters
Might work out for the Vortech after all... I just have to remember to heat up the blower 10 minutes before starting the motor.
...
well, spoke to Wolverine heating pads and looks like everything is a green light with their products. I still worry about heating pad failure, but it's a risk I'll have to take. Here is their response
Thanks for the inquiry. We have done some various types of heating similar to yours such as transmissions,
gear boxes, hydraulics, ATM machines (Bank of the West, Anchorage), etc. The smallest heater in our line
is the #4.5/50 watt, designed to heat very small engines, gear boxes, etc. Put it on the lowest part of the housing
and plug it in even at the start of your winter season. All the moving parts under the hood have to get to operating
temps and there is a great deal of "thermal shock" (cold to hot) temperature changes that take place, that's the
"cold start wear' that is the toughest on vehicles. You are on the right track but don't forget the engine, transmission,
and battery. All these need heat to eliminate the wear and tear from your winter extremes. The pad temperature
will reach into the 200+degrees F. The aluminum housing and oil in the unit will soak the heat out of the heater and
warm it very quickly. Remember to protect the engine by heating the oil in the bottom! Not the water on the top!
Heat rises. Let nature work for you. Thanks for choosing Wolverine.
Regards
Kevin Frank
Pres/Gm
Wolverine Heaters
Might work out for the Vortech after all... I just have to remember to heat up the blower 10 minutes before starting the motor.
#18
If you go to work at a sertain time int he mroning, I bet there is a way for the heater to turn on at a certain time and warm everything up.
Depending on the weather and the draw it will do, I would adjust the time it takes for the heater to heat up as much as possible. I would be concerned with the oil in the pan the most since it will immediately travel up to the blower, if the oil in the line is not almost frozen.
I still poo poo the M90. It's not a bad blower. It's a rather good piece of machinery. There are other positive displacment blowers that are much better.
Depending on the weather and the draw it will do, I would adjust the time it takes for the heater to heat up as much as possible. I would be concerned with the oil in the pan the most since it will immediately travel up to the blower, if the oil in the line is not almost frozen.
I still poo poo the M90. It's not a bad blower. It's a rather good piece of machinery. There are other positive displacment blowers that are much better.
#19
If you go to work at a sertain time int he mroning, I bet there is a way for the heater to turn on at a certain time and warm everything up.
Depending on the weather and the draw it will do, I would adjust the time it takes for the heater to heat up as much as possible. I would be concerned with the oil in the pan the most since it will immediately travel up to the blower, if the oil in the line is not almost frozen.
I still poo poo the M90. It's not a bad blower. It's a rather good piece of machinery. There are other positive displacment blowers that are much better.
Depending on the weather and the draw it will do, I would adjust the time it takes for the heater to heat up as much as possible. I would be concerned with the oil in the pan the most since it will immediately travel up to the blower, if the oil in the line is not almost frozen.
I still poo poo the M90. It's not a bad blower. It's a rather good piece of machinery. There are other positive displacment blowers that are much better.
I really have no other choice in superchargers, though if I really really really wanted to save up, I could go for the R2300 or the E-force, and just take off the vortech for the next two winters. Pretty confident I can still go very low 12s, if not a 12 flat with good tires and some more mods. Its really just brain storming at this point... I like the heating pad the most because I can just slap on an intercooler, tune for boost and be at 500whp lol
Done and done! It's a pain in the **** because who's to say it won't fail as I am idling at a light or parked at the movie theater... wth?!
#20
I saw a kit that was made to actually turn the motor on at a certain time in the morning to let the vehicle heat up because of cold weather and/or it was used for heating oil too. It was advertised for the diesel trucks (F350 type).
With 4.10s an auto and 450 rwhp, a good set of tires, the car will go mid 11's with a good DA.
With 4.10s an auto and 450 rwhp, a good set of tires, the car will go mid 11's with a good DA.