Adding supercharger kit... is there anything else I should have done when it's put in
07-26-2010, 02:01 PM
#11
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 42
I think 410's are too steep when running the 1/4 mile, at least they are if you run the stock diameter tire.
Don't you have to shift into 5th when running the 1/4?
I am pretty sure you'd top out at around 110 mph in 4th, and with your setup you should trap out faster then that.
Don't you have to shift into 5th when running the 1/4?
I am pretty sure you'd top out at around 110 mph in 4th, and with your setup you should trap out faster then that.
Being that my car is an auto with a tci ratchet shifter... in my curent setup it really woke it up around town.
I really can't say how it would be in a stick, but i'm doing 0-100 in 11 sec. and I still got about around 1000-1200rpm beofore it would shift into 5th.
Although, having said that... I gotta say that I agree with you that the 410's are a little high, but only because on the Highway I'm right at 3k doing 80mph.
If I had to do it over again I would have went with 373's.
07-26-2010, 04:12 PM
#12
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 42
Here is what I've done so far...
- 2007 GT – Auto -
-Mechanical Mod’s-
C&L cold air intake / Diablo Predator – dyno tune / Borla axle-back exhaust / Ford Racing 410-Ring & Pinion / & TCI Ratchet Shifter.
-Vortch HO Supercharger with Intercooler on order-
-Exterior Mod’s-
Street Scene body kit / 20” - (9-10) Staggered Stern Wheels / Side door & window louvers / & Custom Body and Door Stripes.
-Audo Mod’s-
8” JVC touch Screen / Hertz competition high energy series speakers all the way around + tweets & crossovers, powered by a Memphis A.B. M-Class 16-MC4.75 amp / Two Memphis M-Class 12” subs, powered by a Memphis D. M-Class 16-MC1.500 amp.
- 2007 GT – Auto -
-Mechanical Mod’s-
C&L cold air intake / Diablo Predator – dyno tune / Borla axle-back exhaust / Ford Racing 410-Ring & Pinion / & TCI Ratchet Shifter.
-Vortch HO Supercharger with Intercooler on order-
-Exterior Mod’s-
Street Scene body kit / 20” - (9-10) Staggered Stern Wheels / Side door & window louvers / & Custom Body and Door Stripes.
-Audo Mod’s-
8” JVC touch Screen / Hertz competition high energy series speakers all the way around + tweets & crossovers, powered by a Memphis A.B. M-Class 16-MC4.75 amp / Two Memphis M-Class 12” subs, powered by a Memphis D. M-Class 16-MC1.500 amp.
07-26-2010, 04:58 PM
#13
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: North Pole
Posts: 6,716
The Vortech with the right tune will give you more than the stock motor can handle 
So anything else is basically just building a quicker spool/throttle response.
Build the motor and you'll see another 100+ whp before having to build the trans up...
So anything else is basically just building a quicker spool/throttle response.
Build the motor and you'll see another 100+ whp before having to build the trans up...
07-27-2010, 09:45 AM
#17
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 462
If the shop doing the install can handle custom tuning, I would think about a throttle body and delete plates. Ported heads and cams can gain you another 30+ rwhp, but there is a lot of cost involved in that. Nothing else is going to do much for power other than more boost, but there are problems with that.
If you go much over 10 psi boost, you will run into potential problems with the stock internals. However, anything you do with the engine itself is going to jack the cost WAY up. A built short block assembly will cost you a minimum of $4k, and labor will be 4 digits without a doubt. Assuming you are around $6k for the supercharger, you will probably end up in the $11-12k range just for the supercharger and a built motor, and then you run into the other problem: traction.
For traction, you need to look at a few things. First, tire size. You mention you have a 10" wheel in back, but what tire do you have on it? 285? 295? 305? The wider you go, the better traction, and going from a 285 to a 305 will gain you almost 10% more rubber to the ground.. That is a substantial difference. A street drag radial would be better but finding one in a 305/20" is tough.. I think Nitto makes a 315/35/20 in a drag radial, and I have seen it fit with the right wheel.. if you start with a 285 and go to a 315 you gain almost 15% more rubber, which means more power to the ground.
Then you have suspension. Not much can be done here, but a slight improvement can be made for pretty cheap. Relocation brackets on the LCA's can change the geometry so your back end doesn't squat when you hit the gas. LCA's and an adjustable UCA with poly ends will offer less flex than the factory urethane bushings and keep your pinion angle as close to 0 degrees as possible under accelleration (set to about -4 degrees with the adj. upper). With wider tires and wheels, an adjustable panhard bar will allow you to center the rear end.
A k-member brace with torque arrestors can help prevent the drivetrain from rolling so much and transfer the power to the ground with a little less loss. Better engine mounts will help with that as well, and both are fairly easy to install.
The trans might need a little work as well. You said you have an auto, and from what I understand, the syncros can be a problem with those transmissions. I believe you can get a modification that will take care of it, but I am not sure exactly what it entails as I don't deal with the auto trans personally.
Those gears are a little short, and you will have a better driving experience with a taller gear. A 3.73 is great in my opinion, but even a 3.55 would be good with all that power. If you are at sea level, first and second gears are going to be a challenge to keep traction, even at 10 psi. If you live at 3-5k feet elevation, you will have far less power and it won't be as much of an issue. I am at about 4k elevation, so I am losing about 40 rwhp (dyno at 440, but dynos correct for elevation), but even so, 2nd gear tends to be as worthless as first with street tires (only have 255's in the rear) unless you like laying down 500 foot strips of rubber. At sea level, I would question whether 3rd gear would hold on the street, and that is with 3.73 gears.
Good luck with the install and enjoy your newfound power.
If you go much over 10 psi boost, you will run into potential problems with the stock internals. However, anything you do with the engine itself is going to jack the cost WAY up. A built short block assembly will cost you a minimum of $4k, and labor will be 4 digits without a doubt. Assuming you are around $6k for the supercharger, you will probably end up in the $11-12k range just for the supercharger and a built motor, and then you run into the other problem: traction.
For traction, you need to look at a few things. First, tire size. You mention you have a 10" wheel in back, but what tire do you have on it? 285? 295? 305? The wider you go, the better traction, and going from a 285 to a 305 will gain you almost 10% more rubber to the ground.. That is a substantial difference. A street drag radial would be better but finding one in a 305/20" is tough.. I think Nitto makes a 315/35/20 in a drag radial, and I have seen it fit with the right wheel.. if you start with a 285 and go to a 315 you gain almost 15% more rubber, which means more power to the ground.
Then you have suspension. Not much can be done here, but a slight improvement can be made for pretty cheap. Relocation brackets on the LCA's can change the geometry so your back end doesn't squat when you hit the gas. LCA's and an adjustable UCA with poly ends will offer less flex than the factory urethane bushings and keep your pinion angle as close to 0 degrees as possible under accelleration (set to about -4 degrees with the adj. upper). With wider tires and wheels, an adjustable panhard bar will allow you to center the rear end.
A k-member brace with torque arrestors can help prevent the drivetrain from rolling so much and transfer the power to the ground with a little less loss. Better engine mounts will help with that as well, and both are fairly easy to install.
The trans might need a little work as well. You said you have an auto, and from what I understand, the syncros can be a problem with those transmissions. I believe you can get a modification that will take care of it, but I am not sure exactly what it entails as I don't deal with the auto trans personally.
Those gears are a little short, and you will have a better driving experience with a taller gear. A 3.73 is great in my opinion, but even a 3.55 would be good with all that power. If you are at sea level, first and second gears are going to be a challenge to keep traction, even at 10 psi. If you live at 3-5k feet elevation, you will have far less power and it won't be as much of an issue. I am at about 4k elevation, so I am losing about 40 rwhp (dyno at 440, but dynos correct for elevation), but even so, 2nd gear tends to be as worthless as first with street tires (only have 255's in the rear) unless you like laying down 500 foot strips of rubber. At sea level, I would question whether 3rd gear would hold on the street, and that is with 3.73 gears.
Good luck with the install and enjoy your newfound power.
07-28-2010, 03:49 PM
#18
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 42
If the shop doing the install can handle custom tuning, I would think about a throttle body and delete plates. Ported heads and cams can gain you another 30+ rwhp, but there is a lot of cost involved in that. Nothing else is going to do much for power other than more boost, but there are problems with that.
If you go much over 10 psi boost, you will run into potential problems with the stock internals. However, anything you do with the engine itself is going to jack the cost WAY up. A built short block assembly will cost you a minimum of $4k, and labor will be 4 digits without a doubt. Assuming you are around $6k for the supercharger, you will probably end up in the $11-12k range just for the supercharger and a built motor, and then you run into the other problem: traction.
For traction, you need to look at a few things. First, tire size. You mention you have a 10" wheel in back, but what tire do you have on it? 285? 295? 305? The wider you go, the better traction, and going from a 285 to a 305 will gain you almost 10% more rubber to the ground.. That is a substantial difference. A street drag radial would be better but finding one in a 305/20" is tough.. I think Nitto makes a 315/35/20 in a drag radial, and I have seen it fit with the right wheel.. if you start with a 285 and go to a 315 you gain almost 15% more rubber, which means more power to the ground.
Then you have suspension. Not much can be done here, but a slight improvement can be made for pretty cheap. Relocation brackets on the LCA's can change the geometry so your back end doesn't squat when you hit the gas. LCA's and an adjustable UCA with poly ends will offer less flex than the factory urethane bushings and keep your pinion angle as close to 0 degrees as possible under accelleration (set to about -4 degrees with the adj. upper). With wider tires and wheels, an adjustable panhard bar will allow you to center the rear end.
A k-member brace with torque arrestors can help prevent the drivetrain from rolling so much and transfer the power to the ground with a little less loss. Better engine mounts will help with that as well, and both are fairly easy to install.
The trans might need a little work as well. You said you have an auto, and from what I understand, the syncros can be a problem with those transmissions. I believe you can get a modification that will take care of it, but I am not sure exactly what it entails as I don't deal with the auto trans personally.
Those gears are a little short, and you will have a better driving experience with a taller gear. A 3.73 is great in my opinion, but even a 3.55 would be good with all that power. If you are at sea level, first and second gears are going to be a challenge to keep traction, even at 10 psi. If you live at 3-5k feet elevation, you will have far less power and it won't be as much of an issue. I am at about 4k elevation, so I am losing about 40 rwhp (dyno at 440, but dynos correct for elevation), but even so, 2nd gear tends to be as worthless as first with street tires (only have 255's in the rear) unless you like laying down 500 foot strips of rubber. At sea level, I would question whether 3rd gear would hold on the street, and that is with 3.73 gears.
Good luck with the install and enjoy your newfound power.
If you go much over 10 psi boost, you will run into potential problems with the stock internals. However, anything you do with the engine itself is going to jack the cost WAY up. A built short block assembly will cost you a minimum of $4k, and labor will be 4 digits without a doubt. Assuming you are around $6k for the supercharger, you will probably end up in the $11-12k range just for the supercharger and a built motor, and then you run into the other problem: traction.
For traction, you need to look at a few things. First, tire size. You mention you have a 10" wheel in back, but what tire do you have on it? 285? 295? 305? The wider you go, the better traction, and going from a 285 to a 305 will gain you almost 10% more rubber to the ground.. That is a substantial difference. A street drag radial would be better but finding one in a 305/20" is tough.. I think Nitto makes a 315/35/20 in a drag radial, and I have seen it fit with the right wheel.. if you start with a 285 and go to a 315 you gain almost 15% more rubber, which means more power to the ground.
Then you have suspension. Not much can be done here, but a slight improvement can be made for pretty cheap. Relocation brackets on the LCA's can change the geometry so your back end doesn't squat when you hit the gas. LCA's and an adjustable UCA with poly ends will offer less flex than the factory urethane bushings and keep your pinion angle as close to 0 degrees as possible under accelleration (set to about -4 degrees with the adj. upper). With wider tires and wheels, an adjustable panhard bar will allow you to center the rear end.
A k-member brace with torque arrestors can help prevent the drivetrain from rolling so much and transfer the power to the ground with a little less loss. Better engine mounts will help with that as well, and both are fairly easy to install.
The trans might need a little work as well. You said you have an auto, and from what I understand, the syncros can be a problem with those transmissions. I believe you can get a modification that will take care of it, but I am not sure exactly what it entails as I don't deal with the auto trans personally.
Those gears are a little short, and you will have a better driving experience with a taller gear. A 3.73 is great in my opinion, but even a 3.55 would be good with all that power. If you are at sea level, first and second gears are going to be a challenge to keep traction, even at 10 psi. If you live at 3-5k feet elevation, you will have far less power and it won't be as much of an issue. I am at about 4k elevation, so I am losing about 40 rwhp (dyno at 440, but dynos correct for elevation), but even so, 2nd gear tends to be as worthless as first with street tires (only have 255's in the rear) unless you like laying down 500 foot strips of rubber. At sea level, I would question whether 3rd gear would hold on the street, and that is with 3.73 gears.
Good luck with the install and enjoy your newfound power.
! ! ! Very nice response & well said I might add ! ! !
From what I’ve read with those I’ve talked with who have been at it a while, your pretty much spot on. But hell… the more I read the more I realize how much I don’t know.
Ha! Who’da’ thunk’ abuncha’ unarticulated gearhead’s would convey themselves in such a clear precise manner. Although, I gotta’ admit that you kinda’ lost me there in the suspension section. However, I’m sure some others will benefit from it though.=0/
For what it’s worth, I’m running on General Exclaims UHP’s with a 295-35-20 in the rear, and 255-35-20 up front. However, unlike most people here… I’m not as focused on my ¼ mile time or overly concerned with what kinda’ horsepower numbers I’m putting down at the rear wheel as I am with having fun. I’m sure you are as correct about my gear ratio as you are with the rest of you post, being I live around 800 ft above sea level.
However, given that my overall goal is to have a daily driver like one of those crazy-stupid Go-Carts that you see on Youtube with a Hayabusa motor in it”… I can’t begin to tell you how big of a smile I had on my face when you said you are at 4k in elevation and 2nd gear is almost as worthless as 1st with 3.73’s. Yep, I think I’ll probably just leave my 410’s in for now and put 373’s on while it’s in the air getting new rubber =0P
07-28-2010, 11:02 PM
#19
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Redding, CA
Posts: 4,552
If it were me, I would do the following with your auto car.
Change gears last, after you have driven and tracked the car. If you still experience traction issues, then I may change gears. I would vote in favor getting some DRs for daily use if you can avoid the rain. I have 540 rwhp and can get great traction in every gear with 4.10s on the street. The car makes over 500 rwtq from 2000 rpms to 5500 rpms and I still keep the power to the ground.
Run 10 PSI, dyno tune it to around 475 rwhp and call it good for power on the stock motor.
If you want more off the line, getting quicker into the powerband with a centri, get a convertor that will let you take off closer to your powerband. Talk with auto tranny guys and they could help you. There are great convertors now that you take off clsoer to your powerband and don't sacrifice drivability.
Change gears last, after you have driven and tracked the car. If you still experience traction issues, then I may change gears. I would vote in favor getting some DRs for daily use if you can avoid the rain. I have 540 rwhp and can get great traction in every gear with 4.10s on the street. The car makes over 500 rwtq from 2000 rpms to 5500 rpms and I still keep the power to the ground.
Run 10 PSI, dyno tune it to around 475 rwhp and call it good for power on the stock motor.
If you want more off the line, getting quicker into the powerband with a centri, get a convertor that will let you take off closer to your powerband. Talk with auto tranny guys and they could help you. There are great convertors now that you take off clsoer to your powerband and don't sacrifice drivability.
07-29-2010, 04:43 PM
#20
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: CA
Posts: 1,914
If it were me, I would do the following with your auto car.
Change gears last, after you have driven and tracked the car. If you still experience traction issues, then I may change gears. I would vote in favor getting some DRs for daily use if you can avoid the rain. I have 540 rwhp and can get great traction in every gear with 4.10s on the street. The car makes over 500 rwtq from 2000 rpms to 5500 rpms and I still keep the power to the ground.
Run 10 PSI, dyno tune it to around 475 rwhp and call it good for power on the stock motor.
If you want more off the line, getting quicker into the powerband with a centri, get a convertor that will let you take off closer to your powerband. Talk with auto tranny guys and they could help you. There are great convertors now that you take off clsoer to your powerband and don't sacrifice drivability.
Change gears last, after you have driven and tracked the car. If you still experience traction issues, then I may change gears. I would vote in favor getting some DRs for daily use if you can avoid the rain. I have 540 rwhp and can get great traction in every gear with 4.10s on the street. The car makes over 500 rwtq from 2000 rpms to 5500 rpms and I still keep the power to the ground.
Run 10 PSI, dyno tune it to around 475 rwhp and call it good for power on the stock motor.
If you want more off the line, getting quicker into the powerband with a centri, get a convertor that will let you take off closer to your powerband. Talk with auto tranny guys and they could help you. There are great convertors now that you take off clsoer to your powerband and don't sacrifice drivability.
LMAO! I wouldn't listen to anything that joker ^^^ has to say! I am still trying to fix my car since the last time he helped me work on it!
Last edited by sactown; 07-29-2010 at 04:53 PM.