Which supercharger is easiest to install
08-09-2010, 11:27 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: PR
Posts: 329
Which supercharger is easiest to install
Once and for all, I have decided I'm not going to spend a single dime more on this car unless it gets me to 400rwhp+. This obviously means a supercharger. Now after reading pages and pages of discussions about power outputs, low end torque this, high end HP that, looks, sound, price, etc. I'm more interested in the feedback of people who have installed the SC's themselves.
I want to know which supercharger out there is the absolute EASIEST to install by oneself on a driveway (with access to proper tools/wrenches, though). What I'm avoiding the most is a SC kit which requires splicing wires, fuel lines, hacking your alternator to pieces, relocating sensors and the like. I want something completely plug and play.
I know replacing the fuel pump is a pain in itself, but I'm thinking leaving that to a mechanic; but just paying for that labor and not the entire SC install.
I'm kind of leaning towards the Edelbrock E-force kit. It says it comes with harnesses that take care of the wiring stuff, but I haven't found an online instructions manual to see what else may need to be modified.
The 2010 Roush TVS 2.3L also comes with preassembled wiring stuff, but requires chopping off pieces of your alternator, and I just don't quite feel like doing that. Vortech/Paxton kits don't touch the manifold/fuel rails, but I'm pretty sure I read there was some wiring work that needed to be done.
So help me out guys. Which kit is the most easiest, dumbed-down, even-a-6th-generation-inbred-retard-could-install kit out there?
I want to know which supercharger out there is the absolute EASIEST to install by oneself on a driveway (with access to proper tools/wrenches, though). What I'm avoiding the most is a SC kit which requires splicing wires, fuel lines, hacking your alternator to pieces, relocating sensors and the like. I want something completely plug and play.
I know replacing the fuel pump is a pain in itself, but I'm thinking leaving that to a mechanic; but just paying for that labor and not the entire SC install.
I'm kind of leaning towards the Edelbrock E-force kit. It says it comes with harnesses that take care of the wiring stuff, but I haven't found an online instructions manual to see what else may need to be modified.
The 2010 Roush TVS 2.3L also comes with preassembled wiring stuff, but requires chopping off pieces of your alternator, and I just don't quite feel like doing that. Vortech/Paxton kits don't touch the manifold/fuel rails, but I'm pretty sure I read there was some wiring work that needed to be done.
So help me out guys. Which kit is the most easiest, dumbed-down, even-a-6th-generation-inbred-retard-could-install kit out there?
08-10-2010, 02:30 AM
#2
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: North Pole
Posts: 6,716
Almost all the kits will have you modifying wires or some sort of removal and relocation of the stock parts. It's not big deal. If you think of it in "sections" you can pretty much get it all done in the steps provided. Just follow the directions lulz...
My vortech was a walk in the park
PS
all intercooled kits will have you taking off the front end, for either an air to air or heat-exchanger. All top mounted kits will have you removing the manifold and routing an aftercooler behind the front bumper, coolant pump and other various hoses. Those kits will most often have you relocate the alternator, that you'll have to hack in one way or another. All centri kits will have you re-working a few of the stock bolts & brackets, most of those will also have you relocate the power steering/coolant canister. You'll want to do delete plates as this time, since you got everything out anyways. It's good for a claimed 10whp. Most kits will have you splice the MAF for an extension and seperate the IAT sensor for a remote location.
I looked at alot of the installs myself before getting the Vortech. IMO, the V3 non-intercooled is the easiest of them all to do on your own, but you will want an intercooler. IMO an air to air is the simpliest to install and maintain.
My vortech was a walk in the park
PS
all intercooled kits will have you taking off the front end, for either an air to air or heat-exchanger. All top mounted kits will have you removing the manifold and routing an aftercooler behind the front bumper, coolant pump and other various hoses. Those kits will most often have you relocate the alternator, that you'll have to hack in one way or another. All centri kits will have you re-working a few of the stock bolts & brackets, most of those will also have you relocate the power steering/coolant canister. You'll want to do delete plates as this time, since you got everything out anyways. It's good for a claimed 10whp. Most kits will have you splice the MAF for an extension and seperate the IAT sensor for a remote location.
I looked at alot of the installs myself before getting the Vortech. IMO, the V3 non-intercooled is the easiest of them all to do on your own, but you will want an intercooler. IMO an air to air is the simpliest to install and maintain.
Last edited by stealth_GT; 08-10-2010 at 02:38 AM.
08-10-2010, 06:47 AM
#3
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: WI
Posts: 1,898
The Edelbrock E-force is very straight forward and I installed mine in ~13 hours, with my only help coming when it came time to lower the supercharger into place on the motor. Most of the install is basic removal and reinstallation of parts, but you do need to repin a couple connectors which can be a PITA. The E-force install manual is available on the Edelbrock website (scroll down to the bottom of the page) http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...injected.shtml
08-10-2010, 08:16 AM
#4
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 250
I just installed my E-force and it wasn't difficult. Takes some time but very straight forward. After de-pinning some of the wires with a small eyeglass screwdriver I found out that the best thing to use was a paper clip. I sanded an angle on one of the ends of the paperclip and it worked great.
08-10-2010, 09:27 AM
#5
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: PR
Posts: 329
PS
all intercooled kits will have you taking off the front end, for either an air to air or heat-exchanger. All top mounted kits will have you removing the manifold and routing an aftercooler behind the front bumper, coolant pump and other various hoses. Those kits will most often have you relocate the alternator, that you'll have to hack in one way or another. All centri kits will have you re-working a few of the stock bolts & brackets, most of those will also have you relocate the power steering/coolant canister. You'll want to do delete plates as this time, since you got everything out anyways. It's good for a claimed 10whp. Most kits will have you splice the MAF for an extension and seperate the IAT sensor for a remote location.
all intercooled kits will have you taking off the front end, for either an air to air or heat-exchanger. All top mounted kits will have you removing the manifold and routing an aftercooler behind the front bumper, coolant pump and other various hoses. Those kits will most often have you relocate the alternator, that you'll have to hack in one way or another. All centri kits will have you re-working a few of the stock bolts & brackets, most of those will also have you relocate the power steering/coolant canister. You'll want to do delete plates as this time, since you got everything out anyways. It's good for a claimed 10whp. Most kits will have you splice the MAF for an extension and seperate the IAT sensor for a remote location.
Could you find me the link to the instructions manual for this kit?
The Edelbrock E-force is very straight forward and I installed mine in ~13 hours, with my only help coming when it came time to lower the supercharger into place on the motor. Most of the install is basic removal and reinstallation of parts, but you do need to repin a couple connectors which can be a PITA. The E-force install manual is available on the Edelbrock website (scroll down to the bottom of the page) http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...injected.shtml
Man, if I were a performance parts company, I would come out with a kit that would be completely plug and play. Even if it costs $8,000 in replacement bolts and harnesses. I'm sure many "wirephobics" like me would buy them.
Hey, this gives me an idea. Why doesn't someone gather all the links to all online instruction manuals for the SC kits and makes a sticky out of it? I would do it myself, but I'm "energetically deficient".
08-10-2010, 09:57 AM
#6
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,482
+1...something about cutting/splicing I just don't like...I'm considering the V3, non IC'd version, but am not sure about the boostapump (ummm, no) and have no idea about the gt 500 system, which would be MY only option...I dunno...I keep going back and forth on this...Just leave it @ 300whp and call it good or go for 400...Someone on here a while back made the statement that (a centri) he couldn't even use "most" of the boost during city driving...After second or third you're either getting a ticket for over 100 mph or hitting the cars in front of you...i don't and wouldn't track mine, so the dilema continues...
08-10-2010, 01:09 PM
#9
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: WI
Posts: 1,898
According to the M90 install manual (page 37), looks like you are cutting/splicing a couple wires... whereas with the E-force, the only cut/splice is a single wire for the intercooler pump relay. Otherwise, just moving a couple existing connectors.
Last edited by Doogie65; 08-10-2010 at 01:11 PM.