Short Throw Shifters. HONESTY folks!
#51
Set mine at 5 turns it is a little notchy but its perfect. Very positive feel, wouldn't turn it out any farther imo. As far as price, $260 shipped to my door I think is a fair shake for this quality piece.
#52
yeah, didnt they recently come down or something? When I bought my hurst Billet I seem to remember it being considerably cheaper. i think i got it on sale @ $199 but it was almost 2 years ago now, I thought the MGW were much more expensive then.
#53
i installed the MGW in my 2010 GT yesterdya and its a huge improvement over stock. I and a few othe rmemebers herehad had trouble with 10 cars going into third at WOT. I can say after drving the car for a while yesterday that the MGW seems to have fixed that.
this shifter is made to make that 2 to 3 shift a no brainer. I was cruising down my street at about 15mph in second messing around with the clutch pressed and and smacked the sifter and it almost went into third by itself. And by almost i mean no hands, slapped the shifter, it popped almost all the way into third for a second and then fell back out just from the force of the springs inside recetnering the thing. On the 3 or 4 WOT runs I did not one missed or scratched 2-3 shift.
I sat the MGW at 7 turns out and it feels slightly more notchy than stock, but has very short throws. I drove a roush 427r with the roush shifter in it when deciding to buy my blower. I hated that shifter, it was so very notchy. The MGW has throws on 7 that feel the same, but is much, much smoother shifting. Any of you 10 guys need to know the disassembly inside the car is different form the 09 down and a little different, but is very easy. the 10 shifter also loses the height adjustment of the older cars because of the new center console design. This is a great shifter and at $250 its not much more than anything else out there now.
this shifter is made to make that 2 to 3 shift a no brainer. I was cruising down my street at about 15mph in second messing around with the clutch pressed and and smacked the sifter and it almost went into third by itself. And by almost i mean no hands, slapped the shifter, it popped almost all the way into third for a second and then fell back out just from the force of the springs inside recetnering the thing. On the 3 or 4 WOT runs I did not one missed or scratched 2-3 shift.
I sat the MGW at 7 turns out and it feels slightly more notchy than stock, but has very short throws. I drove a roush 427r with the roush shifter in it when deciding to buy my blower. I hated that shifter, it was so very notchy. The MGW has throws on 7 that feel the same, but is much, much smoother shifting. Any of you 10 guys need to know the disassembly inside the car is different form the 09 down and a little different, but is very easy. the 10 shifter also loses the height adjustment of the older cars because of the new center console design. This is a great shifter and at $250 its not much more than anything else out there now.
#54
added the CHE K member brace today , well mostly ! I got this kit from a friend of mine who owes a 06 gt , k member installed perfectly . but found out the torque limiter link bolt is
to short for the v6 . I knew the bell housing bolts were different and I got those , and now I know about the torque limiter bolts ! anyway got the new bolts , and im gonna install in the morning , then im off to the track , I ll let you know what I think of the k member brace ,
oh I already have hurst short throw
#55
My only advice, make sure you get those spherical ends centered in there range of motion. The only complaint i have ever heard is it added noise. If it adds noise, then you dont know how to center a spherical end!
I dont know your technical level, but for those that dont know what I mean, the spherical end is a metal ball inside a metal sleeve. When you tighten the nut on the bottom that is used to set the length of that limiter, if you do not have a wrench to hold the limiter while you tighten the nut against it, it will turn over on itself and the sleeve mashes all the way to one side of the ball and instead of a spherical bearing, you have not created a locked, metal on metal link that can not move.
90% of what you hear from people who say Spherical ends are noisy (aside from items with spherical on both sides) are because of this. With the rubber isolators on what attachs to body side, there should be no noise increase.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrLAHD3BMwQ
the video broke here for some reason, basically I'm saying you need to have a wrench on the nut, and the adjuster and tighten against each other to get full range of motion, if you tighten one then the other, it will feel tight, but you are completely locking your spherical bearing, and it does not function.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZerO-A3YG70
added the CHE K member brace today , well mostly ! I got this kit from a friend of mine who owes a 06 gt , k member installed perfectly . but found out the torque limiter link bolt is
to short for the v6 . I knew the bell housing bolts were different and I got those , and now I know about the torque limiter bolts ! anyway got the new bolts , and im gonna install in the morning , then im off to the track , I ll let you know what I think of the k member brace ,
oh I already have hurst short throw
I dont know your technical level, but for those that dont know what I mean, the spherical end is a metal ball inside a metal sleeve. When you tighten the nut on the bottom that is used to set the length of that limiter, if you do not have a wrench to hold the limiter while you tighten the nut against it, it will turn over on itself and the sleeve mashes all the way to one side of the ball and instead of a spherical bearing, you have not created a locked, metal on metal link that can not move.
90% of what you hear from people who say Spherical ends are noisy (aside from items with spherical on both sides) are because of this. With the rubber isolators on what attachs to body side, there should be no noise increase.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrLAHD3BMwQ
the video broke here for some reason, basically I'm saying you need to have a wrench on the nut, and the adjuster and tighten against each other to get full range of motion, if you tighten one then the other, it will feel tight, but you are completely locking your spherical bearing, and it does not function.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZerO-A3YG70
added the CHE K member brace today , well mostly ! I got this kit from a friend of mine who owes a 06 gt , k member installed perfectly . but found out the torque limiter link bolt is
to short for the v6 . I knew the bell housing bolts were different and I got those , and now I know about the torque limiter bolts ! anyway got the new bolts , and im gonna install in the morning , then im off to the track , I ll let you know what I think of the k member brace ,
oh I already have hurst short throw
Last edited by JDWalton; 09-05-2010 at 12:34 PM.
#56
My only advice, make sure you get those spherical ends centered in there range of motion. The only complaint i have ever heard is it added noise. If it adds noise, then you dont know how to center a spherical end!
I dont know your technical level, but for those that dont know what I mean, the spherical end is a metal ball inside a metal sleeve. When you tighten the nut on the bottom that is used to set the length of that limiter, if you do not have a wrench to hold the limiter while you tighten the nut against it, it will turn over on itself and the sleeve mashes all the way to one side of the ball and instead of a spherical bearing, you have not created a locked, metal on metal link that can not move.
90% of what you hear from people who say Spherical ends are noisy (aside from items with spherical on both sides) are because of this. With the rubber isolators on what attachs to body side, there should be no noise increase.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrLAHD3BMwQ
the video broke here for some reason, basically I'm saying you need to have a wrench on the nut, and the adjuster and tighten against each other to get full range of motion, if you tighten one then the other, it will feel tight, but you are completely locking your spherical bearing, and it does not function.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZerO-A3YG70
I dont know your technical level, but for those that dont know what I mean, the spherical end is a metal ball inside a metal sleeve. When you tighten the nut on the bottom that is used to set the length of that limiter, if you do not have a wrench to hold the limiter while you tighten the nut against it, it will turn over on itself and the sleeve mashes all the way to one side of the ball and instead of a spherical bearing, you have not created a locked, metal on metal link that can not move.
90% of what you hear from people who say Spherical ends are noisy (aside from items with spherical on both sides) are because of this. With the rubber isolators on what attachs to body side, there should be no noise increase.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrLAHD3BMwQ
the video broke here for some reason, basically I'm saying you need to have a wrench on the nut, and the adjuster and tighten against each other to get full range of motion, if you tighten one then the other, it will feel tight, but you are completely locking your spherical bearing, and it does not function.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZerO-A3YG70
#57
tyty, yours dont look so bad either. i was actualy considering for a while, the black hood and black spoiler, though I was also gonna add the boss style C stripe, but I decided to dump all that money into parts instead!
#58
Just remember, what ever shifter you decide to go with there is usually a significant break in period for the shifter to operate properly. When I first installed my Roush shifter I hated it. It was very stiff and very notchie. My buddie who had the same shifter informed me that it took his shifter a good three months to break in and become smooth. He was absolutely right. After my shifter broke in, my shifts are extremely smooth without any notchiness at all. Shifts are positive, without ant missed shifts. I can absolutely say this was one of the best mods I have done to date. Shifting takes a little more muscle than stock, but that will happen with any short throw shifter. The thing I liked about the Roush shifter is that it has less parts that can go bad or loosen up and it uses all the stock mounting points. I highly recommend this shifter. I've had it for over a year with constant abuse and have not had one single problem.
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junior04
4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang
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09-28-2015 10:53 AM