"Engine Failsafe" issues!
#11
You need to get yourself a code reader. When the failsafe mode happens, pull over. DO NOT shut the car off. This will clear any temporary codes that could be gone if you cycle the key. Leave the car running and plug in your code reader. Write down all the codes.
Should be able to pick up a code reader pretty cheap at Autozone, Napa, Pep Boys, etc.
Should be able to pick up a code reader pretty cheap at Autozone, Napa, Pep Boys, etc.
#12
Was having this problem recently. Limp mode would engage, but it wouldn't throw a code. Would be fine on start up, and drive fine for days or weeks at a time, then randomly go to limp. A code might pop up for the drive to work, or even be there for a couple drives, then go away. Kinda random.
Anyway, my cheap-o reader will read Pending codes (codes that are registered for too few drive cycles and don't illuminate the MIL, or that have passed enough cycles that the MIL is turned off, but has not registered enough 'clean' cycles), as well as any that are actually thrown (enough drive cycles with that code registered to illuminate the MIL), and I imagine if you have any sort of decent OBD-II tool it should do the same.
I put it on and was getting a pending TPS A-B circuit something something not correlating or some such. Ended up needing a new TPS for about $50 on Amazon. Takes literally minutes to install, and everything was back to golden.
Anyway, my cheap-o reader will read Pending codes (codes that are registered for too few drive cycles and don't illuminate the MIL, or that have passed enough cycles that the MIL is turned off, but has not registered enough 'clean' cycles), as well as any that are actually thrown (enough drive cycles with that code registered to illuminate the MIL), and I imagine if you have any sort of decent OBD-II tool it should do the same.
I put it on and was getting a pending TPS A-B circuit something something not correlating or some such. Ended up needing a new TPS for about $50 on Amazon. Takes literally minutes to install, and everything was back to golden.
#13
You'll find at least four and maybe there are others that I've missed. The first one is on the top of the strut tower on the passenger side. Second is under the air cleaner box. That one is visible on my car because I have a Steeda CAI. And the third in at the top of the firewall just to the passenger side of the brake booster. You need to remove the plastic cover - or at least remove a few of the plastic attachments pins and you can pry it up and away enough.
There is also the negative battery cable attached at the passenger side of the block. I haven't done that one yet but will when I do some work under the front of the car in the Spring.
Anyone know any other ground points under the hood that I've missed?
When I cleaned mine, I used a little emery cloth to remove any corrosion. Coarse steel wool would work, too. Don't forget to clean up the bolts/screws.
#14
Thank you so much!! What was your mileage? And TPS being Throttle Position Sensor?
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YoungStangsMan
5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang
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09-05-2015 07:01 PM