Riptide

I have 4.10s and with street tires first gear is nearly worthless and the car has significant spin in 2nd gear as well. This is at around 5000-6000' DA so the car would probably be even worse at sea level.

Lots of people run 4.10s and a twin screw with no problem you just need to get the suspension setup, put some good drag radials or a slick on there, and learn how to launch the car all over again.

maxdmax

I think the origional rims are 17' so we can mount he ET Streets on these, i don't remember for sure but I think the stock rims were 9.5" wide. Do you know how wide you can go with these on the stock rims?


Yep, this is what I thought.

maxdmax

Just found my cable to my camera. Below are some pics of what the plugs looked like and what had to happen to get them out. You need some pretty good mechanical skills but really once you assemble everything you need all the tools, a really strong vacume, air pressure and everything else it is not risky at all to do. Just takes some time.


Here are all the plugs after I got them all out


Here are a couple of closer views.




Here is one tapped after I pushed the porcelain down to have room for 5 threads. I had to do 7 of these and pull them with the puller!

Simon1

So here what I do for plugs, first I run the HTO's. I do not have any experience with the Brisk plugs. I gap mine to where .034 is snug and call it good. Everytime I change my oil, which is twice a year and everytime I go to the track I check the plugs. If I ever have detonation, which I haven't had since the KB, or get a miss, which I have had a few bad plugs, then I change the plugs. I generally keep a complete set gapped with anti-sieze in the track bag for when I need to replace them. I replace my plugs one time per year no matter what.


At the HP level your sons car will be making he would be wise to get some DR's. 275/45/17 will fit nicely. However, they shall not be driven in any wet condition and you will need to start looking for a clutch. Don't buy anything but a Mcleod RST.



As far as other advice. Keep an eye on your air inlet temps while on the dyno. If they start getting to high you may get a different heat exchanger or a lrger resevoir tank. I made my own for a track oriented application, but there is others much smaller that will make a huge difference an IATs. The Stage 2 kit made 10 psi on my car and it was tuned to 475hp/450tq. This was only 17.5 degrees of timing through JBA shorty, equal length headers. Stocks cams/heads/comp springs. Those numbers are pretty normal for the stage 2 kit.

The 2.6 blows plenty of air at 10 psi to pop the stock motor. It should be able to be tuned for up to 500 rwhp with a little more aggressive tune. Just a few degrees of timing probably would have put me there too. I'm suppose to drive around on that tune but I lost the pulley tool have beenrunning the 15 psi pulley almost exclusively. Don't worry about hitting your power goal with the stock motor. If you can't get close to 475rwhp, then your tuner doesn't know what he is doing. Just because your tuner tunes GM, Dodge or other mustangs or Ford products, doesn't mean he can tune the S197. It's not easy and a really knowledgable tuner is hard to come by.

If your belts start shredding, your power steering pulley needs to be aligned. Don't buy anything fancy, just a get a string and use it to see how it lines up with the crank. It will either make a noise or throw/shred belts. Go to the auto part store and rent a puller. Took about 30 minutes to cure the whine I had.

At 15 psi I make over 500 tq to the wheels from WOT to red line and peak out at 540 rwhp. This is with a conservative tune at 16.5 degrees.


April 2 I am going back on the dyno with 100 oct and pushing it to close to 600rwhp.

Simon1

Make sure you put anti sieze on the plugs. Just a little and it will keep them from sticking like that.

Diabolical!

+1. On the shield, not the thread.

maxdmax

I hear you on the D/R I run MT ET Street IIs on my Car on 18" rims at the track and run Nitto 555Rs on the stock 20" rims for daily driving. The Nittos are good on the wet road, but the MTs are dangerous.


This is my Sons car and it still has a stock bottom end so I plan on a conservative tune more than peak power at this point. Got a lot of faith in my tuner, I hope he does not read this since I am trying to keep on the really conservative side on this one. LOL


With a few miles everything seems to be tracking good. We will keep a watch on this though. Again with the stock bottem end I want to stay below 10 PSI.

Good luck 600 rwhp should get you in the 10s by looking at your signature.

Did that, I got some 2400 degree anti-sieze from a friend and just put a small amout on each plug around just the lower shield and torqued them to 24ft lbs.

Simon1

FAIL! That's what the anti-seize is for, the threads.

Simon1

It doesn't take much and I know what Diabolical! was refferring to. He is right to put a little on the shank but the threads need it also. The carbon builds up on the plugs shank and freezes the plugs into the head which is what you experienced. I never have left my plugs in long enough for that to be an issue and my motor runs extremely clean. There is one cylinder that has some carbon build up after a year, but it's more staining than build up.

I have the power to get me into the 10's as it sits. The track I race at is consitantly 2 mph and .2-3 slower than a track a few hours away. SHould I put a real set of race wheels and tires on I would be into the 10's for sure.

I would like to make a 10 second pass and get a picture of the front wheels off of the ground by the end of the year.

Diabolical!

Ordinarily, yes, but it isn't the threads that seize on our plugs. It's the shield. You might consider it a FAIL!, but you don't need anti-seize on your spark plug threads.