Riptide

I'm not sure anyone can really answer that with anything but a guess dude. Some of these engines have gone for tons of miles with 10psi and others have let go on the dyno at under 400whp.

Have a plan B. That's your best option IMO. Plan B may mean a second cheaper car in case you blow this one up. I know I would never, EVER have supercharged this car without another car to get me to work and around in the winter.

Mishri

Why not just get an engine block heater installed? I got one for free when I ordered my Mustang I think they are fairly cheap. Or do you have no place to plug it into?

It says in that warning that if you have an engine block heater then it's okay, or will be warrantied...

highline

he's worried about away from home...movies, school, work, ect...plug heating blanket into electric car plug (away from home) would be funny...

stealth_GT

Ditto on the second car.. I thought about an older F150 4x4 or Bronco, just for the winter Would be nice..

The Brenspeed 302 is supposed to last for about 80-100k miles depending on boost levels (13-15 psi), obviously less if it's something like 30-35 lol

Honestly, I'd be happy if my stock one lasted 80k miles with the R2300..

Those only apply for the oil line/feed superchargers, mine is self-lubed ( sounds funny, I know lol) so the engine oil heaters don't work..

Yeah, pretty much.. I honestly don't trust Vortechs during the winter. Period. I am not using a shop light overnight or warming blanket like they said to. .that sounds ridiculous. Almost as ridiculous as taking it on and off every friggin' year rofl

smokievol

So Stealth which TVS are you thinking about?
If its a Maggie, I don't think you would be disappointed.
Just depends on the HP your looking for.

stealth_GT

I am looking at the Roush R2300, only because I like VMP tuning and TRUST their tunes.

If I do get it, it'll be 8 or 10 psi, AFCO dual fan heat-exchanger and an aero-force AF gauge to keep an eye on things..

Honestly, if 6 psi is as good as you say it sounds, I might try the 6 psi pulley first and then go with the 8 and keep it like that for a big

smokievol

The shop is planning to add the aeromotive fuel pump to take it to 500 HP, to ensure I don't go lean. They stated I was at max with my present fuel pump, for a 100.00 bucks it nice insurance. Any other mods and I would be gambling.

stealth_GT

You don't have a KB Bap?? I have mine set up, and I am keeping it for the R if I get it.

I don't want to run that much power actually.. whatever I can have last on the stock motor. I will build up the suspension after that.

I wish I actually drove a car with a Roots TVS blower on it so I can actually see what I am getting myself into. 8/10 psi might be a little too much lol

Riptide

None of those heaters are going to do squat for it if you end up driving the car to work in the morning and then parking it for 4+ hours in below zero temps. The car will be stone cold by the time you go back out to drive it again. Unless you had a place to plug in your blanket, heater, etc. every time you park it away from the house.

smokievol

My shop said the KB BAP is a temp fix, they don't like going that route.
I've heard pros and cons each side.

11109 - In-Line Electric Fuel Pump
SKU: 11109

For fuel injected and carbureted applications when used with a bypass regulator. This affordable pump can support up to 500 HP naturally aspirated or 375 HP forced induction. Popular as a secondary pump, in “series” with an in-tank fuel pump, making a combined system capable of supporting up to 500 HP Forced induction.

• Universal inline pump, designed for external mounting.
• Submersible – custom installation required.
• Rated for continuous duty applications.
• Flows 325 lbs. per hour @ 13.5 Volts and 45 PSI.
• 5/16” hose barb inlet and outlet are standard.
• Suitable for use with Aeromotive Digital FMU P/N 16303.