streetyme

Hello I am looking at replacing my stock cams with some aftermarket NSA cams for FI. I was looking at BBR Stage 1, Detroit Rocker FI, Comp Cams Stage 2 NSA Blower cams or a custom cam from Flowtech Induction.. I just want good drive ability and make decent power.. I am right at 400 rwhp on a Mustang dyno like to see a 30-40 hp gain. I have the LT's and gears along with the 3500 stall; to hopfully compliment the cam... Any advice would be Great...

sactown

http://www.brenspeed.com/127350.html

These are the cams I am running, driveability is great make decent power, have a little thump at idle. they do require springs.

streetyme

Thanks for the response. I would be estatic with just a 11 something pass..

Flat out

I have Detroit Rocker blower cams...............Perfect.

sactown

How much boost are you making? What is your AF and timing? Have you done anything to lighten the car up a little? You have a number of very good mods, I would think you would be making more power than that.

There are better thing you can get than cames at this point.

streetyme

I am right at 9.2 lbs of boost.. My AF is right at 12.2. I dynoed my car on a Dynojet and it came it at 436 to the tire, but I use the Mustang cause thats what my tuner uses. peak HP (398) was at 6111 and peak TQ( 378) was at 3981. I thought about a tubular K member , but was told would not save me that much weight.

sactown

First off IMO your AF is way to lean, you should be around 11.8-11.6 (at least with a stick). If you are only making 398 rwhp @ 9.2lbs of boost either your tune is not good or your SC is not very efficent.

When I first had my Saleen installed with a bad tune I made 429rwhp @ 6psi, and I made 490rwhp at around 9psi (motor let go at around 520rwhp @ 11psi due to bad race gas, long story there). Who is tunning your car?

The k-member is a great mod, but to get the most out of it you should also replace the A-arms and raditor support. To give you an idea every and I mean every one of my bubby's is making more rwhp than I am by at least 50rwhp, but I am the only one in the 10's and that was after only 3 pass's on the new setup with 30-40mph cross winds, and the 10.9 was the only pass I stayed in the gas the entire run.

IMO cams would be a throw away mod, sorry.

streetyme

Kurt Borton from MCP is the one tuning my car.. His own car is the Worlds Fastest 4.6 3.v.. His Fairmont runs 7.80's at 192.. That is a Boss block and a F2 with a powerglide. I think one of the problems is the sc is Not the most effiecent... I was looking back at my sheet and it (AF) fattens up to 11.7 across the range. .. Your car is defintely running well... You have a good setup. I want to forge the motor and eventually throw another sc at ; maybe not a F2 though.

streetyme

I talked to Kurt and he said that a D1 Procharged 05-09 Mustang will typically see about 420-440 on his dyno . I believe that is around 11 lbs of boost.

Simon1

I wonder what I will run in Sac?

12.2 is too lean. That leaves zero room for weather variance and tells me your tuner may need some help from someone.

You can also get a tune made specifically for race gas. Switching to 100/104 octane and running different adjusting the tune can net several tenths off of your quarter mile time. When I got my last race tune, I gained .4 in the 1/4 and 4 mph. My peak HP only went up 25, but my torque on the lower end went up 60 or so. The 100 octane makes a difference if your tuner knows how to tune for it, you have actual race gas (not from the pump at some station) and you have a way to drain your tank to run pure 100 oct.



I am not familar with the magnacharger, which means it's not really popular. Maybe because there are other blowers that are much more efficent.

With your power level and an automatic, you should be in the 11's. You need a decent track and a good tire.

If Sactown and I switched to automatics, we would be deep into the 10s.

Sactown took alot of weight off of his car. His probably weighs 200 lbs less than mine, which will give him a clear advantage.