S197GT07

If he had longtubes he would of been 330+ easy. It's becoming more and more popular now for people to complain about the cost of longtubes, and they aren't worth it, and blah blah blah but guess what, with cams they are!

And wait, let me get this straight, you think with LT's, intake, CMDP's and UDP's you are going to see 340? Or is that after cams? You can see my #'s and mods in my sig.

rdsx18

Don't get too excited, I had better baseline numbers than you too. It is tough to break 340 without going to some all out, hard to street cams from what I have seen. I would have gone to long tubes, but I already had the mid-pipe and could have returned it but didn't want to go through the hassle of returning and re-purchasing. Also, maybe the 2 hour drive and jumping right on the dyno didn't help. I have bigger plans though, with any luck I'll get a nice tax return and forge the motor, then later on boost it.

Edit: and Brian, Pete insists that I would gain 6-8 at the wheels and it's not worth the 1500 for a nice set of longtubes, I discussed it with him when I was there.

S197GT07

I gained ~22/20 with LT's and CMDP's.

Granted, I didn't do them for short term, I did them for long term. The blower I have sitting in my bedroom is thanking me in advance for getting LT's.

JCON

I''d love to go FI but have no plans to. Wanted to hit 350 NA and leave it at that. I was planning to do hot rod cams though. I am more interested in TQ than HP but haven't really thought about what I expect for it.

S197GT07

I don't think 350 is possible with the hot-rods. You would have to have some sick heads, or some high comp pistons. At those prices you might as well get a V3 or the DOB kit haha.

rdsx18

I also don't think 350 is possible, not on stock heads and the hot rods, if you go with all out racing cams and do some head work you can, but at that point why not just do a blower, like Brian suggested?

Edit: For a reference, my buddy built his 99 Cobra, did all the head work he could, some crazy cams, longtubes, and a new 5.0 stroker shortblock and he made 360whp, then blew it up and rebuilt it and added a new manifold and some other work and made 401whp, but for all that aggravation why not just boost it?

JCON

With what I've spent so far, adding cams now is less than a blower. Don't plan on high numbers just want to get to 8-9lbs per horsepower. I've started doing weight reduction already. It's a result of not saving up the money until I have enough for a blower and having fun doing small mods here and there.

pterrell

I am in Cali but the car is registered in WA. That means no smog requirement (yay active duty military)

The goal of my car is to have a mean sounding, fun to drive, and beat your brand new 2013 Camaro at the light but not kill my pocket (any worse) on gas.

Yes I'm set to do it myself. One of my friends has a full shop at his house and is a professional mechanic himself. He actually used to work for MMR for a while.

I don't plan on using any boost right now but a supercharger isn't out of the question, just not on the drawing board yet.

I've been looking at the Comp Cams Stage II cams. My question there, should I stick with the NSR or replace the springs and everything to get the top end ones?

My plan for exhaust is going to be long tubes (probably BBK but I'm open to suggestions) with an Flowmaster cat back.

08caliGT

To beat a new Camaro you're gonna have to hurt gas mileage without a blower. Cams/gear gonna suck it right up. I average 14 city atm with FRPP cams and 4.10s.

rdsx18

Depends on what you are looking for. The NSR cams are very good on the street but don't make the most power. I am willing to bet the VSR cams with lockouts are worse on gas and dont have the best street manners, but sound great and get good numbers. It is a give and take of what you are looking for, and yes, 4.10s or at least 3.73s are, IMO, a must do item when you get cams.