cherylp

Wondering if anyone has had this problem. Recently, my 2005 mustang gt starting running really rough when I was using lower gears (1st and 2nd) in stop and go traffic. I would have to either kill the engine or jam the gas pedal to straighten it out. I don't know much about engines, but it feels like the timing was going way out of whack. An engine code came on and indicated that my cam positioning sensors were out. So, I replaced those. It ran good for a few days and the problem came back with the same code, so I replaced them again. However, I'm still having the same problem now but with no codes showing. If I come to a slow speed and take off in second gear and have to push the clutch in again, the engine starts banging and shaking and barely running. As long as I go through the gears with normal acceleration (no stop and go and slowing down) everything is fine. Does anyone out there have any suggestions?

wayne613

I assume you have the stock alternator? This is the likely cause. You can pull the sensor connection to verify if it smooths out a bit. In which case, yank the alternator and get a replacement.

https://mustangforums.com/mustang-ts...D-5.4L-3V.html

moosestang

A code p0340 for the cam position sensor is almost certainly caused by your alternator. The stock alternators can leak AC current and cause sensors to go haywire. The CPS just happens to be the closest one.

Your cam sensors were most likely fine and still are. I would invest in one of the alternators sold by americanmuscle.com.

You can measure the amount of AC ripple using a multimeter.


http://www.pvv.org/~syljua/merc/TooSeptST07.pdf

cherylp

Wayne 613 and moosestang,

Thank you for the information. I actually replaced my alternator years ago; however, I am going to check out my alternator based on this information. Maybe the new one is having issues. Thanks again.

wayne613

Likely, yes. If you're fairly handy, and I assume so if you own a multi-meter for the ripple test, then I'd just get a new bridge rectifier board, and voltage regulator assembly (Rectifier bridge is the culprit, but might as well replace the regulator with a new one while you've got it apart). Putting a new rectifier board on will require some decent soldering experience is all. Contact anyone you purchase from first to verify you're getting the right components if you go this route.

You can always outright replace it, and the replacements from PA performance (which are resold at americanmuscle.com) are good, but just as good can be had from the many electronics tinkerers that sell on Ebay and such..