dlazrael

Not to hijack, but if I plan to get a s/c in the near future, will it hurt my current perfomance/gas mileage if I use a 1 degree cooler plug now? Also does that TSB extend to the 2008 4.6L 3V?

BrianK

May not affect 08's. If you COP is brown then you're OK. (read other threads to verify though). Not sure about the plug temp.

S197GT07

Dont put the plugs in till the blower is on.

doctorofpain

Do not apply to threads from Goldenpony's post
I'm confused isn't the purpose of the anti-seize to keep the threads from sticking? If I'm missing something please let me know.

Ford_Dude

Normally yes, but for the 2-piece plugs its also to prevent the carbon from sticking and giving you pain later.

BrianK

I just removed the OEM plugs (Motorcraft PZT-1F H9)and installed Champions. All went well - none broke. I followed the TSB but used PB Blaster and Seafoam Deep Creep to wick into the OEM plugs.
1) I removed the COP's and blew out the spark plug cavity. There was a bit of dirt around the top of where the COP fit.
2) I sprayed some PB Blaster and Deep Creep around the plug and let it sit for an hour. Not sure if anything wicked down to the plug threads but I did it anyway.
3) Loosened each plug by 1/8 turn with torque wrench set at 25 ft-lbs. All broke loose with out clicking on the torque wrench. Let this sit for another hour.
4) Worked the plugs in and out slowly and they all came out. Again used a torque wrench and no clicking (torque less than 25 ft-lbs). A bit of squealing but the in and out action seemed to be the trick in breaking the plug loose from the carbon buildup. I didn't use too much torque to loosen - just until I felt the torque increase. As they backed out further, the removal torque became less and less. I could see where the carbon build up was on the plugs and the fluids did seem to dissolve the bond between the plug and the outer wall.
5) Once all plugs were out, I put paper towel over each spark plug hole and cranked engine for about 2-3 seconds to blow out the residual PB Blaster and Deep Creep. Lots of vapor came out so a worth while step.
6) Installed Champions 7989 and torqued to 25 ft-lbs.
7) Took it out for a rip - no codes and no engine misfires or hesitation. The Champions seemed to work just fine.

Thank God this is done. I've been dreading broken plugs this all winter once I decided to change them. I have 36,000 miles on the car. Saved myself lots of $$ instead of taking it to the Stealership ($140/hr) who quoted me $400 if none broke and up to $1200 if all broke. That's why you DIY.

Thankfully these forums have lots of great info for us DIY'ers.

vistabluevert

18 months later, I finally got around to changing the plugs. When I unloosened them each a 1/4 turn, they felt like they would easily come out. However, not wanting to risk breakage, I let PB Blaster soak in the sockets for about 2 hours. During that time, I cleaned the COPS and parts of the engine bay. The plugs came out like butter. I did not even have to move them back and forth much to get them out. There was some carbon build-up on the plugs, but nothing significant at all. I don't know if this answers my initial post, but I have to believe that the higher octane Shell gas and Ford Racing CAI tune helped impede carbon build-up. The lower miles (34.9K) probably helped too.

Before applying the anti-seize to the new plugs, I taped off the bottom of each plug with electrical tape, so as not to get any on the electrode. I installed the new plugs--torqued to 25 ft/lbs--and the engine fired right up!

I now have piece of mind on this issue. Next project is to flush the antifreeze and replace the fuel filter. Then I'll treat myself with a MGW short throw shifter, and new shoes later this summer.

I've had this car for 7 years now, and I enjoy it today as much as when I first drove it off the dealer lot.

kevsgt

Amen to that

BrianK

You said you taped off the bottom of the plugs so as not to get any NS on the electrode. Just to confirm - you did put some NS on the smoother part between the threads and the electrode - right? Putting NS on this ~1/2 part between the threads and the electrode is to keep them from seizing due to carbon buildup.

vistabluevert

Yes, that's what I did. You just put the anti-seize on the smooth part between the threads and just above the electrode. The Ford TSB 08-07-06 shows where to apply it.