Shifting from 2nd to 3rd is like hitting a wall at high RPM's...HELP!
#1
Shifting from 2nd to 3rd is like hitting a wall at high RPM's...HELP!
I have a Hurst Competition short throw shifter. I can try to push it into gear as hard as I want and push the clutch in all the way, but at high rpm's it will not go in. What is wrong with it? It's like their's an inpenetratable wall there. We are talking 4,5,6,000 rpms. I Google searched as well as the forum but need more info. Anyone have experience with this problem?
#2
I also have a hurst competition shifter. I do not have these exact problems but I do find that the shifter is a little notchy and firm. I personally like it because I know I'm in gear and it is fun to bang them!
Just try shifting it like you hate it and it isn't your car! You will get it.
How long have you had the car/shifter?
I bought my 2009 with the shifter and IT DID take some time to get used to it. Maybe you just need a little time and practice.
Just my .02
Just try shifting it like you hate it and it isn't your car! You will get it.
How long have you had the car/shifter?
I bought my 2009 with the shifter and IT DID take some time to get used to it. Maybe you just need a little time and practice.
Just my .02
#3
The Hurst is not a very forgiving shifter. You may have a shot synchro, but I blame the hurst. I swapped mine out for an MGW and have only missed a gear once or twice in the last two years. (Dozens and dozens of runs down the drag strip.)
#4
I rarely miss gears with it but that's just because of my driving style...I put my weight into the shifts!
But I could imagine how easy it could be for someone to miss gears if they are not very experienced.
But I could imagine how easy it could be for someone to miss gears if they are not very experienced.
#5
What is causing the problem you're experiencing (binding in the shift linkage) is the engine torquing over at high RPM. That can cause the shift linkage to misalign making the shift impossible. The most correct way to fix it would be to replace your motor mounts with a set of stiffer units that will keep the motor from moving as much. Prothane, Steeda, and others make polyurethane mounts that will do the job nicely.
I currently have both the Hurst Comp/Plus and Prothane mounts. I also had the stock shifter for some time when I initially purchased the vehicle. There were occasional 2-3 shift problems with both the stock unit and the Hurst with the stock motor mounts. With the Prothane mounts I've not had any.
I currently have both the Hurst Comp/Plus and Prothane mounts. I also had the stock shifter for some time when I initially purchased the vehicle. There were occasional 2-3 shift problems with both the stock unit and the Hurst with the stock motor mounts. With the Prothane mounts I've not had any.
#6
What is causing the problem you're experiencing (binding in the shift linkage) is the engine torquing over at high RPM. That can cause the shift linkage to misalign making the shift impossible. The most correct way to fix it would be to replace your motor mounts with a set of stiffer units that will keep the motor from moving as much. Prothane, Steeda, and others make polyurethane mounts that will do the job nicely.
I currently have both the Hurst Comp/Plus and Prothane mounts. I also had the stock shifter for some time when I initially purchased the vehicle. There were occasional 2-3 shift problems with both the stock unit and the Hurst with the stock motor mounts. With the Prothane mounts I've not had any.
I currently have both the Hurst Comp/Plus and Prothane mounts. I also had the stock shifter for some time when I initially purchased the vehicle. There were occasional 2-3 shift problems with both the stock unit and the Hurst with the stock motor mounts. With the Prothane mounts I've not had any.
This sounds like a much more possible solution. I'm a big, strong guy that lifts weights and boxes almost every single day. If I cant get it in 3rd at high rpms nobody is lol. How much does something like that cost? Motor mounts plus install?
I do wonder though...is it motor mounts for the possible flex thing or a bad synchro???
I don't even know what that means LoL
If I could have gone back I would have bought the MGW shifter as it may have helped this a little being that its the best.. But I think this problem is not the shifter unit or the user.
#7
I firmly believe it is not me or the shifter.
I feel like something else is going on here.
So what ya think? Where would you start?
#8
Can anyone talk about the cost of motor mounts and also what synchro problems are and cost?
Thank you
#10
Is your clutch stock?
Assuming it's not the clutch, you can either get the CHE torque limiters, which I have, or go with the MGW, which is supposed to be the best.
You should be shifting to thired with the open palm of your hand, not gripping it like a fighter pilot. Same goes for shifting to 4th, use just your four fingers pulling straight back, open hand. When you grip it like the stick in the fighter plane, you end up missing gears or hitting second instead of 4th! I have no problem hitting 3rd with the technique below and the hurst shifter + torque limiters.
http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Im..._Shifting.html
Assuming it's not the clutch, you can either get the CHE torque limiters, which I have, or go with the MGW, which is supposed to be the best.
You should be shifting to thired with the open palm of your hand, not gripping it like a fighter pilot. Same goes for shifting to 4th, use just your four fingers pulling straight back, open hand. When you grip it like the stick in the fighter plane, you end up missing gears or hitting second instead of 4th! I have no problem hitting 3rd with the technique below and the hurst shifter + torque limiters.
http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Im..._Shifting.html