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what do I need to kill a 5.0?

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Old 06-08-2013, 01:55 AM
  #21  
danzcool
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Originally Posted by tbuff
you need NOS. 2 of them. The big ones
NAWS!
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Old 06-08-2013, 02:13 AM
  #22  
Lem-06
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oh **** son, dont blow the welds on the intake!
or him and the mad scientist will have to tear the engine apart to replace the rings you fried
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Old 06-09-2013, 09:15 PM
  #23  
bigstick
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I'm with Sharad on this one. 1/8 mile race from a dig. Add Driver mod, plus suspension and tires, and you'll beat 80% of the 5.0 drivers out there.
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Old 06-11-2013, 05:35 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by tbuff
you need NOS. 2 of them. The big ones
And you need em by tonight!

Originally Posted by bigstick
I'm with Sharad on this one. 1/8 mile race from a dig. Add Driver mod, plus suspension and tires, and you'll beat 80% of the 5.0 drivers out there.
^^yes indeed!
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Old 06-11-2013, 07:07 PM
  #25  
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This will decimate all.... after we overnight some parts from Japan.
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Old 06-11-2013, 09:17 PM
  #26  
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Well put it on my tab at Harry's. I've gotta get him racing....
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Old 06-14-2013, 02:34 PM
  #27  
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(he owns you now)
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Old 08-01-2013, 06:44 PM
  #28  
VistaBlueFrank68
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Hay Moose I'm modding the motor on this 2013 GT/CS: Have the Boss intake and a custom tune from The Mustang Shop, K&N filter on stock CAI, Kooks L/T and Catted-X with FRPP axil-back Sports.

I want a Boss Roadrunner engine but think I can do three modifications to get close with out dropping 11K:
a. Boss Chain Tensioners.
b. Boss Valve Springs.
c. Boss Phaser Ring.

Now would this help hold the motor together if I stay under 450 grnd and don't push it past 7000 rpm. That guy that put 700 hp on his new car should've known it was toast, I bet the shop knew it. We had a new 2013 V6, boosted with lots of LBS. Did the same thing...blowed-up on the first pass.

I just feel if I do it this way, there's no need to pull the engines pistons and rods.

As for your comment about Mopar and Chevy planned failure of rear ends to save the engine. I'm Bomb Proofing my driveline:

Done: Shaftmaster, Braided Clutch-line, BMR Brace Safety Loop, FRPP Differential Cover.

In-boxes, up next: Swarr-bar, Yukon Posi, Alloy Differential Shafts, reuse stock FRPP 3.73.

Next addition: Spec. Stage 1 Clutch, Spec. Aluminum Flywheel.

The suspension and steering was totally gutted and replaced, so I'm covered there.

Do you think the Engine will hold-up to 4 trips a year, 5/6 passes at a shade under 7K?
I also feel it's easier to build it's core, then fix it when it self-destructs.
It will also have the stock P-Zero Nero's 19x40x245, 8.5's until I get tired of spinning.
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Old 08-02-2013, 11:22 AM
  #29  
clix813
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I have a friend with a 2013 auto. I haven't raced him from a stop but with on the 30th at the strip so we will see that. But I raced him from about 40 to 110~120ish and I pulled about a car on him till the 100 mark and then he started to slowly catch up. They have a lot of power stock. From a dig I think I would have him bad. Im expecting to beat him pretty good at the track with my d/r and some suspension stuff I ordered I don't think it will be to close.
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Old 08-03-2013, 09:31 AM
  #30  
Lifter583
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Originally Posted by Shelty
guy at work is smack talking be because he has a 2012 5.0, so he thinks that my 2005 is inferior because its old and i cant afford a 5.0

what do I need to be able to beat his stock 5.0?

I have the S197 "starter pack" of mods, short throw, CAI, tune, axleback....

havnt finished getting my suspension parts together, but when thats done it will be K-springs Koni reds and eventually BMR's entire catalog...
I have been out with my 06 GT & I had a guy giving me sh** a couple of times about my 06 being "so slow" compared to his 5.0... so I went on a hunt with my GT500 and was lucky enough to catch him out one day...I said I am the one with the "slow GT" and I was wondering how small your di** feels now?? and since he had his girlfriend /wife with him...I asked her if she would like to ride in a real car?? I have to say the look and dead silence was priceless!!!!
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