what do I need to kill a 5.0?
#24
#28
Hay Moose I'm modding the motor on this 2013 GT/CS: Have the Boss intake and a custom tune from The Mustang Shop, K&N filter on stock CAI, Kooks L/T and Catted-X with FRPP axil-back Sports.
I want a Boss Roadrunner engine but think I can do three modifications to get close with out dropping 11K:
a. Boss Chain Tensioners.
b. Boss Valve Springs.
c. Boss Phaser Ring.
Now would this help hold the motor together if I stay under 450 grnd and don't push it past 7000 rpm. That guy that put 700 hp on his new car should've known it was toast, I bet the shop knew it. We had a new 2013 V6, boosted with lots of LBS. Did the same thing...blowed-up on the first pass.
I just feel if I do it this way, there's no need to pull the engines pistons and rods.
As for your comment about Mopar and Chevy planned failure of rear ends to save the engine. I'm Bomb Proofing my driveline:
Done: Shaftmaster, Braided Clutch-line, BMR Brace Safety Loop, FRPP Differential Cover.
In-boxes, up next: Swarr-bar, Yukon Posi, Alloy Differential Shafts, reuse stock FRPP 3.73.
Next addition: Spec. Stage 1 Clutch, Spec. Aluminum Flywheel.
The suspension and steering was totally gutted and replaced, so I'm covered there.
Do you think the Engine will hold-up to 4 trips a year, 5/6 passes at a shade under 7K?
I also feel it's easier to build it's core, then fix it when it self-destructs.
It will also have the stock P-Zero Nero's 19x40x245, 8.5's until I get tired of spinning.
I want a Boss Roadrunner engine but think I can do three modifications to get close with out dropping 11K:
a. Boss Chain Tensioners.
b. Boss Valve Springs.
c. Boss Phaser Ring.
Now would this help hold the motor together if I stay under 450 grnd and don't push it past 7000 rpm. That guy that put 700 hp on his new car should've known it was toast, I bet the shop knew it. We had a new 2013 V6, boosted with lots of LBS. Did the same thing...blowed-up on the first pass.
I just feel if I do it this way, there's no need to pull the engines pistons and rods.
As for your comment about Mopar and Chevy planned failure of rear ends to save the engine. I'm Bomb Proofing my driveline:
Done: Shaftmaster, Braided Clutch-line, BMR Brace Safety Loop, FRPP Differential Cover.
In-boxes, up next: Swarr-bar, Yukon Posi, Alloy Differential Shafts, reuse stock FRPP 3.73.
Next addition: Spec. Stage 1 Clutch, Spec. Aluminum Flywheel.
The suspension and steering was totally gutted and replaced, so I'm covered there.
Do you think the Engine will hold-up to 4 trips a year, 5/6 passes at a shade under 7K?
I also feel it's easier to build it's core, then fix it when it self-destructs.
It will also have the stock P-Zero Nero's 19x40x245, 8.5's until I get tired of spinning.
#29
I have a friend with a 2013 auto. I haven't raced him from a stop but with on the 30th at the strip so we will see that. But I raced him from about 40 to 110~120ish and I pulled about a car on him till the 100 mark and then he started to slowly catch up. They have a lot of power stock. From a dig I think I would have him bad. Im expecting to beat him pretty good at the track with my d/r and some suspension stuff I ordered I don't think it will be to close.
#30
guy at work is smack talking be because he has a 2012 5.0, so he thinks that my 2005 is inferior because its old and i cant afford a 5.0
what do I need to be able to beat his stock 5.0?
I have the S197 "starter pack" of mods, short throw, CAI, tune, axleback....
havnt finished getting my suspension parts together, but when thats done it will be K-springs Koni reds and eventually BMR's entire catalog...
what do I need to be able to beat his stock 5.0?
I have the S197 "starter pack" of mods, short throw, CAI, tune, axleback....
havnt finished getting my suspension parts together, but when thats done it will be K-springs Koni reds and eventually BMR's entire catalog...