hot rods, or....
#1
hot rods, or....
hey everybody, i did do a search but couldnt ind a definite route to take. I have a 2010 gt with a 5speed. I want to put in cams that i dont necessarily need to change the rear end gears. I was thinking either comp cams or hot rods. Any other suggestions?
Whats better for my application? i will be going for a N/A build. I have full exhaust now, steeda cai, but after cams i will save up for Lt's. What other supporting mods could help this.. Ive heard the ford racing intake manifold is pretty much a waste unless you can reach around 7k rpm. Fuel injectors ive heard i might need to change but dont know he need for this?
Anyways back to the main question. i will be getting a dyno tune and adjust my A/F ratio after my cam install. Which cams have a better loping idle and performance. What parts are needed besides 2 new cam bolts? I know the comp cams need the phaser kit, but the hot rods dont. What are your opinions on these and what would you do? Hoping to hit around 325+ at the wheels. I also have an eibach pro kit suspension waiting to be put in to put some power down. thanks everybody!
Whats better for my application? i will be going for a N/A build. I have full exhaust now, steeda cai, but after cams i will save up for Lt's. What other supporting mods could help this.. Ive heard the ford racing intake manifold is pretty much a waste unless you can reach around 7k rpm. Fuel injectors ive heard i might need to change but dont know he need for this?
Anyways back to the main question. i will be getting a dyno tune and adjust my A/F ratio after my cam install. Which cams have a better loping idle and performance. What parts are needed besides 2 new cam bolts? I know the comp cams need the phaser kit, but the hot rods dont. What are your opinions on these and what would you do? Hoping to hit around 325+ at the wheels. I also have an eibach pro kit suspension waiting to be put in to put some power down. thanks everybody!
#2
Detroit Rocker cams are another good option to look at, they're produced for brenspeed by comp cams, but they don't need phase limiters. Good build plans, I plan about the exact same route but 4.10 gears are a must for me
#3
yeah they are good cams but wasnt sure if they needed gears or not to run
#4
I drove a car that had just cams and muffler deletes and it was a solid feeling car that pulled the way I expected the GT to from the showroom. I plan to do Hot Rods with my intake, longtubes, and 4.10's. Oddly enough, I also have the Eibach Pro kit.
#5
why did you decide hot rods? also, i can run hot rods with the stock 3.31 gears correct?
#6
The Eibach Pro kit is great! Looks great and helps the handling a bit (especially on my heavy convertible). Have to watch some driveway angles and speed bumps. I also have a ProChamber for a cross over pipe, which lowers my clearance a little so it affects me more. Pro is def better than Sportline for a DD.
The car I drove was a manual so it had 3.55’s in the rear. It felt good on the low end but the mid and high were incredible after driving a stock GT. The pull to redline was noticeably better. I am choosing the FRPP cams because they are no spring required cams and if you had a warranty existing at the time Ford would honor it since they’re Ford parts. I don’t plan to go forced induction (these are not necessarily a friendly blower cam) and they’re the most aggressive non-custom grind NA cam that again retains stock valve train. I daily drive my car and enjoy it, I don’t race it (although I would like to a few times) so going with a ridiculous set up isn’t necessary. Also, the aggressive lope at idle (which I originally didn’t want) is intoxicating and I love it.
The car I drove was a manual so it had 3.55’s in the rear. It felt good on the low end but the mid and high were incredible after driving a stock GT. The pull to redline was noticeably better. I am choosing the FRPP cams because they are no spring required cams and if you had a warranty existing at the time Ford would honor it since they’re Ford parts. I don’t plan to go forced induction (these are not necessarily a friendly blower cam) and they’re the most aggressive non-custom grind NA cam that again retains stock valve train. I daily drive my car and enjoy it, I don’t race it (although I would like to a few times) so going with a ridiculous set up isn’t necessary. Also, the aggressive lope at idle (which I originally didn’t want) is intoxicating and I love it.
#7
The Eibach Pro kit is great! Looks great and helps the handling a bit (especially on my heavy convertible). Have to watch some driveway angles and speed bumps. I also have a ProChamber for a cross over pipe, which lowers my clearance a little so it affects me more. Pro is def better than Sportline for a DD.
The car I drove was a manual so it had 3.55’s in the rear. It felt good on the low end but the mid and high were incredible after driving a stock GT. The pull to redline was noticeably better. I am choosing the FRPP cams because they are no spring required cams and if you had a warranty existing at the time Ford would honor it since they’re Ford parts. I don’t plan to go forced induction (these are not necessarily a friendly blower cam) and they’re the most aggressive non-custom grind NA cam that again retains stock valve train. I daily drive my car and enjoy it, I don’t race it (although I would like to a few times) so going with a ridiculous set up isn’t necessary. Also, the aggressive lope at idle (which I originally didn’t want) is intoxicating and I love it.
The car I drove was a manual so it had 3.55’s in the rear. It felt good on the low end but the mid and high were incredible after driving a stock GT. The pull to redline was noticeably better. I am choosing the FRPP cams because they are no spring required cams and if you had a warranty existing at the time Ford would honor it since they’re Ford parts. I don’t plan to go forced induction (these are not necessarily a friendly blower cam) and they’re the most aggressive non-custom grind NA cam that again retains stock valve train. I daily drive my car and enjoy it, I don’t race it (although I would like to a few times) so going with a ridiculous set up isn’t necessary. Also, the aggressive lope at idle (which I originally didn’t want) is intoxicating and I love it.
#8
Yes you can run Hot Rods with 3.31's. The hot rods are nice sounding cam that doesn't affect much of the low end. The FRPP intake isn't just for hitting 7k, it has it benefits. It deletes the charge motion plates, and gives a boost on the top end. The argument is ... is it worth the $600 bucks... I thought so, and I love it.
#9
Yes you can run Hot Rods with 3.31's. The hot rods are nice sounding cam that doesn't affect much of the low end. The FRPP intake isn't just for hitting 7k, it has it benefits. It deletes the charge motion plates, and gives a boost on the top end. The argument is ... is it worth the $600 bucks... I thought so, and I love it.