GT/CS Auto noob. Please help me
#1
GT/CS Auto noob. Please help me
Yeap. I recently purchased an 2007 Mustang GT/CS Automatic with about 26,000 miles
This is my first Auto trans car... and my first American car. I drove and modded a Subaru for 8+ years. So more then a few things on these forums doesn't seem to make sense... i guess, can't explain it any better
And this forum seems to have a lot of knowledge in it. But I am uncertain that they apply to an Auto trans. I've spent time looking at parts to see how this differs from my previous car.
One mod that people seem to do early on is changing their gears. I see that mentioned a lot. But that doesn't apply to me does it???
And looking at many of the power adders such as superchargers, many are for manual only. Roush M90 seems to be one of the only superchargers offered for auto's (that I've seen) but keep seeing they are sort of small.
I have been looking and searching forums for better part of 2 months. But figured I'd just come out and ask the questions. And who knows. Maybe someone later on will be dealing with the same problems I am and this thread will help them
Any advice on starting mods for the auto would be helpful. Also don't want to do work twice (as in Cold air intake, then supercharger, and new intake to work with supercharger since old on doesn't).
Engine inside parts and before mods I need to do before supercharger?
Is path to greatness (lol) with auto really so different than manual?
Any advice and knowledge would be very helpful
This is my first Auto trans car... and my first American car. I drove and modded a Subaru for 8+ years. So more then a few things on these forums doesn't seem to make sense... i guess, can't explain it any better
And this forum seems to have a lot of knowledge in it. But I am uncertain that they apply to an Auto trans. I've spent time looking at parts to see how this differs from my previous car.
One mod that people seem to do early on is changing their gears. I see that mentioned a lot. But that doesn't apply to me does it???
And looking at many of the power adders such as superchargers, many are for manual only. Roush M90 seems to be one of the only superchargers offered for auto's (that I've seen) but keep seeing they are sort of small.
I have been looking and searching forums for better part of 2 months. But figured I'd just come out and ask the questions. And who knows. Maybe someone later on will be dealing with the same problems I am and this thread will help them
Any advice on starting mods for the auto would be helpful. Also don't want to do work twice (as in Cold air intake, then supercharger, and new intake to work with supercharger since old on doesn't).
Engine inside parts and before mods I need to do before supercharger?
Is path to greatness (lol) with auto really so different than manual?
Any advice and knowledge would be very helpful
#2
6th Gear Member
Gears can be changed on auto's and manuals but since the final drive ratio's are different, the gears respond a bit differently on each tranny. Also, if you do gears on an auto, you'll also benefit a bit more with a good custom tune to maximize/revise the shift points. You can also SC, regardless of auto or manual.
If you're not going to go FI, then you'll definitely want to get a CAI and good custom tune. The 05 thru 09 4.6l responds well with about a 20-25 RWHP gain as well as improved driveability.
If you're not going to go FI, then you'll definitely want to get a CAI and good custom tune. The 05 thru 09 4.6l responds well with about a 20-25 RWHP gain as well as improved driveability.
#3
There's plenty of f/i kits that can be installed on automatics. Some of them may require some tweaking to piping or fitment of parts due to the transmission cooling lines and/or the front-mounted transmission cooler. But otherwise, there's no reason to not run f/i.
In fact, ask any true bracket drag racer: they prefer an automatic.
I've used a Vortech and Kenne Bell with automatics.
Most mods can be applied to automatics as well as manuals. But, do your research before doing anything to be sure.
In fact, ask any true bracket drag racer: they prefer an automatic.
I've used a Vortech and Kenne Bell with automatics.
Most mods can be applied to automatics as well as manuals. But, do your research before doing anything to be sure.
#4
Thanks both of you. Very helpful
So after reading, it seems that the popular Gear to use on this auto is 4.10. Guessing that is the standard?
Also in engine internal work wise before getting SC? Depends on what SC?
Also I think it be smart if my first mod was infact (drum roll) an radar detector. Cops seem to be targeting me. Had one follow me for 20 mins last night. Anyone recommend a brand? Hardwire? Do i need laser blocker?
P.S. isn't catless illegal? why is everyone recommending that? Won't I fail inspection?
So after reading, it seems that the popular Gear to use on this auto is 4.10. Guessing that is the standard?
Also in engine internal work wise before getting SC? Depends on what SC?
Also I think it be smart if my first mod was infact (drum roll) an radar detector. Cops seem to be targeting me. Had one follow me for 20 mins last night. Anyone recommend a brand? Hardwire? Do i need laser blocker?
P.S. isn't catless illegal? why is everyone recommending that? Won't I fail inspection?
#5
Deleting your cats is technically wrong.
But it won't necessarily fail you at emissions depending on how they test.
Here they just do the OBDII test and pretend to use a mirror to look for your cats.
With the tune you get you can specify that it's an off road (catless) midpipe and they'll turn the rear O2 sensors off. No codes thrown and you're good.
That's how it is here anyway.
But it won't necessarily fail you at emissions depending on how they test.
Here they just do the OBDII test and pretend to use a mirror to look for your cats.
With the tune you get you can specify that it's an off road (catless) midpipe and they'll turn the rear O2 sensors off. No codes thrown and you're good.
That's how it is here anyway.
#6
Thanks for explaining
That's how it works here... or supposed too anyway. Few years ago I drove an 2004 WRX STI. During inspection, they attempted to fail me for my hood scoop. The same hood scoop that comes from factory and was on all WRX STI's.
So part of me says if they were willing to fail me for something that is factory, then they will fail me for something that's not
Certainly something I need to think over
That's how it works here... or supposed too anyway. Few years ago I drove an 2004 WRX STI. During inspection, they attempted to fail me for my hood scoop. The same hood scoop that comes from factory and was on all WRX STI's.
So part of me says if they were willing to fail me for something that is factory, then they will fail me for something that's not
Certainly something I need to think over
#7
[QUOTE=xocolleenox;8354881With the tune you get you can specify that it's an off road (catless) midpipe and they'll turn the rear O2 sensors off. No codes thrown and you're good. [/QUOTE]
Not necessarily. In fact, MOST of the time this occurs, the tune has the rear sensors off, and you'll fail inspection for having too many "Not Ready" OBDII monitors. This depends on your local inspection laws and criteria for emissions testing. For example, here in my part of Texas, we can have one Not Ready and still pass the OBDII emissions part of an inspection. With proper tuning and setup, that can be achieved. Turning off the rear O2 sensors and being done is not what works here, it'll give you 3 Not Ready conditions and the car will fail.
Of course you also have to pass visual inspection, and if they look and see no cats due to an offroad exhaust setup, they certainly can fail you for that.
I recommend that you do your research, look around, and understand the criteria you must meet to pass inspection, and research what mods can be done while allowing you to pass.
Not necessarily. In fact, MOST of the time this occurs, the tune has the rear sensors off, and you'll fail inspection for having too many "Not Ready" OBDII monitors. This depends on your local inspection laws and criteria for emissions testing. For example, here in my part of Texas, we can have one Not Ready and still pass the OBDII emissions part of an inspection. With proper tuning and setup, that can be achieved. Turning off the rear O2 sensors and being done is not what works here, it'll give you 3 Not Ready conditions and the car will fail.
Of course you also have to pass visual inspection, and if they look and see no cats due to an offroad exhaust setup, they certainly can fail you for that.
I recommend that you do your research, look around, and understand the criteria you must meet to pass inspection, and research what mods can be done while allowing you to pass.
#8
Greg, I live in Dover and run a 2005 4.6L 3V with no cats and passed inspection. I am also lowered, have sequential lighting, and have a different front grill where my fog lights are hidden behind it. No issues.
If you're on FaceBook, head over to https://www.facebook.com/MidAtlanticMustangs to meet up with a bunch of us local guys.
If you're on FaceBook, head over to https://www.facebook.com/MidAtlanticMustangs to meet up with a bunch of us local guys.
Last edited by JCON; 03-02-2014 at 06:24 PM.
#9
Thanks again for all the help guys
I think catted will be best for me. But as I understand it, a new x-pipe will make my car louder regardless of catless or catted.
Is there any actual performance gain to be had with a new axel back exhaust? I understand that aftermarket axel back exhaust add sound and maybe looks, but is there any gains over the factory one? If I went long headers, shorty x-pipe to factory muffler, would I see any real gains replacing factory muffler with new axel back? Hope that makes sense
Also auto trans question. When I drove standard trans and you added power, you'd get new clutch to support more power. What exactly do you do with auto trans. Don't want to add power, hit the gas on highway and go to lower gear then boom lol. What do you do with auto trans when adding more power?
I think catted will be best for me. But as I understand it, a new x-pipe will make my car louder regardless of catless or catted.
Is there any actual performance gain to be had with a new axel back exhaust? I understand that aftermarket axel back exhaust add sound and maybe looks, but is there any gains over the factory one? If I went long headers, shorty x-pipe to factory muffler, would I see any real gains replacing factory muffler with new axel back? Hope that makes sense
Also auto trans question. When I drove standard trans and you added power, you'd get new clutch to support more power. What exactly do you do with auto trans. Don't want to add power, hit the gas on highway and go to lower gear then boom lol. What do you do with auto trans when adding more power?
#10
4.10s with an auto is fine, I run them. I also have the Roush m90 and its awesome. One thing to consider when adding a blower with an auto. The auto is good to about 450 ft/lbs of torque. Beyond that is potentially boom boom time. Kickdowns are what will kill this tranny. Downshifting more than one gear is really bad especially if your heavily modded like I am. A PA deep pan and a JDM trans catch can are must haves for hard driven autos IMO.
The cai and tune from AM or Brenspeed will really wake up the auto too. Your car will shift much firmer and even chirp second and third gears with just that mod. Car drives like an entirely new car when tuned. Goes from slushbox to woohoo!!
The cai and tune from AM or Brenspeed will really wake up the auto too. Your car will shift much firmer and even chirp second and third gears with just that mod. Car drives like an entirely new car when tuned. Goes from slushbox to woohoo!!