Whipple supercharged radiator refill question
#1
Whipple supercharged radiator refill question
I have a 2007 GT with the 550 HP Ford racing Whipple supercharger system
I have been having cooling issues.
I just swapped out the stock radiator for a Afco unit (twice the core size) at the same time I installed a Reische 170 degree thermostat.
I refilled the radiator through the resevoir ran the car refilled again. Took it out for a drive and added coolant until it stayed full.
The new system is having issues keeping the engine cool.
I have read on the Reische site that the system should actually be refilled through a plug in the crossover tube.
The tube they show doesn't exist on my application. In stead there is a large cast aluminum crossover with a small plug at the top. This plug has a tapered set screw.
What would be the procedure to ensure the system is full of coolant and the air is burped out of the system with my setup? Any assistance is appreciated
I was surprised to see 190-196 degrees with the low temp thermostat and that monster radiator.. Considering I was driving it around in 0 degree celsius temps....
I have been having cooling issues.
I just swapped out the stock radiator for a Afco unit (twice the core size) at the same time I installed a Reische 170 degree thermostat.
I refilled the radiator through the resevoir ran the car refilled again. Took it out for a drive and added coolant until it stayed full.
The new system is having issues keeping the engine cool.
I have read on the Reische site that the system should actually be refilled through a plug in the crossover tube.
The tube they show doesn't exist on my application. In stead there is a large cast aluminum crossover with a small plug at the top. This plug has a tapered set screw.
What would be the procedure to ensure the system is full of coolant and the air is burped out of the system with my setup? Any assistance is appreciated
I was surprised to see 190-196 degrees with the low temp thermostat and that monster radiator.. Considering I was driving it around in 0 degree celsius temps....
#2
I'm assuming the cross-over with the bleeder valve is the one that was supplied with the whipple kit? If so, wouldn't you just use the bleeder valve to bleed out the air the same way as it was done when the kit was installed. The bleeder valve on my cross-over worked beautifully, just make sure you have lots of rags handy to keep coolant from spraying all over the place. Also don't leave the valve open too long, the metal surrounding the bleeder screw actually melted on mine when I left it open for too long. Fortunately I was able to get it closed, but it's probably welded shout now. I guess the other options would be the incline/burp method: take the rad cap off, run the car and squeeze the upper rad hose several dozen times until you can't feel any air pockets in there AND/OR run the vehicle with the rad cap off and heat cranked up while parked on a steep incline.
I know whipple suggest using a bottle or 2 of that WetterWater stuff, I doubt that would address the issue, but it probably wouldn’t hurt if it’s a new radiator. I believe it’s supposed to help the coolant bond better with new metal or something like that?
I know whipple suggest using a bottle or 2 of that WetterWater stuff, I doubt that would address the issue, but it probably wouldn’t hurt if it’s a new radiator. I believe it’s supposed to help the coolant bond better with new metal or something like that?
#3
Don't use the recommended fan settings in the Reische 170 t-stat instructions, they are way too high. If you have a handheld tuner and it allows you to do this, set your low speed fan for 182-184 and high speed to 188-190.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Boostaddict
Lethal Performance
2
09-08-2015 09:56 PM