P1000 & P 430 Codes
 

Once in a while my GT throws the p0430 for bank 2 (have headers and high flow catted x). Before, it wasnt really a problem to me. NOW, its starting to get annoying... because my inspection is expired and I cannot pass for a new one.

Whenever I plug in my tuner and clear the p0430, it clears all the data for the catalyst, EVAP, and other monitors that are checked here in New York. Then it throws the p1000 and it wont pass inspection testing because "the systems arent ready". I didn't know that... anyone have a way to clear this p1000? I've read about the Ford Drive Cycle, but is there a simpler way?

Do a search, there's several solutions to this and the P0420 code.
Easiest is to get a spark plug anti-fouler and put it between the driver-side rear O2 sensor and the hole it mounts into. That moves the sensor out of the stream enough to not trigger the code in most cases. (P0430 is driver side, P0420 passenger side).

Is there any way I can use my Sct Sf3 tuner to change the ECU from reading bank 2? I don't want it to come on again during a drive cycle

Also, should I go underneath and swap the sensors? That way I could test and see if one of then is just on its way out. Unless there's another way of telling.

Try the non-foulers and put them on both banks. You cannot rig your tuner to stop the codes. Bear in mind that the non-foulers didn't work for me when I was using the hi flow cats. I even doubled them up and no dice. I had to switch to Kooks Green cats to keep the 0420 & 0430 codes away and pass OBDII insp.

P0430 is your camshaft position sensor. It doesn't matter what bank it is cause there is nothing wrong with it. It is your alternator. Replace your alternator and all will go away. I drove on mine for three years with the codes. Then driving down the highway in the middle of nowhere it died.

If you need to pass inspection there are some ways to clear codes and make them not come up for a brief period. But the solution is within your alternator.

For the headers, if you are not tuned, it needs one. You can put anti foulers and such on but they do not always work. The computer needs to delay it's O2 sensor reading. Moving the O2 sensor down stream slightly makes the sensor warm slower which throws off the computer.

So the solution to your problem is a tune and alternator. If you already have a tune for the headers, then some other things come in play.

No, p0340 is the camshaft sensor error code...p0430 is catalyst efficiency bank 2.

you could swap the sensors, clear the codes, do a few drive cycles, and see what it does; that's not a bad idea, but most likely, the 430 will return. If it changes to a p0420, then you know the sensor is flaky.

I hope it's just a bad sensor. This has been happening since last year when I put these in. I've never gotten a code for the right side cat yet. Im going to swap them and see what happens.

For a while now though, I've had an exhaust leak I believe at the end of my X to the overaxles, and my suspicion is the drivers side because I smell it a little while at a red light. Would this cause the code?

that's the second time lately I've transposed numbers for CELs.....crap..

Lol its no big deal everyone makes mistakes.

That might actually help me Simon1... I've been getting random shutdowns (P2105) and P2135 persistant CEL with P0340, and (forget the #s atm, but fan #2 ckt and evap purge ckt).... I wonder if it IS the alternator... though my voltages are all good... weird

What are the possible reasons that I keep getting the p0430 code (bank 2) every 70 miles? I never get the other side, it's always the drivers side that lights up and my car needs an inspection now!

So I was looking around to see what others have said. The answer I am not sure about what it is, partially because no one really can without experimenting, but I also because I do not know what is in your signature is a total list of your mods.

My hunch about the P0430 code has to do with the tune. The rear O2 sensors should probably be turned off and the heat cycle on front O2s should be adjusted too for long tubes. If your tune is as it should be, then your cat maybe bad, which, unless you have ran a two step on your car or dumped a ton of fuel through or ran really really rich for a while, they should be fine.

Since my car has been tuned, the rear sensors have been off. They are not needed to have the car run correctly. It's part of the emissions requirements that help point out when something else upstream is not working correctly.

I would confirm your tune is correct with whomever tuned it for all of your mods and go from there.

Also, I have seen certain Hi flow go bad rather quickly with a poor, overly rich tune.

Here is what I found regarding your tune. For the part I have in bold below, they way is was explained to me is that since the sensor is moved downstream, it takes longer for the actual sensor to heat up to normal operating range. A tuner will extend the time a sensor is allowed to heat up to proper operating temperature so it can take a proper reading. It is probably more complicated than that but's how I understand it.

"A code P0430 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
The catalytic converter is no longer functioning properly
An oxygen sensor is not reading (functioning) properly
There is an exhaust leak
Possible Solutions

The simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.
Then inspect for exhaust leaks.
Next step is to measure the voltage at the oxygen sensor on Bank 2 (the passenger side rear sensor, or the sensor after the converter). The voltage should be low and steady (~200mV, depends on the vehicle). If the voltage varies (e.g. 100mV to 600mV) then it's time to replace the catalytic converter. In fact, it would be a good idea to test each oxygen O2 sensor while you're at it.
One thing to note is that many vehicle manufacturers offer a longer warranty on emissions-related parts. So if you have a newer car but it's out of it's bumper-to-bumper warranty, there still may be warranty on this type of problem. Many manufacturers give a five year, unlimited mileage warranty on these items. It's worth checking into."

The only performance altering mods I have are a Cold air intake, longtube headers, high flow catalytic X, and a BAMA tune which is at "91 octane street" for a long time. I was thinking of putting the stock intake back on and flashing the ECU to stock programming until I pass inpection.. would this fix the p0430 for a while?

I thought It was a problem with the tune but I haven't changed anything in a year, and since like March I've been seeing this code alot more often. It baffles me. How would I know if my car has been running rich?

I plugged in my tuner and computer to read the 02 sensor voltages, and the graph made no sense. It actually reads that BOTH cats are "failing" because the voltages are within the .2 to .8v range and the downstream sensors read the same... BUT I've never gotten p0420!! Btw, this catted mid pipe has about 2k miles on it.. my car isn't an everyday driver and it sits around more in the winter. 'll post a snapshot as soon as I get home with the graph.

If its possible for the ECU to bypass both downstream 02 sensors then I'd just rather go with that route. I think what you mentioned about the sensor needing more time to heat up definitely is being effected by the exhaust leak at the end of the mid pipe.

The exhaust leak, if it's at the end of the midpipe wouldn't effect the heat cycle as the sensor is or should be in your headers, quite a ways upstream.

Also, if your car ran fine for a long time with that tune and then something went goofy, I would suspect it's mechanical.

If it were my car, I would start at the air intake, clean the MAF, check all the fittings, check from the headers all the way past the sensors for leaks, then contact your tuner and see what they say. A data log may show it, may not. If none of that doesn't work, I would find a specialty shop to look at it. If you take your car to a Ford dealership they will freak out because all of your values will be off because of the tune.

I would also ask if the rear sensors are off and if not, should they be.

You will get it fixed. I have gone through worse and it's very frustrating.

Yes the leak is at the end of the mid pipe, but the sensor causing the p0430 is in the midpipe right after the catalytic converter, about 18" maybe, from the end of the pipe where my leak is. The sensor in the header is working. This started happening aftee moving around my mufflers and over axles because they were all off center and sloppy looking.

Do you mean clean the maf sensor that's in the intake tube? Thanks for the help btw. And everyone else too.

Your high flow cats just aren't cutting it anymore. How old are they? There is only so much catalyst material in there (it is just sprayed on the honeycomb stuff inside the cat) and it gets used up after awhile. If you don't have emissions OBDII inspection just have Bama shut off the rear O2's in the tune - no more 0420's & 0430's. If you do have OBDII inspection, you will have to have the rear O2's turned on and have new hi-flows (for a short term fix) or Kooks Green Cats (long term fix) spliced in.

Yes the MAF sensor in your intake. I really don't think it's it, but it could be.

An extreme example: When I blew my motor all sorts of fluids went up through the top end and coated my MAF. The guy who built my motor was supposed to have cleaned my intercooler and piping, along with my MAF. During normal maintenance I cleaned the air filter and MAF, It was coated with a thick slimy dried film made of whatever had coated it. Well the car would run correctly afterwards, A/F went below 10.0, missed, lack of power. I had to pay $500 to another tuner and it was fixed. Probably not your issue but it is something that should be cleaned semi regularly.

If your problem started right after your exhaust adjustment, that's where I would look around too.

What a conundrum.

This /\ /\ /\

Bought the shorty catted x with the headers a year ago today. And since my car isn't a daily driver it only has 2k miles, maybe less, 1500 miles. Here in New York we have emissions. What I can't figure out though is why I don't get 0420, and have never gotten it actually. I only get 0430. Starting to feel like my left cat is defective.. or the exhaust leak at the end of the midpipe is causing this.

Ok. What should I use, intake cleaner?

I'm going to fix the leak and hope for the best. It's just a little strange to me that this would be the problem.

Is the rear O2 located in the middle of the cat or behind the cat? If its in the middle I don't think the leak would cause the code, but if the sensor is behind the cat then the leak is possibly the culprit.
I used to get 0420's & 0430's in all combinations of the two -sometimes one or the other, or sometimes both at the same time. The PCM's do not only look at signal strength to set a code.

The 02 sensor is after the cat.

UPDATE: jacked up the car, and undid the clamps that connect the midpipe to the overaxles. There was a .5" gap between the 2 pipes on the passenger side, and barely any on the driver's side where the problem exists, maybe 1/8". I doubt this leak is the cause...

Also, just spoke to a rep from Bama, they said there's not much they can help with when it comes to emissions inspections. They recommended anti-foulers and that's about all the help I received.

Try doubled up non-foulers, they might just do the trick for you. They wouldn't work for me but I am cammed & boosted. If they work, its an easy cheap fix.

Definitely going to try either those or J dungs [if that's the correct name]. A friend told me about them they're basically an L-shaped non-fouler. Anyone know the proper name? Anyone know What size would fit for an 06 mustang? Found some on jegs.com for like $5, they have 18 mm and 14mm.

Unless anyone has a recommendation on where to get them

Well good news. I did 2 things recently: swapped the 02 sensors from bank to bank to see if one of the senors were faulty, and fixed my exhaust leak (somewhat). And I say somewhat because I can still smell exhaust while idling at a red light, just a little though. Anyway, I guess the .5" gap in between the midpipe and over axle on the passenger side, as well as the small 1/8" maybe on the drivers, was the cause of the p0430.

Congrats and very interesting.

It's strange. I guess the slightest change of temperature or exhaust amount in the pipes made the difference.