Synchrmesh VS Mobil 1 ATF
06-15-2018, 09:51 AM
#1
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Location: MA
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Synchrmesh VS Mobil 1 ATF
I know this thread has been done before, but Im looking for some NEW perspective on the matter. I've read a ton of threads and narrowed it down to Mobil 1, or Synchromesh.
I guess my main question is does the Synchromesh makes your trans run quieter and smoother!?
Right now my 3650 (running Mobil 1 ATF) sounds like a damn tractor at idle, especially with the AC on, its pretty annoying/embarassing to explain to people "its normal." To the guys/gals out there who have tried one/both, I would love to hear your input. Should I switch out the Mobil 1 to Synchromesh, or keep it in there. Shifts buttah smooth, just noisy as hell.
I guess my main question is does the Synchromesh makes your trans run quieter and smoother!?
Right now my 3650 (running Mobil 1 ATF) sounds like a damn tractor at idle, especially with the AC on, its pretty annoying/embarassing to explain to people "its normal." To the guys/gals out there who have tried one/both, I would love to hear your input. Should I switch out the Mobil 1 to Synchromesh, or keep it in there. Shifts buttah smooth, just noisy as hell.
06-15-2018, 12:33 PM
#2
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Join Date: Dec 2012
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Forgot to mention, I have a 4.0 with GT drivetrain.. So maybe its a little bit worse than the average GT, though idk for sure. One possibility Ive thought of is the adapter plate for the bellhousing is aluminum (which is awesome), but Im wordering if that may contribute to the idle noise and the noise I have under load at low rpm's. Maybe a cast iron adapter plate wouldnt vibrate as bad, just a thought.
06-15-2018, 01:56 PM
#3
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If the car sounds like a tractor at idle, how is fluid type going to change that?
You're not in gear, nothing is "meshing" in the trans at idle, in neutral or out of
gear. Something else is wrong, and it's going to be what's inside the bell
housing.
IF the clutch is released, and you're in neutral, and the input shaft is making noise,
then there's a problem. If this noise is there even if you have the clutch disengaged,
then it's before the transmission. Fluid isn't going to change it either way.
Turning on the A/C ads a load to the engine, not the transmission, clutch, or any drive plate.
SO, if the noise gets worse at idle, out of gear, then you need to have the motor looked at.
If this is while in gear, and driving, then it's vibration amplification somewhere. Still, no fluid
is going to change that.
In any case, fluid is not going to deaden any noise from outside its internals.
Syncromesh is a better fluid, and can be got in 5W30 weight too (Amsoil).
This is a MTF, not ATF.
Syncromesh is mainly for GM, but a guy at the Ford dealer said you can run GM
synchromesh, no friction modifier.
Thicker oil doesn't protect better. You need the lighter ATF for these transmissions to
ensure proper lubrication.
From TREMEC:
You're not in gear, nothing is "meshing" in the trans at idle, in neutral or out of
gear. Something else is wrong, and it's going to be what's inside the bell
housing.
IF the clutch is released, and you're in neutral, and the input shaft is making noise,
then there's a problem. If this noise is there even if you have the clutch disengaged,
then it's before the transmission. Fluid isn't going to change it either way.
Turning on the A/C ads a load to the engine, not the transmission, clutch, or any drive plate.
SO, if the noise gets worse at idle, out of gear, then you need to have the motor looked at.
If this is while in gear, and driving, then it's vibration amplification somewhere. Still, no fluid
is going to change that.
In any case, fluid is not going to deaden any noise from outside its internals.
Syncromesh is a better fluid, and can be got in 5W30 weight too (Amsoil).
This is a MTF, not ATF.
Syncromesh is mainly for GM, but a guy at the Ford dealer said you can run GM
synchromesh, no friction modifier.
Thicker oil doesn't protect better. You need the lighter ATF for these transmissions to
ensure proper lubrication.
From TREMEC:
Due to various synchronizer materials used in TREMEC transmissions, and different climates and applications, no one single fluid will work for all transmissions. For example, fluids that are high in sulfur content may damage the surface of brass blocker rings found in many transmissions, while some oils may damage the bonding material used in carbon fiber papers. Heavy weight oils generally provide better lubrication to bearing surfaces; however they may cause harder shifts, particularly in cold weather.
Recommended oil change intervals should be based on specific usage. In most cases a “fill for life” is adequate, while in severe applications such as drag racing, or road racing a more frequent fluid change should be prescribed. Excessive heat will cause most fluids to breakdown and ultimately cause damage to the transmission. The transmission should be filled through the fill plug located on the side of the transmission. Proper fill level is achieved once the oil reaches the fill hole. Recommended fluids by transmission model are listed below:
TR-3550 / TKO
GM Synchromesh has proven to provide the best performance for these transmissions, which use brass synchronizers.
T-5, T-56, TR-3650
These transmissions use a combination of brass, carbon fiber and paper-lined synchronizers. An ATF fluid such as Dexron III will provide the best results.
Recommended oil change intervals should be based on specific usage. In most cases a “fill for life” is adequate, while in severe applications such as drag racing, or road racing a more frequent fluid change should be prescribed. Excessive heat will cause most fluids to breakdown and ultimately cause damage to the transmission. The transmission should be filled through the fill plug located on the side of the transmission. Proper fill level is achieved once the oil reaches the fill hole. Recommended fluids by transmission model are listed below:
TR-3550 / TKO
GM Synchromesh has proven to provide the best performance for these transmissions, which use brass synchronizers.
T-5, T-56, TR-3650
These transmissions use a combination of brass, carbon fiber and paper-lined synchronizers. An ATF fluid such as Dexron III will provide the best results.
06-15-2018, 04:22 PM
#4
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: MA
Posts: 113
If the car sounds like a tractor at idle, how is fluid type going to change that?
You're not in gear, nothing is "meshing" in the trans at idle, in neutral or out of
gear. Something else is wrong, and it's going to be what's inside the bell
housing.
IF the clutch is released, and you're in neutral, and the input shaft is making noise,
then there's a problem. If this noise is there even if you have the clutch disengaged,
then it's before the transmission. Fluid isn't going to change it either way.
Turning on the A/C ads a load to the engine, not the transmission, clutch, or any drive plate.
SO, if the noise gets worse at idle, out of gear, then you need to have the motor looked at.
If this is while in gear, and driving, then it's vibration amplification somewhere. Still, no fluid
is going to change that.
In any case, fluid is not going to deaden any noise from outside its internals.
Syncromesh is a better fluid, and can be got in 5W30 weight too (Amsoil).
This is a MTF, not ATF.
From TREMEC:
You're not in gear, nothing is "meshing" in the trans at idle, in neutral or out of
gear. Something else is wrong, and it's going to be what's inside the bell
housing.
IF the clutch is released, and you're in neutral, and the input shaft is making noise,
then there's a problem. If this noise is there even if you have the clutch disengaged,
then it's before the transmission. Fluid isn't going to change it either way.
Turning on the A/C ads a load to the engine, not the transmission, clutch, or any drive plate.
SO, if the noise gets worse at idle, out of gear, then you need to have the motor looked at.
If this is while in gear, and driving, then it's vibration amplification somewhere. Still, no fluid
is going to change that.
In any case, fluid is not going to deaden any noise from outside its internals.
Syncromesh is a better fluid, and can be got in 5W30 weight too (Amsoil).
This is a MTF, not ATF.
From TREMEC:
My trans is freshly rebuilt, new clutch/associated parts, and my engine never had any issues/noises with the T5 behind it.. It (the T5) just sucked.
Im not pretending to be an expert here, isnt stuff still spinning/rotating while trans is in neutral? Last I checked, it sounded like the noise came from the "heart" of the trans, not the bellhousing area.. But that was before trans rebuild.
With the clutch disengaged (pedal down) everything is dead silent, engine purrs nicely. Even if Im in neutral and I just push the shifter towards a gear (any of them), the noise drastically reduces.
06-15-2018, 05:33 PM
#6
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: MA
Posts: 113
I will do that. I always heard the 3650 was a loud biatch of a trans.. Is this typical, or have things changed? (Via updates/etc). Again, idk if my symptoms are twice as bad cause its a 3650 on a 4.0, but man it is obnoxious. Only when its hot though, cold its pretty quiet .
06-15-2018, 06:25 PM
#7
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Pennsylvania
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Does it sound like this?
Seems to be common.
Most say it's the throw out bearing, but when replaced it didn't change. One guy said
he was embarrassed to idle at a stop light, so he'd keep the clutch pedal pushed in so
it would not make so much noise.
Another guy said he went with a syncromesh/Lucas combo, and it's almost gone.
06-15-2018, 08:14 PM
#8
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: MA
Posts: 113
Does it sound like this?
https://youtu.be/3nAS7bnCgE8Seems to be common.
Most say it's the throw out bearing, but when replaced it didn't change. One guy said
he was embarrassed to idle at a stop light, so he'd keep the clutch pedal pushed in so
it would not make so much noise.
Another guy said he went with a syncromesh/Lucas combo, and it's almost gone.
I feel like the aluminum adapter for the bellhousing may make the noise even more pronounced, just because it is less dense/heavy, and prone to more rattling/vibration.
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