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Will this get me similar results? Questions regarding horsepower gains
so I know this is posted about constantly, the reason I am making a new post is because a lot of the info I am seeing really doesn’t pertain to my question. I have a 2006 gt. Stock now. I would like to get around 300whp. Seems like a tune, cai, and exhaust will get you there. So I have two questions, first is it really worth it to buy midpipes or can I just punch out the cats on the stock ones? I have done it before on iron blocks but I can’t find any info regarding newer cars. It seems to me that I will get the same results (or close enough to them for my purposes) by just punching out the cats and saving the money. Also, since I am making a thread, I am planning on a cai, tune, axle backs, and (possibly) “no” cats. I don’t plan on getting headers really. I think I can get close to where I’d like without them. But I am also thinking of running nitrous too. Probably a 100 shot. Just for the occasional drag race, or just for a little extra fun. But I’ve never used no2 before. I am concerned with reliability and ease of use. I would want to set it up and use it when I wanted and forget about it when I don’t want it. Can it be set up that way? I probably just don’t understand it enough. But better to ask anyway. Thanks guys. I appreciate any info y’all have |
You can reach 300rwhp with the stock midpipe. All you need is a cold air intake, underdrive pulleys, charge motion delete plates, and a custom 91 octane tune:
http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/Mustang2006GT/Dyno.html If you want to remove thee cats, it's better to get an offroad midpipe rather than gut the stock cats, You can keep the stock midpipe as a spare in case the emission laws become more strict about deleting the cats. |
Parasitic Loss:
Manual - 7%, automatic -15% Underdrive pulley system (UDP) DOES NOT ADD horsepower, it frees up the engine's existing power by reducing parasitic loss at the accessory pulleys. It does not add the 10HP to the crank, adds it to WHP. STOCK: With a tune and CAI, you can get 286 WHP, and 312 RWTorque easy. Then, with the UDP set, mid to high 290s. You can get 300 without any major mechanical changes. |
Ok. That is a bit different than what I have heard elsewhere. But good. I am hesitant to get UDPs because it is hot here in oklahoma and I like my ac running at full capacity. I’m not a fan of heat. But I will look into them anyway because parts are expensive and they add up quick and UDPs are cheap. I will be going with a 91 octane tune. I have never seen a pump with 93 in oklahoma. But I figure that won’t make so much difference. Thanks for the info. Those dyno graphs are cool too |
Originally Posted by 08'MustangDude
(Post 8628291)
Parasitic Loss:
Manual - 7%, automatic -15% Underdrive pulley system (UDP) DOES NOT ADD horsepower, it frees up the engine's existing power by reducing parasitic loss at the accessory pulleys. It does not add the 10HP to the crank, adds it to WHP. 2. Underdrive pulleys reduce parasitic engine HP losses from belt-driven accessories, thus increasing net crank HP (and wheel HP). Same goes for installing an electric water pump or running the engine without a drivebelt. 3. Since a lightweight flywheel and a lightweight driveshaft are behind the crankshaft, net crank HP remains unchanged but parasitic drivetrain losses are reduced, and a bigger percentage of the crank HP is transmitted to the wheels. 4. My AC works fine in a hot climate even with the underdrive pulleys. |
Really? That’s good to know. I read a lot of conflicting information. I will look into underdrive pulleys then.
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