GT Nate

Are our torque converters in the 2010 Mustang GT's electronically controlled? I've been having some rare instances where I push the gas pedal and no movement for about 1/2 a second then boom it lurches and goes normally.

I've ordered a new gas pedal and throttle body, but I'm wondering do we have electronically controlled TC's?


Wondering if there's something in the tranny I should be looking out for.

Thanks guys!
Nate

Buck Sergeant

In the S-197 Mustangs there have been two automatic transmissions: 2005 through 2010 had the 5R55S five speed, and 2011 onward come with the 6R80 six speed unit. Both are electronically controlled transmission units with lockup torque converters. It sounds to me the problem could be a damaged torque convertor. Maybe a few impellas got damaged during a hard launch.

Derf00

You have the same 5r55s as the 05-09. How many miles you have on the car? When was the last time you had the transmission fluid flushed (not just drained and refilled)?

Do not follow ford's 100K mile recommendation, follow the severe duty 30K cycle. The TC is not directly electronically controlled but the valve body is. There's a solenoid pack mounted under the tranny pan and on top of the valve body that is sensitive to crud build up in fluid. If you don't have a check engine light, you may still want to have the car scanned with a scanner than can read transmissions codes. Just like OBDII codes, there can be pending codes within the PCM for the transmission. If that is clear then you do not have a significant problem, yet. Fluid flush it. If that doesn't' resolve it, you're probably looking at a Solenoid pack that's on its way out and/or valve body with worn valves. Only fix for either is to replace them and they recommend replacing them both at the same time.

The reason is that the Solenoids are PWM (pulse width modulated) so they open/close at different rates depending on temp, load, tranny pressure etc. Over time they can get stucky or lose some of their responsiveness thus the "no movement for 1/2 second, then lurching forward". Also, if the valves are worn in the valve body they leak pressure so the fluid pressure needs to build up enough to move the valve, again, same thing could happen.

Buck Sergeant

GT Nate, do what Derf00 suggests BEFORE you get into the converter damaged mode. I only race full competition cars and always suspect the most critical solution to a performance problem.

GT Nate

I doubt a broken impeller blade, I'd think it'd start to tear up real quick as impellers started hitting into the other parts of the TC.

I had Ford do a full proper flush about a month ago. Car has 64K mileage. They hooked it up to the cooler lines, ran detergent through it then a full refill of proper fluid. Did it at the recommended time, according to the owner's manual. When I'm driving, shifts fine, no issues... I think my throttle body motor is going bad, or my accelerator pedal position sensor is wearing out. Both of which I've bought new ones coming in soon to replace.
Oh BTW during the flush they ran it through the gears to get the internals moving. What came out was cruddy brown.

Thanks for the replies guys, it helps a lot!

Derf00

Unusual at 64K but then again, so is 85K for blowing out a 5r55s like I did

bl817

does it happen after cruising at the same speed for a bit of time? JW

GT Nate

the new throttle body and foot pedal seemed to have solved the issue...no delays.

My new gas pedal arrived with a broken electrical connector piece. So I swapped it out with my old one.. gave the old one a good swabbing with rubbing alcohol and put it in. There was some carbon buildup, but the cleaning worked.

Car runs like a top.

Norm Peterson

Thanks for this. I've known that ATs these days used solenoids instead of "hydraulic logic" but never guessed that those solenoids could be anything but binary, either all the way applied or all the way not applied.

IOW, something that would probably start happening sooner with dirty fluid, hence a shorter service interval for severe service.


Norm