2.3 Tech Articles - Page 2 - MustangForums.com



4 Cylinder NA and Turbo This section is for questions pertaining to stock or modified 4 cylinders, including the performance 2.3L applications

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Old 10-03-2007, 08:46 AM   #11
sleeper_inc
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Default RE: 2.3 Tech Articles

Wiring a P series VAM into a 88-90 Mustang
(this is for when your doing a 2.3 turbo swap with a computer other than a LA, LB, 8UA series)



[/size][/size] [/align]Splice into/connect the VRef (orange/white) to the wire going to pin 26 of the stock harness (also orange/white). (I say splice into/connect the wire running into the engine bay. This is because pin 26 is being used by the TPS, MAP, and EGR.)




Remove Pin Connector #3 from LX wire harness red block (or take one from your harness you salvaged, and put this pin connector and wire into the red block of your LX harness to plug into your Pin 43 position on the P series computer. The LX harness lacks this connecting pin).



Connect the VAF (white/black) to the wire going to pin 43 of the stock harness (the new connecting pin you just put in)




Connect the VAT (vain air temp) to pin connector #27 (this can be found at your EGR Valve position sensor) Now move that pin #27 to pin #25 and move #25 to an area with no pin (this is the ACT sensor which only the PE, and 87-88 turbo coupe computers can use)




Splice into/"T" connect the VAM signal return (black/white) wire into the LX harness (black/white) wire that goes to pin 46. Do not cut the LX harness (black/white) wire going into pin 46, simply connect this VAM signal return black/white wire to it.

Last edited by sleeper_inc; 09-18-2008 at 10:30 AM.
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Old 10-13-2007, 09:35 PM   #12
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Default RE: 2.3 Tech Articles

Boost Leak Tester
I cant take any credit for this... it was MG man and i am just posting it cause it might be useful for people. So every thing here is all MG man... not me
Quote:
Build this from junk laying around. all it is is pvc pipe plugs, A adjustable air regulator, and some rubber tubing. Tubing and fitting I am using is used in the fountain beverage system but any pressure type hose and brass fittings will work. Just drill proper hole in caps, thread it, put fitting in and hook hose to it. Pressurize to 10 psi or less and use soap bubbles to find any leak. WARNING do not go over 10 psi. I tried at 25 psi and had fitting blow out and hit me. I was extremely luck.Any of you building a intercooler system need to do this. You will be surprized how many leaks you find. And since air is measured at vam any air leak will cause running and performance problems.
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Old 10-13-2007, 10:19 PM   #13
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Default RE: 2.3 Tech Articles


Quote:
ORIGINAL: sleeper_inc

All info is below the pictures

...........................................

Re-connect the battery, flip the switch and see if its pulling right. If not then you have to switch the wiring over so it will run the right way.

I'm sorry but that wiring looks like crap! Also 12v WILL NOT shock you at all.
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Old 10-13-2007, 11:09 PM   #14
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Default RE: 2.3 Tech Articles

Quote:
ORIGINAL: nismotunedgtr


Quote:
ORIGINAL: sleeper_inc

All info is below the pictures

...........................................

Re-connect the battery, flip the switch and see if its pulling right. If not then you have to switch the wiring over so it will run the right way.

I'm sorry but that wiring looks like crap! Also 12v WILL NOT shock you at all.
I wanna see you do it in a store parking lot with an overheated car then[8D]
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Old 11-12-2007, 05:24 PM   #15
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Default RE: 2.3 Tech Articles

This is for people stuck using the 87-90 mustang A4LD with a computer that wont support it... (most 2.3 turbo computers, also a good upgrade for a 79-86 2.3 mustang to I guess)

How to get CCL (Clutch Converter Lock-up) on a A4LD without the computer
First, to let you on a little back ground info. The 87-90 mustang A4LD is all hydraulic 1-2, 2-3, and even 3-4 shifting. There is only 2 connections on the whole trans. Park/Neutral safty switch and CCL. The CCL switch is only a 2 wire connection right behind the bellhousing on the drivers side of the transmission, where as the park/neutral switch is a 4 wire connection.

Now, you need to pull the connecter off and look at it



Now with a test light (grounded to the negative side of the battery) test to see which wire is the main power supply.


In my case, the red wire in the power supply line, so LEAVE IT ALONE!!!! (unless your using this trans in a 79-86 mustang, in which case you want it to get a constent 12V) Now you see the orange wire, that is your ground connection, now you want to wire it up to a switch because this will tell your CCL to either turn on or off **See note at the bottom** then just ground the other wire from the switch to a ground location.

I put my switch in my shifter cover because its in the open, making it easy to get to, and easy to remember to turn it off **See note at the bottom**








There, all done, and easy to get to/use. Now take it for a drive and see how it works...

**Note**
You want the CCL turned off when your not on the HWY so your easy on your transmission and your engine idles down when your "free" driving (no gas, no brake)

ALWAYS REMEMBER TO TURN IT ON WHEN YOUR AT HWY SPEEDS AND TURN IT OFF WHEN YOUR NOT!!!!


Me nor MustangForums.com takes any responsability for any damage done to your car/transmission

Last edited by sleeper_inc; 09-18-2008 at 10:30 AM.
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Old 04-07-2008, 11:37 AM   #16
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Default RE: 2.3 Tech Articles

anyone were I can find a new 2.3 block... Ive got and 82 and my brother decided to take it apart now ive got to put it back together and Ive decided to replace the block or go up to 3.3
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Old 04-07-2008, 06:10 PM   #17
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: theduke256

anyone were I can find a new 2.3 block... Ive got and 82 and my brother decided to take it apart now ive got to put it back together and Ive decided to replace the block or go up to 3.3
You need a NOS block, good luck finding one for under $1500 though...
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Old 05-22-2008, 11:00 AM   #18
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they have one on ebay, its for 600 .. say its the last one.. still in crate ford packed it in, wish i could buy it but no money
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Old 06-14-2009, 09:15 PM   #19
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Default

I found these while I was crusing around online looking for performance mods for the 2.3 turbo. Its from a guy that uses the 2.3 to build sand rails. Looks like a couple good ideas here as long as you can fit the intake under the hood. These and some more interesting articles can be found at Major League Duning.

How to Build Your Own Intake for the Ford 2.3T

How to Build a T3 Exhaust Manifold for the Ford 2.3T
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Old 10-04-2010, 07:32 PM   #20
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