MARK1983L

Hello, I'm a new member...this is my first post. I recently baught a 1983 ford mustang L (4 cylinder) with 80k original miles. I thought this was a good deal for $1300.00 clean inside and out .... from texas so no rust. Anyhow I was driving home from work (60 miles thru Dallastwords Fort Worth- Yuk!) and I started loosing powerit kept getting worse and i pulled off the road, the car died once I was to the side. I tried to start it and it was running very rough, rpm's wouldnt get above 1k, also the engine was overheating and poof - one hose sprung a leak, i repaired it, started it again still 1k rpm's only and poof another hose busted - they were poping after only 3-4 mins it would go from cold to just under the bar by hot. I let the clutch out and it kill the engine before the car would move. Well got it towed home and had someone help me, turned I loosened the nut 11/16 to the distributor and turned it slightly and the engine stopped viberating as much as before, I drove it around .. it now had its power back and was not overheating ...Yes I re-tightened the 11/16 nut to distributor back down.

SO ... Q1(?) will timming being off cause overheating ??? well heres the part addressing the title of my post.

I recently started my new job and have been there 2 weeks as a Senior Engineer CNC airconditioner manufacturing and love the job ... starting pay $25/hr with unlimited overtime... i don't wana loose this job, the people, enviromentare great and I love fixin machines (25 yrs exp.)
I know 26 skilled trades, 10yrs in USAF (electronics/mainframes), Kodak, Texas Instruments, electrocom automation ... about 250k worth of training. HERE'S MY PRESENT PROBLEM>

so I drove the car from Fort Worth to my girlfriends house Copperas Cove (by fort hood, or Austin) its about 180 miles, and I had no problems. I called in sick when my car broke in pt.1 and called in a second day and drove to her house to bum some loot from her, well I was at Taco Bell in line and noticed my temp was near Hot. So I checked it when I got home and it was about 1/8th from the top.... so I filled it started it and looked for leaks....didnt see any wet cement. also I checked all my fluids and the oil was not milky indicating a cracked block (big concern). I started my drive back to Fort Worth and about 5-10 miles my temp was near the line by HOT also the car was acting weird like loosing power... I had the pedal to the floor in 4th gear and it wouldnt go over 50mph-before I could get 60-70 @ 3k-3.5k rpm's. I pulled over and loosened the nut and readjusted the distributor. While I was doing this I could hear the radiator boiling and steam coming out of the coolant overflow tank. I let it cool and topped it again, Well I made a blunder and broke off one of the posts to the distributor. I sorta put it back in place and it still ran.... so I drove about 3-5 miles and the power started to dissapate again ... so I hit the exit engine died and coasted to the gas station @ 50mph ...
I got a new distributor cap and installed it .. car wont start at all, it almost sounds like no spark... i pulled all 4 plugs and they were not best, but ok, ohmed out the spark plug wires, they all ok, tried adj. timing ... no luck. I checked and I am getting gas, had the air filter off, so it was getting air. My timming belt has cracks, but is still in tact ..... It could potentially be jumping a tooth, causing me to correct it by adj. distributor ???
Anyhow when I turn it over it sounds like its turning almost fast with no drag on it... like no gas or spark. but I am getting gas as I verified it. So, maybe i lost spark, in this 83 stang the is a box on the firewall hmm can't remember what it says on the side of it, but it has wires leading to a connector and then to the base of the distributor... also above the box thing is a round capacitor ??? looking thing... I think this also feeds some of the distributor ?? dunno? since the battery was being used allot, it got wore down so I did attempt starting while I was Jumpered to my girls car.

SO.... Q2.... Top of distribitor looking down... where 1 plug goes is marked, going in counterclockwise direction 1-2-4-3, is that right, I marked the old ones but maybe I messed up somehow ?\

SO ....Q3 .....How do I check for spark ? And check the box thing, and capacitor thing ... maybe the broken post rattled around and shorted causing the box or capacitor to go bad ??

Maybe Im in left field ... I really need any and all ideas to fix this by tonight...i called in sick 3rd time today...they know its because of my car though. but if I dont show tomarrow I'll prob be fired.... HELP ME SAVE ME JOB !

THANKS FOR ANY RESPONSES ... MY ENTIRE WORLD WILL CRUMBLE IF I LOOSE MY JOB, I MAY EVEN BECOME HOMELESS AND GIRLFRIENDLESS ..... SO REALLY THANK YOU !!!! (sory this post was so long).

MARK1983L

Please dont be shy .... Everyones input is important ...... Plleeeeaaaaassssseeeee!

sleeper_inc

You have to take all your spark plugs out, check the compression, make sure your rings are ok from that temp, make sure your thurmastat is working (reason for over heating) to check soark take all spark plugs out, make sure they are grounded and turn engine over, you should have spark. If you timing belt moves to freely for your liking replace it. If your battary keeps going dead you might have an electrical problem or your alt is going and you need a new one. make sure your rad is not DIRTY!There is a lot of help you can get, if you know what to ask.

MARK1983L

Thx sleeper_inc.

The reason my battery weakened is from tryin to turn it over about hrmmm... 200 times, so i think its good.
I did pull the plugs and they had a white corrosion on em, I cleaned em, but I'll prob get new ones 2nite and pop em in.
- so to check a plug unscrew it, leave it connected to wire and touch other end to frame (dont hold in hand) and i should see spark right?
I guess I'll pop a new thermostat in 2nite also.. cheap enuf.

guess i need 2 people to check compression ? I would find it odd to have a bad ring since I shut her down before it past the M in normal, and i was doing 55 when it suddenly lost some power and on the off ramp I had 0 rpm's @50 (coasting)

do you know what that box is on the firewall? or the cap. above the box. its only on old models i think?

Jugador

any clue on the condition of the fuel filter? i doubt it's the problem, but the white plugs and engine's inability to rev easily sounds like it's at least worth looking into


oh wait, an 83 is carbureted right? have you tuned it any?

mg man 75

Make sure didn't break timing belt. Remove cap turn engine over see if rotor moves. If not look at belt small plug in cover removeable to see belt. If broke time to replace. Good site on timingbelt good pictures helpful. Also useful if you think it has jumped a tooth. http://projecthp.23.com/tech.htmlIf rotor turns see if have spark out of coil if not TFI on distributor probably bad. Don't remove distributor need special nutdriverautoparts don't forget heatpaste under it or get to do again.Have been know to fail when hot. Autoparts can test call make sure. Like sleeper said make sure thermostat good if get running, as old as car replace anyway probably need antifreeze flushanyway. Check and make sure fan runs when gets warm. I assume yours has electric fan. Mine is89t lx. If doesn't run there is module under dash 8 wires I remember.Look at plug connection and board in plastic box probably burn't if bad replace. Sorry long tried to hit all areas I could to get you going fastest.If need more help post again more info

MARK1983L

yes i turned the distributor... still wont start

ok mg man im going to do all these checks now at 430.....thanks guys. ill let ya knoiw what happens

Li0nHart

make sure your electric fan is coming on...

84 Turbo stang

my fan went bad in my 89 lx 4cyl. and I had to replace the head. Somehow it took a chunk out of the exhaust valve on the 2nd cyl.