2.3T problem hesitating. :(
 

Got a problem I can't figure out...
I've checked the vacuum lines, all good... I've adjusted the tps to .96... I've checked the vam... all good... I've checked the cam timing 4 times, I've adjusted base timing with spout out to 10 btc as tbird instructed. Still nothing.

It starts & idles at around 500rpm, but if I punch it it falls on it's face & stays around 500, but starts acting crazy. If I rev it to 2500rpm, then punch it it gains rpm & boost shoots up to 8psi. It doesn't gain as fast as it should, but still pretty decent.
It's like.... below 2500rpm, not even enough power to gain rpm, after 2500rpm enough power to get it up to 6k rpm, but not enough power to move the car.

brand new fuel pump, brand new fuel filter, but even so... that it act's completely dead below 2500rpm makes me think it's not to do with fuel. It acts like vacuum, timing, or a sensor. Or at least those are my guesses, but i've ran out of ideas.

Boost gauge shows 10psi vac at idle, when I punch it at idle it goes to 0psi, but doesn't gain rpm. at 2500 it shoots up to 8psi & holds steady till 6000

I'm almost out of ideas here guys.

Here's a short video.
http://myspacetv.com/index.cfm?fusea...deoid=18278454

I had to give it partial throttle to get it to go up to 2500. You can still hear it fcking up though bad down low.

RE: 2.3T problem hesitating. :(
 

Have you checked the TPS for flat spots? There could be a dead spot in the TPS, right around that throttle position. You can check it with an analog ohm meter, and look to see if it has a smooth sweep of the needle.

RE: 2.3T problem hesitating. :(
 

Have you checked the IAC? Made sure all your wiring is correct?

RE: 2.3T problem hesitating. :(
 

Check timing I read somewhere. Where the turbo won't build much boost with no load. In other words car not moving. But will build boost if timing is off. But you said you checked that. Are you getting any codes. You might want to separate the vam from turbo. Read somewhere vam must be isolated from vibration. Idle needs to be around 900 near as can remember. Also set tps at setting. .90 to .95 volts dc. But you done that. Also while meter is on it see it voltage stay linear from idle to wot. Car does not need to be running. Ignition on. Look for dead spots in voltage. Where voltage dies off. Also take meter and check sweep of vam. It could have dead spots. T-bird 232ci. Had one bad a few months ago. May want to do search on him and see how his acted. I assume the computer you used matchs vam and injector sizes. Maybe a tfi but that is a guess. Still on a few ideas. Waste gate adjusted properly. Hope this help keep us posted.

RE: 2.3T problem hesitating. :(
 

tps & vam were both checked through the full sweep for dead spots. Neither had any.

wastegate is good.

computer is a pc1. small vam, green tops. All is good there unless the things i read were wrong.

I'll give the iac a look.

RE: 2.3T problem hesitating. :(
 

Did you check pvc valve maybe leaking. Use ford part only Also check vac line at bottom of lower intake. I had a hose crack here and caused me some problems. If think have vac leak. Make a test rig and hook to intake. I made one pvc end cap hole in center thread it to put air line fitting. Pressure to 10 psi. I did this to find boost leaks.Ps tieit off at screw clamp. Mine blew off a higher pressure and hit me in head. I was lucky. I assume correct firing order at cap not 180 out. I know hitting simple idea. but trying. I got idea ohm out injectors. Had dead miss on mine was not ignition was injector. Found it by unplugging one injector at a time while running . The one that made no difference was bad.

RE: 2.3T problem hesitating. :(
 

how do i check the pcv valve for leaks?

checked timing for a 5th time. all 3 pulleys perfectly lined up where they should be. Vac line at lower intake is good. Disty is right as far as i know. I had to restab it to set it to #1 at tdc during compression stroke. I can double check that perhaps tomorrow.
I ohm'd the injectors long ago & ran some cleaner through them, all were perfect.
My fuel rail doesn't have a fitting on it to test fuel pressure so i'm going to see what I can do about getting a cheap gauge from lowes & tapping into it.

I noticed two odd things earlier though.....

I started the car up earlier with the vam not connected to the turbo (pigtail was still plugged in). Moving the vane made NO difference whatsoever. (i had a friend hold the gas steady at 800rpm. Disconnecting it completely made a big difference, but there's also another sensor in there that it could need. Shouldn't moving the vane make some difference? I moved it slowly from completely closed to all the way open quite a few times... no change.

The other thing I noticed was the when trying to start the car the starter would kick on, off, on, off, on off, then the entire car went completely dead. I moved a few wires by the battery & it came back. Perhaps engine vibration are causing the battery to not power the car & it run completely off the alt. I know it's not the starter solenoid.. I wired a push button starter directly from the positive on the solenoid to the switch to close the solenoid. Perhaps it's shaking the ground off or something. Still... would that cause this problem?

I'm trying to borrow a compression tester to see what that's at.

Another idea I had... my gas tank was extremely rusty. I did clean it out at a car was with a pressure washer. I noticed when I had the fuel line disconnected from the rail & was shooting the gas into a cup it looked pretty nasty.

What doesn't make sense to me & what's confusing me about this whole thing is it has a so/so high end & literally NO low end....

I'm going to see what's up with the codes soon. I can't let it get to operating temp, as i have no radiator in yet. The reason I've avoided putting it in is because the water neck & inlet on the pump are all corroded... to the point it looks like you could push through the metal it's rusted so much. I would have replaced it by now, but i'm not working.. actually i've been staying in illinois as long as I can to try to finish this project so I can take it with me when I move, time is running out fast though. I may have about 5 days to try to figure out the problem, then i'll probably end up having to call it quits on the project again for a few months so I can move & get back to work. Good news is at $1300/wk, I may be able to buy an svo :D... but I really hate not to finish this project.

RE: 2.3T problem hesitating. :(
 

Check your battery lines and replce them if they are bad (same thing has happend to me about the on, off, on, off and a line was loose)

As for the vam, either A) grab another one or B) test it again

Also you did grab codes right??

So what where the codes?

RE: 2.3T problem hesitating. :(
 

try hooking up your rad and filling it with coolant... fast way to kill your ugly beater. sorry didnt read your whole post, i see why its not connected now..good luck

RE: 2.3T problem hesitating. :(
 

Still try pulling wires off injectors see if makes a differance. I know after 2700 to 3000 rpm the computer goes to open or close loop. Sorry can't remember whick way. Any way after that computer ignores a lotI think 0-2 sensor and more sensor and goes to map in computer. In other words richens the fuel. Moving the vam should make a difference. Page 19 here is where to test a the van and all the other sensors. www.rothfam.com/svo/reference/sensors.pdf Also I assume map/bap sensor not hooked to vacumn. Also pin 49 wire goes to input of turbo not to any other ground. Have you got full 12vdc to proper pin of computer. If small vam is bad I got spare I am positive is good was on my car before I went to big vam. Is ground wire from motor to body installed. Also read haven't done to mine yet a extra ground fron intake to negative battery is good idea.