A few questions about a 2.3t swap.
#81
so i started thinking today and i know that on most all modern cars, the EGR is a pretty important part of making the car run right. Now i know people have successfully taken the entire system out of their turbo swap mustangs. Does it cause the cel to come on? Have a lot of you guys here taken the system out or do you generally leave it in? I would like to take it out completely, but would also like to know what kind of luck you guys have had with that, and how you did it.
#82
Removed mine completely. If remember correctly a 1/2" pipe plug will screw into the exhaust manifold. I cut the EGR flange off completely off the intake. Then thread the inside of it and epoxied a reducer in it. [I had to epoxy the bushing in by time you thread it the fitting will thread all the way thru and fall into intake.] I got my boost gauge going to it. On a intercooler install there is some video's in my photobucket.
http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ler%20install/
http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ler%20install/
#85
Still have the CEL light in dash. It stays off. If I check codes. The EGR valve codes comes up and also OD and torque lockup codes comes up since I am running a 8UA [a A4LD turbocoupe computer] computer with a C-4 transmission. FoxGTand I thought I had a mess with my SHO Mustang repinning. Maurice
Last edited by mg man 75; 07-15-2009 at 09:03 PM. Reason: added more
#86
With my 5.0 no codes came up when I plugged the egr I left the valve itself plugged in though.
My wiring wasn't really that bad lol I ran all of my relays & fuse panel on the passenger side. I only used i'd say about 25 wires? The reason the wiring was all over was because instead of going to buy a lot of wire to wire the whole truck I figured I'd cut up the existing harness to use the wires out of it to save some money
This is what it came to. This pic was taken right before wrapping the wire.
My wiring wasn't really that bad lol I ran all of my relays & fuse panel on the passenger side. I only used i'd say about 25 wires? The reason the wiring was all over was because instead of going to buy a lot of wire to wire the whole truck I figured I'd cut up the existing harness to use the wires out of it to save some money
This is what it came to. This pic was taken right before wrapping the wire.
Last edited by FoxGT; 07-17-2009 at 08:54 AM.
#87
Holy cow FoxGT, thats one massive intercooler! looks pretty sweet tho!
So I starte digging into my TC wiring harness today. I have looked on Stinger's site and looked a little bit around here. But I would like to know what all I need, or could want, from the TC as far as connectors and wires. I almost considered pulling out the entire harness, but man that's looks like a lot of work. Plus, I have to have the car gone by winter so I can store my mustang. Dont want to leave something behind that i wish I had. So If anyone knows what connectors I need, that would help me out a LOT!
I know I need the VAM, and the ignition wiring, its going into a 93 stang. Is there anything else i need besides that? and the computer of course ;-)
Also, FoxGT, Is that all the wiring you have for the engine? Looks pretty simple to me, would help clean up the engine bay. Do you have a diagram of what you did there?
So I starte digging into my TC wiring harness today. I have looked on Stinger's site and looked a little bit around here. But I would like to know what all I need, or could want, from the TC as far as connectors and wires. I almost considered pulling out the entire harness, but man that's looks like a lot of work. Plus, I have to have the car gone by winter so I can store my mustang. Dont want to leave something behind that i wish I had. So If anyone knows what connectors I need, that would help me out a LOT!
I know I need the VAM, and the ignition wiring, its going into a 93 stang. Is there anything else i need besides that? and the computer of course ;-)
Also, FoxGT, Is that all the wiring you have for the engine? Looks pretty simple to me, would help clean up the engine bay. Do you have a diagram of what you did there?
#88
Vam wiring. Vam hose make sure to get. Downpipe off turbo to adapt to yours. If not going to pull harness. Cut at firewall and box it it will come in handy and misc components. Front and Rear sway bar off a turbocoupe makes a Mustang handle better. Engine cooling fan system will fit a Mustang radiator. I install t-bird sunvisors in mine. Had to redo the headliner but need redoing anyway. Door lock solinoids fit the Mustang. Rearend will fit Mustang but a little wider. Will need brake booster and reservoirm also. But not that Antilock/abs mess. Can look it up to find what needed. Have read seats will fit but delete the power seat section He even used the rear and had a uphoster person cut to fit.
Last edited by mg man 75; 07-25-2009 at 04:02 PM. Reason: added more
#90
I can't speak for the ranger. The last car I wired in a 2.3T on I grabbed the tbird engine harness only. If it was going to the body harness or dash harness I cut it on the body or dash side so i would have the connector just in case. I haven't wired many 2.3's but speaking for the 87-93 5.0's... I've messed with every year & it seems like they changed the wiring every single year except 90-91. After having done it quite a few times, I would never try to get a body & dash harness into a different car again....
Anymore the only thing I will grab is the engine harness going from the computer to the sensors & the connectors.
I don't have a diagram here. I built it to get rid of the factory mess of a harness ford made for a simpler one. The only part of wiring I kept from the original harness was the connectors & the pwm flyback for the iac to keep from frying the iac driver in the ecu. & I ditched my key switch for toggle switches & a button start. You're going to have a little more wiring than me, I'm running a msII standalone that I put together. I wanted to ditch the vam in favor of a speed density setup for less inlet restriction & better fuel economy. After I messed with my first one a while back on a 5.0, I never wanted to run anything else :P If I had it my way all of my cars would have one, even if they were stock.
With the wiring as of right now 3 toggle switches control everything along with 4 relays, the 4th relay for the fan isn't in the pic. All 3 switches go to a relay to keep the load off of the switches themselves which let me run a fuse box close to the relays in case there was a short. The first is the 12V source; it supplies power for the other two switches, start button, & radio. Basically nothing will work in the entire truck with it off (aside from headlights). the 2nd is the ecu toggle which controls power to the ecu, all sensors, gauges, coil, fuel pump relay, & HEGO. 3rd toggle is the fan.
The primary reason I wanted to rewire it was because I wanted to move some stuff around, the battery is on the drivers side now but it still supplies to the starter sol & fuse box on passenger side. The reason for this was for room for a different header & turbo plumbing. The weight loss, cleaner look, & simplicity was just a bonus.
I think the what wiring you need question was answered, I would make sure to get the pigtail going to the coil. cut it as long as possible since it's not part of the eec harness.
btw... that intercooler is a little bit of an overkill. I'm running it because I wanted to find out some numbers on a bigger intercooler.
Anymore the only thing I will grab is the engine harness going from the computer to the sensors & the connectors.
I don't have a diagram here. I built it to get rid of the factory mess of a harness ford made for a simpler one. The only part of wiring I kept from the original harness was the connectors & the pwm flyback for the iac to keep from frying the iac driver in the ecu. & I ditched my key switch for toggle switches & a button start. You're going to have a little more wiring than me, I'm running a msII standalone that I put together. I wanted to ditch the vam in favor of a speed density setup for less inlet restriction & better fuel economy. After I messed with my first one a while back on a 5.0, I never wanted to run anything else :P If I had it my way all of my cars would have one, even if they were stock.
With the wiring as of right now 3 toggle switches control everything along with 4 relays, the 4th relay for the fan isn't in the pic. All 3 switches go to a relay to keep the load off of the switches themselves which let me run a fuse box close to the relays in case there was a short. The first is the 12V source; it supplies power for the other two switches, start button, & radio. Basically nothing will work in the entire truck with it off (aside from headlights). the 2nd is the ecu toggle which controls power to the ecu, all sensors, gauges, coil, fuel pump relay, & HEGO. 3rd toggle is the fan.
The primary reason I wanted to rewire it was because I wanted to move some stuff around, the battery is on the drivers side now but it still supplies to the starter sol & fuse box on passenger side. The reason for this was for room for a different header & turbo plumbing. The weight loss, cleaner look, & simplicity was just a bonus.
I think the what wiring you need question was answered, I would make sure to get the pigtail going to the coil. cut it as long as possible since it's not part of the eec harness.
btw... that intercooler is a little bit of an overkill. I'm running it because I wanted to find out some numbers on a bigger intercooler.
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