Im new to mustangs. 88 LX 2.3 questions.
02-24-2011, 03:24 PM
#22
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 7
i found this SVO on craigslist, but the dash is taken out and it wont crank, they think because of something disconnected. Read and tell me what you think.
http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/2225464266.html
http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/2225464266.html
02-24-2011, 03:30 PM
#24
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 7
02-25-2011, 03:01 AM
#25
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: California
Posts: 75
If you can handle the machanical repairs, get the SVO.
peace out.
02-25-2011, 05:52 AM
#26
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 240
On the other hand, turbos generally produce more boost, the 2.3 is one tough engine, and with the aftermarket parts that are available for it, it would be easier to make a big hp 2.3 than super coupe.
As far as differences between 2.3T and N/A engines are concerned, there isn't much lol. The turbo block has an extra hole in it for oil return. In my opinion, I would rather see a oil return line go right into the oil pan. While modding my whip, I had a hard time getting a good oil return line system going to the factory location. The only other difference is that the turbo engine has forged pistons. All the rest of the internals are the same.
SO! To make your N/A engine handle a turbo, you would have had to drop the compression, add a oil return hole, and find a decent set of forged pistons. To make it work well in your car, you would need a turbo engine ECU and all its components, VAM, injectors, O2 sensor, etc. The A4LD is junk. You would want to upgrade to either a C4 or 5 speed. Its a bit of work, but well worth it!
03-16-2011, 08:22 PM
#27
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oregon
Posts: 297
Well that is a good point. Thats why i use my 4 banger as a driver over my V8.
However, the 4 cylinder N/A's only came with 88hp (until 92 when they came with 105hp due to a revised cylinder head), so no matter what you do, its going to be pretty difficult to do anything spectacular to that motor.
I have not seen anything nor any proof (via dyno results ect) of getting a 2.3 N/A over 120hp lol. Hopefully someone can prove me wrong
If you look up Sleeper_Inc, you will see what he did to his 4 banger before he went Turbo.
However, the 4 cylinder N/A's only came with 88hp (until 92 when they came with 105hp due to a revised cylinder head), so no matter what you do, its going to be pretty difficult to do anything spectacular to that motor.
I have not seen anything nor any proof (via dyno results ect) of getting a 2.3 N/A over 120hp lol. Hopefully someone can prove me wrong
If you look up Sleeper_Inc, you will see what he did to his 4 banger before he went Turbo.
03-17-2011, 04:48 AM
#28
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 240
I believe Dreamer meant as more of a bolt on type 120hp. These little power plants are capable of big horse power, including the n/a types. The only thing is that with the n/a, your looking to do quite a bit of work to get that power out of it. We figured with this thread being about being new to mustangs, we figured he hasn't looked through the Esslinger catalog yet.
03-21-2011, 06:51 PM
#29
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Illinois
Posts: 31
hi and welcome to the red headed stepchild of the mustang group, the 2.3L N/A fox body mustangs.
with that being said, there is nothing wrong with the car that would make it such a crap pile like "what you heard".
A little info on your car... in 1988 there were two models of mustang, the LX and GT. All GT's had the 5.0, but the LX could be had either as a 5.0 or a 2.3 (there were no 2.3 turbo Mustangs from the factory in 1988).
Your car is a 2.3 "4 plug" 4cyl. motor and the tranny is an A4LD. The 2.3's are so bulletproof they make the trannys seem cheap in comparison because while you can get over 300k out of the motor (if regularly serviced) an A4LD tranny won't hold up that long. And as for trannys, I think the A4LD gets a bum rap too, because if you try to service and adjust linkages and the like as you would an AOD, you'll likely screw it up. Same goes for putting the wrong type ATF in one as well On Fords, always read the dipstick to see what to use for fluid and don't believe the non-oem ford shop manuals).
The suspension on a 2.3 is the same as a 5.0, except for the spring rates, so anything you can do to improve a 5.0 suspension, you can do to a 2.3). Because a 2.3 has less weight over the front wheels, it's actually easier to make a 2.3 handle better than a 5.0 since it is closer to an ideal 50/50 front/rear weight distribution.
As for spending tons of dollars to make power... well thats a yes and no. If you just don't want to be laughed at by your friend with the chevy cavalier which beats you at the stop light, then there are some simple cheap mods to get another 20hp or so.
If you want a car that will keep up with the Honda crowd, then a cam and some light machining work will be in order to see another 50hp on top of that 20 cheap hp. It's still not terribly expensive at this point... guys have gotten this far spending less than $500.00
If you want to race built 5.0's and turbo 4's, then you'll need to spend more $$ - but even at that level there is some cheap alternatives. A 2.3 turbo motor from a donor t-bird with some light porting, hi-po cam, and a modified turbo will be a no brainer to reach 250hp. Price wise you can still get this done for a couple grand assuming you've done wise shopping and do the mechanical work yourself.
Hope that sheds some light for you...
with that being said, there is nothing wrong with the car that would make it such a crap pile like "what you heard".
A little info on your car... in 1988 there were two models of mustang, the LX and GT. All GT's had the 5.0, but the LX could be had either as a 5.0 or a 2.3 (there were no 2.3 turbo Mustangs from the factory in 1988).
Your car is a 2.3 "4 plug" 4cyl. motor and the tranny is an A4LD. The 2.3's are so bulletproof they make the trannys seem cheap in comparison because while you can get over 300k out of the motor (if regularly serviced) an A4LD tranny won't hold up that long. And as for trannys, I think the A4LD gets a bum rap too, because if you try to service and adjust linkages and the like as you would an AOD, you'll likely screw it up. Same goes for putting the wrong type ATF in one as well On Fords, always read the dipstick to see what to use for fluid and don't believe the non-oem ford shop manuals).
The suspension on a 2.3 is the same as a 5.0, except for the spring rates, so anything you can do to improve a 5.0 suspension, you can do to a 2.3). Because a 2.3 has less weight over the front wheels, it's actually easier to make a 2.3 handle better than a 5.0 since it is closer to an ideal 50/50 front/rear weight distribution.
As for spending tons of dollars to make power... well thats a yes and no. If you just don't want to be laughed at by your friend with the chevy cavalier which beats you at the stop light, then there are some simple cheap mods to get another 20hp or so.
If you want a car that will keep up with the Honda crowd, then a cam and some light machining work will be in order to see another 50hp on top of that 20 cheap hp. It's still not terribly expensive at this point... guys have gotten this far spending less than $500.00
If you want to race built 5.0's and turbo 4's, then you'll need to spend more $$ - but even at that level there is some cheap alternatives. A 2.3 turbo motor from a donor t-bird with some light porting, hi-po cam, and a modified turbo will be a no brainer to reach 250hp. Price wise you can still get this done for a couple grand assuming you've done wise shopping and do the mechanical work yourself.
Hope that sheds some light for you...
03-23-2011, 02:19 AM
#30
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 1
If i where going to build a turbo motor for the 93, I'd use the 93 motor. Don't need to try and find a turbo motor, when you can build yours pretty easy. Now using parts of the factory 2.3 is a good cheap route. Turbos and exhaust manifold are good to get, or there are aftermarket parts that cost just a little more. Lots of people just swap the rods and pistons into newer 2.3s as they have forged pistons, and are dished. A complete swap is good if your good at wiring, and feel like rewiring things. Lots of options to tune your 2.3 computer to run with what ever you do. One of the best lives in colorado even. Only thing forged on factory 2.3s is the pistons not the rods or crank, so don't think your bottom end isn't 66% strong enough.
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