cooling fan still non functional
03-11-2013, 12:50 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: michigan
Posts: 23
cooling fan still non functional
hello again everybody its been a while since i posted, anyway i am in a 6 month battle with my electric cooling fan in a 2.3 5 speed LX the fan just wont turn on by itself. i have replaced the IRCM, the ECT switch, the radiator, and the fan unit. if i jump the fan to the battery it turns on. if i jump just the positive to the battery it turns on, so i know the fan and the ground are good. i had the car in the shop a couple months ago, and they jumped the ECT switch with a paper clip and the fan still turned on. they could not find any problems with the car. now i do not have the tools needed to test power to the IRCM but the car starts and runs normal so i must have some power going to IRCM since my fuel pump relay is also in there. somebody told me there might be a fusabe link blown? and he was not sure if i had one for it. where would this be if i do have one? i know there is a problem cause the temp goes more then halfway up and no fan turn on. the car has never overheated on my yet, thanks to the brand new radiator and it being over efficient. but the fan needs to work to be safe
03-11-2013, 01:03 PM
#4
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Missouri
Posts: 49
There is a coolant sensor for the gauge and one for the ECU to take readings from, but sounds like an air pocket in the cooling system could be your problem since you replaced the radiator, The fan isn't turning on most likely because the temp sensor that tells the computer to turn it on is not totally in coolant. It can't properly read the temp and report back to the ECU. try to burp some air out of the cooling system. Also, any Codes being thrown? like Bad ECT? and I can give you the testing procedure for the fan only tool you need is a test light.
03-11-2013, 01:10 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: michigan
Posts: 23
There is a coolant sensor for the gauge and one for the ECU to take readings from, but sounds like an air pocket in the cooling system could be your problem since you replaced the radiator, The fan isn't turning on most likely because the temp sensor that tells the computer to turn it on is not totally in coolant. It can't properly read the temp and report back to the ECU. try to burp some air out of the cooling system. Also, any Codes being thrown? like Bad ECT? and I can give you the testing procedure for the fan only tool you need is a test light.
03-11-2013, 01:33 PM
#6
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Missouri
Posts: 49
How to check cooling fan operation: (by Jeff Korn and Pete Dunham)
Both fans are controlled by the EEC via the IRCM (integrated relay control module), which is the black box with about 24 wires coming out of it located on the front of the drivers side strut tower. To test the aux fan (smaller drivers side one) Pull the connector off the A/C pressure switch, which is in the high side A/C line near the VAM. Turn the key on, and jumper the 2 pins in the connector you just removed. If the aux fan runs, its relay in the IRCM is OK. <which is prolly what the shop did for you previously>
There is an easy way to check the operation of the main (pass side) fan. Run the KOEO EEC diagnostic test. During the test, the main fan should run. If it does, the IRCM, and all the main fan wiring is functioning correctly all the way from the main fan to the EEC. If the main fan comes on during the KOEO test, but fails to come on when the motor gets hot (stock temp gauge up about 1/2 way), the most likely cause is a bad ECT. If you still suspect the IRCM is faulty because the fans failed the above test, then do this before replacing the IRCM: be sure the heavy yellow wires going to pins 3 and 4 of the IRCM are hot at all times. These wires provide power to the fans directly from the battery thru fuse links "L" and "M". Test this with a test light, not a voltmeter.
Running a code test may show a bad ECT, but only if its temp readings are WAY out of wack. In other words, the ECT may be reading temp as lower than it really is, but still not set a code.
There is one relay for each fan in the Integrated Relay Control Module (IRCM) which is the big black box on the front of the passenger side strut tower. Also in there are the power relay for the computer, the fuel pump relay and one other.
Here is some info for testing the relay for the driver's side fan.
Here is how to check the relay for the drivers side fan (smaller one) in the int. controller: Find the PINK wire at terminal 17 of the ICRM. Probe it with a pin, like when checking the TPS voltage. Run a jumper from the probe pin to ground with the key on. When the pink wire is grounded, the lower, drivers side fan should run. If the fan runs, the IRCM is OK. I have tapped into this pink wire, and use a relay to ground this wire whenever the HVAC function lever calls for A/C, so I have both fans running when the A/C is on. Motor stays nice and cool this way, and my 130A alt easily handles the load.
To test the other relay, do the above to the tan wire w/ orange stripe, it goes into the 2nd from the bottom position on the I/C side of the connector.
found this I know some of it is not new information for you, but the rest may prove beneficial.
Both fans are controlled by the EEC via the IRCM (integrated relay control module), which is the black box with about 24 wires coming out of it located on the front of the drivers side strut tower. To test the aux fan (smaller drivers side one) Pull the connector off the A/C pressure switch, which is in the high side A/C line near the VAM. Turn the key on, and jumper the 2 pins in the connector you just removed. If the aux fan runs, its relay in the IRCM is OK. <which is prolly what the shop did for you previously>
There is an easy way to check the operation of the main (pass side) fan. Run the KOEO EEC diagnostic test. During the test, the main fan should run. If it does, the IRCM, and all the main fan wiring is functioning correctly all the way from the main fan to the EEC. If the main fan comes on during the KOEO test, but fails to come on when the motor gets hot (stock temp gauge up about 1/2 way), the most likely cause is a bad ECT. If you still suspect the IRCM is faulty because the fans failed the above test, then do this before replacing the IRCM: be sure the heavy yellow wires going to pins 3 and 4 of the IRCM are hot at all times. These wires provide power to the fans directly from the battery thru fuse links "L" and "M". Test this with a test light, not a voltmeter.
Running a code test may show a bad ECT, but only if its temp readings are WAY out of wack. In other words, the ECT may be reading temp as lower than it really is, but still not set a code.
There is one relay for each fan in the Integrated Relay Control Module (IRCM) which is the big black box on the front of the passenger side strut tower. Also in there are the power relay for the computer, the fuel pump relay and one other.
Here is some info for testing the relay for the driver's side fan.
Here is how to check the relay for the drivers side fan (smaller one) in the int. controller: Find the PINK wire at terminal 17 of the ICRM. Probe it with a pin, like when checking the TPS voltage. Run a jumper from the probe pin to ground with the key on. When the pink wire is grounded, the lower, drivers side fan should run. If the fan runs, the IRCM is OK. I have tapped into this pink wire, and use a relay to ground this wire whenever the HVAC function lever calls for A/C, so I have both fans running when the A/C is on. Motor stays nice and cool this way, and my 130A alt easily handles the load.
To test the other relay, do the above to the tan wire w/ orange stripe, it goes into the 2nd from the bottom position on the I/C side of the connector.
found this I know some of it is not new information for you, but the rest may prove beneficial.
03-11-2013, 03:06 PM
#7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: michigan
Posts: 23
How to check cooling fan operation: (by Jeff Korn and Pete Dunham)
Both fans are controlled by the EEC via the IRCM (integrated relay control module), which is the black box with about 24 wires coming out of it located on the front of the drivers side strut tower. To test the aux fan (smaller drivers side one) Pull the connector off the A/C pressure switch, which is in the high side A/C line near the VAM. Turn the key on, and jumper the 2 pins in the connector you just removed. If the aux fan runs, its relay in the IRCM is OK. <which is prolly what the shop did for you previously>
There is an easy way to check the operation of the main (pass side) fan. Run the KOEO EEC diagnostic test. During the test, the main fan should run. If it does, the IRCM, and all the main fan wiring is functioning correctly all the way from the main fan to the EEC. If the main fan comes on during the KOEO test, but fails to come on when the motor gets hot (stock temp gauge up about 1/2 way), the most likely cause is a bad ECT. If you still suspect the IRCM is faulty because the fans failed the above test, then do this before replacing the IRCM: be sure the heavy yellow wires going to pins 3 and 4 of the IRCM are hot at all times. These wires provide power to the fans directly from the battery thru fuse links "L" and "M". Test this with a test light, not a voltmeter.
Running a code test may show a bad ECT, but only if its temp readings are WAY out of wack. In other words, the ECT may be reading temp as lower than it really is, but still not set a code.
There is one relay for each fan in the Integrated Relay Control Module (IRCM) which is the big black box on the front of the passenger side strut tower. Also in there are the power relay for the computer, the fuel pump relay and one other.
Here is some info for testing the relay for the driver's side fan.
Here is how to check the relay for the drivers side fan (smaller one) in the int. controller: Find the PINK wire at terminal 17 of the ICRM. Probe it with a pin, like when checking the TPS voltage. Run a jumper from the probe pin to ground with the key on. When the pink wire is grounded, the lower, drivers side fan should run. If the fan runs, the IRCM is OK. I have tapped into this pink wire, and use a relay to ground this wire whenever the HVAC function lever calls for A/C, so I have both fans running when the A/C is on. Motor stays nice and cool this way, and my 130A alt easily handles the load.
To test the other relay, do the above to the tan wire w/ orange stripe, it goes into the 2nd from the bottom position on the I/C side of the connector.
found this I know some of it is not new information for you, but the rest may prove beneficial.
Both fans are controlled by the EEC via the IRCM (integrated relay control module), which is the black box with about 24 wires coming out of it located on the front of the drivers side strut tower. To test the aux fan (smaller drivers side one) Pull the connector off the A/C pressure switch, which is in the high side A/C line near the VAM. Turn the key on, and jumper the 2 pins in the connector you just removed. If the aux fan runs, its relay in the IRCM is OK. <which is prolly what the shop did for you previously>
There is an easy way to check the operation of the main (pass side) fan. Run the KOEO EEC diagnostic test. During the test, the main fan should run. If it does, the IRCM, and all the main fan wiring is functioning correctly all the way from the main fan to the EEC. If the main fan comes on during the KOEO test, but fails to come on when the motor gets hot (stock temp gauge up about 1/2 way), the most likely cause is a bad ECT. If you still suspect the IRCM is faulty because the fans failed the above test, then do this before replacing the IRCM: be sure the heavy yellow wires going to pins 3 and 4 of the IRCM are hot at all times. These wires provide power to the fans directly from the battery thru fuse links "L" and "M". Test this with a test light, not a voltmeter.
Running a code test may show a bad ECT, but only if its temp readings are WAY out of wack. In other words, the ECT may be reading temp as lower than it really is, but still not set a code.
There is one relay for each fan in the Integrated Relay Control Module (IRCM) which is the big black box on the front of the passenger side strut tower. Also in there are the power relay for the computer, the fuel pump relay and one other.
Here is some info for testing the relay for the driver's side fan.
Here is how to check the relay for the drivers side fan (smaller one) in the int. controller: Find the PINK wire at terminal 17 of the ICRM. Probe it with a pin, like when checking the TPS voltage. Run a jumper from the probe pin to ground with the key on. When the pink wire is grounded, the lower, drivers side fan should run. If the fan runs, the IRCM is OK. I have tapped into this pink wire, and use a relay to ground this wire whenever the HVAC function lever calls for A/C, so I have both fans running when the A/C is on. Motor stays nice and cool this way, and my 130A alt easily handles the load.
To test the other relay, do the above to the tan wire w/ orange stripe, it goes into the 2nd from the bottom position on the I/C side of the connector.
found this I know some of it is not new information for you, but the rest may prove beneficial.
Last edited by mustangIIfan; 03-11-2013 at 03:14 PM.
03-11-2013, 03:56 PM
#8
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: michigan
Posts: 23
i appreciate the info but i dont even have pin 17 on my IRCM wire harness and there is no pink wire there is not even a cavity on the harness connector but it has 13,14,15,16,17,18 written on it but 17 pink wire is not there and looks like it is like that from factory. i only have one fan, and my ac was removed i still have connectors lying around but no lines, compressor, accumulator. there was a connector on one of the lines off the accumulator is that the connector you speak of?
03-12-2013, 07:28 AM
#9
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Missouri
Posts: 49
ok i found a do-it-yourself test article and i was gonna test power to ircm by cooking test light to pin 3 on the vehicle harness connector for the ircm once i did this sparks flew out and the fan turned on, i then jumped pin 1-3 together and again the fan turned on. any advice?