Thought I was fast...
03-03-2006, 04:47 PM
#11
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location:
Posts: 3,768
RE: Thought I was fast...
Thanks for taking the time to share your experience with me, folks. Good info. I guess I will just slow down, and try to be intelligent about building up my car. Your posts have given me the idea to not S/C my stock motor, but rather to save up another grand or two, and put in a crate motor that is A) fresh, and B) not stock. Then with that foundation--and once I recuperate from the expense--I can think about a S/C. I'm thinking a nice mild crate motor--like 300 horse might suite me just fine. I don't need to be the fastest--just fast
. Thanks for realing me back in[sm=smiley20.gif]
. Thanks for realing me back in[sm=smiley20.gif]
03-03-2006, 04:56 PM
#12
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Long Beach Cali
Posts: 242
RE: Thought I was fast...
ORIGINAL: 91MustangGt
I'm no expert or anything, but you're taking a car thats 14 years older than the competition when compared to the 350z, which is better technology,better power and just better engeenearing and trying to beat him stock. Then you compare yourself to a 97 supra, which is basically toyota's top of the line vehicle, basically even up to date and you compare it with your ( bad *** at the time) v8 mustang- none of these comparisons are gonna make you feel good about your car and your "fast".
Personally, I think its best to do things safe and propper rather than cut corners and get the result you want right away, in this case being the fast car that you want to build but with little reliability. IF you turbo it or S/C it as it sits stock, you're wasting time and money, because 6-8 PSI will make you embarass yourself even more when you get pimped by some guy in a subaru or a dodge neon. That kind of boost means nothing on a stock motor.
I'd suggest you be smart about it and take it slow and let it all come together in time, don't worry about beating 30,000 dollar cars 'cause when you're done yours will be much wilder and better than them just because of the fact that you've got a mustang, a real Muscle car.
Prep the engine- rebuild the motor, stroke it if you want, make sure all the internals are good grade and can handle a strong build it, stroked, blown or turboed( but don't build the motor and stop there, just make it ready to handle these force induction applications). With this done, or preferably before, make sure you got a good wiring system that won't let you down, make sure all your ignition components(stock or high performance replacements) all work well, make sure you've got a good cooling system, good exhaust, good intake, good drivetrain, good tranny and good shifter, make sure your tune ups are on time and the car is maintained frequently. Older cars need alot of bolt tightening, gasket checks, oil checks, full tune ups( spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, oil change, oil filter change and correct air to fuel ratio) to make them run at their best, all of this is extremely significant when you're prepping your motor.
If you can do this( and it will take time and money) a good set of heads, rear gears, correct full exhaust and a good custom built cam for the application will make any blower, turboed or stroked motor give you probably 30% more power out of your stroke, turbo or supercharge rebuild.
All of these things operate like clock work, only when they're in sync and done properly do they give out the full effect, a blower at 8 to 10 psi would tripple if not quadruple the power you'd get out of a stock supercharged engine. With a good tune, you could easily see 500/600 HP with 8 to 10 psi out of the stroke/heads/cam/ intake and exhaust upgrades, BUT remember, that everything else mentioned is key as well.. And as the other guy mentioned before, if you want to put that power to the ground, you got to get your car to hook and I bet you that you're car is gonna be one hard to beat stang if not The stang to beat.
700-800 HP is useless, its nice to hear someone say they got those numbers, specially if its yourself, but unless you've got a full rear end build up on slicks, thats power you're not putting down, a street car isn't ever seeing over 600 HP if its true street, cause that can't be put down with out a fuill rear end build up on slicks.
BUT, with all seriousness after saying all that, I would strongly advice that the first thing you do, unless you've got mechanical problems, is upgrade your brakes- cross drilled and slotted front rotors, new brake pads, front and rear, have stainless steel braided pads put in, have the hand brake adjusted and the rear drum brakes as well- Because with all this HP comes stupidness, cockiness, ego and the idea that you're not gonna fak up and the last thing you want is to take someones life out on the street cause you want to prove you're a badass to the gimp next to you in a riced out honda crx.
BE SAFE. FIRST RULE. NO EXCEPTIONS.
I'm no expert or anything, but you're taking a car thats 14 years older than the competition when compared to the 350z, which is better technology,better power and just better engeenearing and trying to beat him stock. Then you compare yourself to a 97 supra, which is basically toyota's top of the line vehicle, basically even up to date and you compare it with your ( bad *** at the time) v8 mustang- none of these comparisons are gonna make you feel good about your car and your "fast".
Personally, I think its best to do things safe and propper rather than cut corners and get the result you want right away, in this case being the fast car that you want to build but with little reliability. IF you turbo it or S/C it as it sits stock, you're wasting time and money, because 6-8 PSI will make you embarass yourself even more when you get pimped by some guy in a subaru or a dodge neon. That kind of boost means nothing on a stock motor.
I'd suggest you be smart about it and take it slow and let it all come together in time, don't worry about beating 30,000 dollar cars 'cause when you're done yours will be much wilder and better than them just because of the fact that you've got a mustang, a real Muscle car.
Prep the engine- rebuild the motor, stroke it if you want, make sure all the internals are good grade and can handle a strong build it, stroked, blown or turboed( but don't build the motor and stop there, just make it ready to handle these force induction applications). With this done, or preferably before, make sure you got a good wiring system that won't let you down, make sure all your ignition components(stock or high performance replacements) all work well, make sure you've got a good cooling system, good exhaust, good intake, good drivetrain, good tranny and good shifter, make sure your tune ups are on time and the car is maintained frequently. Older cars need alot of bolt tightening, gasket checks, oil checks, full tune ups( spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, oil change, oil filter change and correct air to fuel ratio) to make them run at their best, all of this is extremely significant when you're prepping your motor.
If you can do this( and it will take time and money) a good set of heads, rear gears, correct full exhaust and a good custom built cam for the application will make any blower, turboed or stroked motor give you probably 30% more power out of your stroke, turbo or supercharge rebuild.
All of these things operate like clock work, only when they're in sync and done properly do they give out the full effect, a blower at 8 to 10 psi would tripple if not quadruple the power you'd get out of a stock supercharged engine. With a good tune, you could easily see 500/600 HP with 8 to 10 psi out of the stroke/heads/cam/ intake and exhaust upgrades, BUT remember, that everything else mentioned is key as well.. And as the other guy mentioned before, if you want to put that power to the ground, you got to get your car to hook and I bet you that you're car is gonna be one hard to beat stang if not The stang to beat.
700-800 HP is useless, its nice to hear someone say they got those numbers, specially if its yourself, but unless you've got a full rear end build up on slicks, thats power you're not putting down, a street car isn't ever seeing over 600 HP if its true street, cause that can't be put down with out a fuill rear end build up on slicks.
BUT, with all seriousness after saying all that, I would strongly advice that the first thing you do, unless you've got mechanical problems, is upgrade your brakes- cross drilled and slotted front rotors, new brake pads, front and rear, have stainless steel braided pads put in, have the hand brake adjusted and the rear drum brakes as well- Because with all this HP comes stupidness, cockiness, ego and the idea that you're not gonna fak up and the last thing you want is to take someones life out on the street cause you want to prove you're a badass to the gimp next to you in a riced out honda crx.
BE SAFE. FIRST RULE. NO EXCEPTIONS.
Lost Me At "I'm no expert...."
It was supercharged though..so who knows.
03-03-2006, 05:35 PM
#14
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: KY
Posts: 13,396
RE: Thought I was fast...
ok i beat a 350z a while back when i was pretty much stock and they were stock so all i can say is drop a lil bit of money into it and i think u will take him depending on what he has done and definately get some gears 3.73 or 4.10's
03-03-2006, 05:36 PM
#15
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Springfield, VA
Posts: 261
RE: Thought I was fast...
I don't think the 350Z is all that without a bunch of mods. My other car is a 99 Maxima, and I have run a personal best of 13.6@101. I was running an 80 shot of nitrous, slicks, and have a 3.0 liter engine with a few bolt on mods. Last year we had a big track meet with all of the guys from Maxima.org, and MY350Z.org. Most of the 350Z's were running low 14.00's@100. The fastest guy there had a big turbo, and lots of mods, but could not put down a better run than 12.8. I have seen 5.0 Mustangs from the early 1990's run 12.8 with intake, exhaust, gears.
If you put a little into your car, you will catch him. Just don't race him on a curved surface.
If you put a little into your car, you will catch him. Just don't race him on a curved surface.
03-03-2006, 05:44 PM
#16
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,834
RE: Thought I was fast...
Sounds like the Z had boost of somekind. They are pretty fast stock, but nothing your car couldn't handle w/ the H/C/I makeover like they said above. Now, if the Z is boosting, you'll need a blower or turbo to even it up.
My goal in my fox is to get rid of what I don't need to lighten it, and then 300+ hp at the wheels. Don't forget that losing some weight and stiffening up the chassis/suspension is as good as or better than adding power.
My goal in my fox is to get rid of what I don't need to lighten it, and then 300+ hp at the wheels. Don't forget that losing some weight and stiffening up the chassis/suspension is as good as or better than adding power.
03-03-2006, 05:44 PM
#17
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 15,042
RE: Thought I was fast...
ORIGINAL: 89chatofive0
Lost Me At "I'm no expert...."
ORIGINAL: 91MustangGt
I'm no expert or anything, but you're taking a car thats 14 years older than the competition when compared to the 350z, which is better technology,better power and just better engeenearing and trying to beat him stock. Then you compare yourself to a 97 supra, which is basically toyota's top of the line vehicle, basically even up to date and you compare it with your ( bad *** at the time) v8 mustang- none of these comparisons are gonna make you feel good about your car and your "fast".
Personally, I think its best to do things safe and propper rather than cut corners and get the result you want right away, in this case being the fast car that you want to build but with little reliability. IF you turbo it or S/C it as it sits stock, you're wasting time and money, because 6-8 PSI will make you embarass yourself even more when you get pimped by some guy in a subaru or a dodge neon. That kind of boost means nothing on a stock motor.
I'd suggest you be smart about it and take it slow and let it all come together in time, don't worry about beating 30,000 dollar cars 'cause when you're done yours will be much wilder and better than them just because of the fact that you've got a mustang, a real Muscle car.
Prep the engine- rebuild the motor, stroke it if you want, make sure all the internals are good grade and can handle a strong build it, stroked, blown or turboed( but don't build the motor and stop there, just make it ready to handle these force induction applications). With this done, or preferably before, make sure you got a good wiring system that won't let you down, make sure all your ignition components(stock or high performance replacements) all work well, make sure you've got a good cooling system, good exhaust, good intake, good drivetrain, good tranny and good shifter, make sure your tune ups are on time and the car is maintained frequently. Older cars need alot of bolt tightening, gasket checks, oil checks, full tune ups( spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, oil change, oil filter change and correct air to fuel ratio) to make them run at their best, all of this is extremely significant when you're prepping your motor.
If you can do this( and it will take time and money) a good set of heads, rear gears, correct full exhaust and a good custom built cam for the application will make any blower, turboed or stroked motor give you probably 30% more power out of your stroke, turbo or supercharge rebuild.
All of these things operate like clock work, only when they're in sync and done properly do they give out the full effect, a blower at 8 to 10 psi would tripple if not quadruple the power you'd get out of a stock supercharged engine. With a good tune, you could easily see 500/600 HP with 8 to 10 psi out of the stroke/heads/cam/ intake and exhaust upgrades, BUT remember, that everything else mentioned is key as well.. And as the other guy mentioned before, if you want to put that power to the ground, you got to get your car to hook and I bet you that you're car is gonna be one hard to beat stang if not The stang to beat.
700-800 HP is useless, its nice to hear someone say they got those numbers, specially if its yourself, but unless you've got a full rear end build up on slicks, thats power you're not putting down, a street car isn't ever seeing over 600 HP if its true street, cause that can't be put down with out a fuill rear end build up on slicks.
BUT, with all seriousness after saying all that, I would strongly advice that the first thing you do, unless you've got mechanical problems, is upgrade your brakes- cross drilled and slotted front rotors, new brake pads, front and rear, have stainless steel braided pads put in, have the hand brake adjusted and the rear drum brakes as well- Because with all this HP comes stupidness, cockiness, ego and the idea that you're not gonna fak up and the last thing you want is to take someones life out on the street cause you want to prove you're a badass to the gimp next to you in a riced out honda crx.
BE SAFE. FIRST RULE. NO EXCEPTIONS.
I'm no expert or anything, but you're taking a car thats 14 years older than the competition when compared to the 350z, which is better technology,better power and just better engeenearing and trying to beat him stock. Then you compare yourself to a 97 supra, which is basically toyota's top of the line vehicle, basically even up to date and you compare it with your ( bad *** at the time) v8 mustang- none of these comparisons are gonna make you feel good about your car and your "fast".
Personally, I think its best to do things safe and propper rather than cut corners and get the result you want right away, in this case being the fast car that you want to build but with little reliability. IF you turbo it or S/C it as it sits stock, you're wasting time and money, because 6-8 PSI will make you embarass yourself even more when you get pimped by some guy in a subaru or a dodge neon. That kind of boost means nothing on a stock motor.
I'd suggest you be smart about it and take it slow and let it all come together in time, don't worry about beating 30,000 dollar cars 'cause when you're done yours will be much wilder and better than them just because of the fact that you've got a mustang, a real Muscle car.
Prep the engine- rebuild the motor, stroke it if you want, make sure all the internals are good grade and can handle a strong build it, stroked, blown or turboed( but don't build the motor and stop there, just make it ready to handle these force induction applications). With this done, or preferably before, make sure you got a good wiring system that won't let you down, make sure all your ignition components(stock or high performance replacements) all work well, make sure you've got a good cooling system, good exhaust, good intake, good drivetrain, good tranny and good shifter, make sure your tune ups are on time and the car is maintained frequently. Older cars need alot of bolt tightening, gasket checks, oil checks, full tune ups( spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, oil change, oil filter change and correct air to fuel ratio) to make them run at their best, all of this is extremely significant when you're prepping your motor.
If you can do this( and it will take time and money) a good set of heads, rear gears, correct full exhaust and a good custom built cam for the application will make any blower, turboed or stroked motor give you probably 30% more power out of your stroke, turbo or supercharge rebuild.
All of these things operate like clock work, only when they're in sync and done properly do they give out the full effect, a blower at 8 to 10 psi would tripple if not quadruple the power you'd get out of a stock supercharged engine. With a good tune, you could easily see 500/600 HP with 8 to 10 psi out of the stroke/heads/cam/ intake and exhaust upgrades, BUT remember, that everything else mentioned is key as well.. And as the other guy mentioned before, if you want to put that power to the ground, you got to get your car to hook and I bet you that you're car is gonna be one hard to beat stang if not The stang to beat.
700-800 HP is useless, its nice to hear someone say they got those numbers, specially if its yourself, but unless you've got a full rear end build up on slicks, thats power you're not putting down, a street car isn't ever seeing over 600 HP if its true street, cause that can't be put down with out a fuill rear end build up on slicks.
BUT, with all seriousness after saying all that, I would strongly advice that the first thing you do, unless you've got mechanical problems, is upgrade your brakes- cross drilled and slotted front rotors, new brake pads, front and rear, have stainless steel braided pads put in, have the hand brake adjusted and the rear drum brakes as well- Because with all this HP comes stupidness, cockiness, ego and the idea that you're not gonna fak up and the last thing you want is to take someones life out on the street cause you want to prove you're a badass to the gimp next to you in a riced out honda crx.
BE SAFE. FIRST RULE. NO EXCEPTIONS.
Lost Me At "I'm no expert...."
Take out a 10K loan, stroke it, h/c/i, blower. Than you dont have to worry about any 6cly taking you down
03-03-2006, 05:47 PM
#18
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Springfield, VA
Posts: 261
RE: Thought I was fast...
[/quote]
HaHa! Me too dont worry
Take out a 10K loan, stroke it, h/c/i, blower. Than you dont have to worry about any 6cly taking you down
[/quote]
Unless it is a Supra with a couple of turbos.....
03-03-2006, 05:57 PM
#19
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location:
Posts: 762
RE: Thought I was fast...
ORIGINAL: Twisted
Thanks for taking the time to share your experience with me, folks. Good info. I guess I will just slow down, and try to be intelligent about building up my car. Your posts have given me the idea to not S/C my stock motor, but rather to save up another grand or two, and put in a crate motor that is A) fresh, and B) not stock. Then with that foundation--and once I recuperate from the expense--I can think about a S/C. I'm thinking a nice mild crate motor--like 300 horse might suite me just fine. I don't need to be the fastest--just fast. Thanks for realing me back in[sm=smiley20.gif]
Thanks for taking the time to share your experience with me, folks. Good info. I guess I will just slow down, and try to be intelligent about building up my car. Your posts have given me the idea to not S/C my stock motor, but rather to save up another grand or two, and put in a crate motor that is A) fresh, and B) not stock. Then with that foundation--and once I recuperate from the expense--I can think about a S/C. I'm thinking a nice mild crate motor--like 300 horse might suite me just fine. I don't need to be the fastest--just fast
. Thanks for realing me back in[sm=smiley20.gif]
Anyway, although ur engine is very old, it dosn't mean it is week. Mine runs very strong
You can sc your stock motor! I wouldn't go over 8psi.
Now the real bottleneck on the 5.0 is the heads, like someone said above holley and trickflow make packages (i think around $2000) that will put u in the 350hp range N/A.Then later if u get a s/c....well you know the rest.
I still don't know if I want to get an s/c or h/c/i but at the moment im leaning towrd h/c/i
Unless you have a lot of money, I wouldn't buy a crate engine. You don't need another engine to go fast...
The 350z should beat a 50GT stock for stock but not by a whole lot. The 350z is not "That" fast and you wont have to do much to beat one.
Btw supras are dyno queens. (they are like Peyton Manning, they can put up big numbers but they cant win anything.
)
03-03-2006, 06:04 PM
#20
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location:
Posts: 762
RE: Thought I was fast...
LOL I just re-read your post and saw that your engine only has 104k miles.
Mine has 148XXX and there are people on here have engines with over 200k
judge your engine not by how old it is, but by how strong YOU know it runs. If it burns oil, backfires, or something else I wouldn't s/c it, but if its runnning strong, do whatever you want!
Mine has 148XXX and there are people on here have engines with over 200k
judge your engine not by how old it is, but by how strong YOU know it runs. If it burns oil, backfires, or something else I wouldn't s/c it, but if its runnning strong, do whatever you want!