TheGmKiller331

FUEL INJECTION TO CARBURATION CONVERSION


Parts list:



Ford Duraspark Ignition* $20.00

Ballast Resistor** $3.00

1985 5.0 Mustang 5-speed Distributor*** $75.00

Rotor Button for Distributor***** $5.00

Dist. To Cap adapter $6.00

Fuel Pressure Regulator**** $25.00

6 ft. of 5/16 Braided Fuel Line $30.00

8- 5/16 Hose Clamps $10.00

50 ft. of 14ga to 16ga Wire $20.00

Various Male and Female Connectors $10.00

Brass Fittings for regulator $5.00

Spectre Throttle Bracket $10.00

Throttle cable kit $30.00



Many of these parts are available at your local auto parts store.



Notes:

***Make absolutely sure that you get this exact distributor. If you don’t it won’t have the steel gear that you need for your roller camshaft.



**The ballast resistor that I use is from any mid 70’s dodge.



****I’ve used the Holley Max Pressure Regulator with great success.



*I use the Duraspark Blue Ignition, seems to be the most common.

Make sure it’s for a V8 vehicle.



***** Your stock cap will fit the new distributor

These prices may vary, and you may choose not to use some of these items. This is just a list of the cheapest way to do this swap.












FUEL INJECTION TO CARBURATION CONVERSION




Step 1: Unplug and remove the old Intake system. Disconnect the fuel lines at the front of the intake. Unplug and remove the old Distributor. Unplug any wiring that fastens to the Computer harness that exits from the passenger side fire wall.



Step 2: Remove the passenger side interior kick panel. Now you can access the Computer.



Step 3: Remove the Computer. Unplug any wiring plugs under the dash that connect to the computer harness and proceed to feed the harness thru into the interior from the engine compartment.



Note: At this point I’m sure you’ve decided whether or not your going to keep your emissions. If you chose not to you can discard all of those items now. Also a neat trick to plugging the holes in the back of your heads is to take the piping off. Cut the blocks off each end, and flip them around. Bolt them back on backwards and the heads are sealed.



Step 4: Install your new Intake and Distributor.



Step 5: Install the ignition system. If you chose to use the Duraspark version, this is a brief layout of the wiring. It’s really quite simple.

Red wire: to ignition hot wire

White wire: to accessory hot wire

Green wire: to negative side of coil

Orange wire: to orange wire on dist.

Purple wire: to purple wire on dist.

Black wire: to black wire on dist.

Positive side of coil: to ignition hot wire thru ballast resistor

Start bypass wire: from crank hot only to coil side of ballast resistor





Step 6: Install the Fuel Pressure Regulator. I like to mount this along the passenger side frame rail. I’ve been told that mounting this further toward the front of the car, in relation to the carburetor, works best. Now that you’ve mounted the regulator, cut your metal fuel line that ran to the fuelie intake, so that you can attach it to the regulator. On the inlet side of the regulator attach your feed line (the larger metal line), using the braided steel fuel line.



Note: You must use braided steel line on this, as the fuel pressure is too great for regular fuel line and it will fail! I use 2 clamps on each side of this hose, just for extra measure.



Next install the return line(the smaller metal line) onto one of the outlets from the regulator. Now you can run your fuel line to the carburetor from the other outlet in the regulator. I use braided line on all of this just to meet IHRA rules.



Note: This set up will easily support 400hp with the stock pump! The stock in-tank pump is 90lph@45psi. This is more than adequate to feed an aggressive carb combo. Also, if you plan to run nitrous, you can install an in-line, adjustable airline restrictor (Walmart $5.00) in the return line. At the track you can easily raise your fuel pressure up to 3psi by restricting the return line this way.



Step 7: Now to finish up Fuel system wiring. You will have to run an ignition hot wire back to the fuel pump relay under the drivers seat. It should be a Pnk/Blk wire. Cut and splice power to relay until you here the fuel pump run with the key on.



Note: You may want to run this to a switch so you can kill the pump if for some reason you have the key on and the cars not running. Example; Playing the Radio.



Step 8: Now you can finish your wiring. You need to find the 9 wire connector in the drivers side rear corner of the engine compartment. In that plug you’ll find a Red/white wire and a White/red wire that you will splice into. The Red/white wire attaches to your water temperture sending unit on your intake.

The White/red wire attaches to your oil pressure sending unit on your timing cover.



Note: You can transfer the water temp sending unit over from the old intake. Also, you can transfer the metal heater hose lines over too. You will want to plug the sensor hole with a pipe fitting. You can use a vacuum plug on the small water line on top with a hose clamp. This makes for a nice clean install.



Step 8: Turn on the key. Check for fuel leaks. Fire it up and set the timing.

acidman2

"Also a neat trick to plugging the holes in the back of your heads is to take the piping off. Cut the blocks off each end, and flip them around. Bolt them back on backwards and the heads are sealed. "



the holes are also threaded for 5/8" bolts, so you can clean the carbon out of these holes and screw in a short bolt.. this makes a good seal too.