mustang86driver

Hey guys i'm new to this forum but I have a problem. I just baught a new clutch cuz mine died and i'm trying to get off my H-pipe and i can't get the hangers out of them stupid rubber pieces, any tricks to that? And also with the clutch, does the motor oil and tranny fluid have to be drained or just the motor oil. and any idea what the tourque specs are when i put it back together? Any help is greatly appritiated.

ikeybmg

you dont have to drain anything. and you should be able to pull the hangers out of the fittings. try some wd-40 to slick em up a little

Liquid_02

Just unbolt the hanger from the body, there should be two bolts. You don't have to take it out of the rubber. No fluid has to be drained to change it, though if you wanted you could drain the tranny fluid incase it tilts far enough back so the fluid leaks out but I'd say nah, I never drained mine when I dropped it. If you want torque specs i'd suggest getting a Chilton manual, they're actually very good books if you ever want to do anything to your car, Haynes, not so good, Chilton is better. they're like 15 bucks or so, good investement. But, I believe the bellhousing to engine is 35lbs, clutch is 25 or something better not say.. Basically, just tighten them until you feel like it's enough, honestly torque specs don't even matter until you get into engine parts, like heads, bearings etc. On other parts you could over tighten by 40lbs and they won't care.

mustang86driver

Wow nice fast answer guys, I just signed up to this forum and allready i love it. I had a motorsports clutch in the thing and it only last like 8k miles for some reason, i'd say it was my driving but i had the car for 20k miles with the stock clutch in it before that one went bad. one mroe question having to do with geting the flywheel cut down... do you think I really need to get it cut when the last clutch only lasted 8k miles and it was cut when that one went in?

89GTRed

I just changed my H pipe and had same prob. I just used some WD-40 worked great, they slid right out!

Liquid_02

You mean the surface ground down so it's flat? probably not as long as your clutch didn't completely wear. You'll know right away once you get your old clutch off, if the flywheel is nice and smooth (or close to), not a problem, if not back to the machine shop.

It only lasted for 8K? Slammin some gears were we? :P Or it might have been out of adjustment aswell . Or you might just be riding it a little too much

randy78045

Its a good idea to resurface the flywheel every time you change the clutch...

ikeybmg

flywheel is like brake rotors in a way. you have to have it turned if its grooved or rough but not if its smooth.

Liquid_02

Exactly, even though I don't even bother turning rotors, unless they're really bad of course, but if they have the regular small grooves and such in them i don't bother, they pads wear to them anyway. So technically, you may even get better braking if it's grooved due to extra surface area due to the grooves but I dunno, I'm just being stupid... 3:30 in the morning :\

gspfunk

You might consider getting an adj cable, quadrant, and firewall adjuster since your clutch wore out so fast. Even w/ harsh driving, I don't see it happening that fast unless your stock quadrant is broken or worn out.

Your clutch could have been installed incorrectly (not judging your skills or anything), but it sounds more like it's not disengaging completely.

Liquid 02--that's funny you said that about Haynes b/c I've always felt the opposite. My Hanyes is much more helpful than Chilton. Haynes tells you how to do things where as Chilton's instructions are really generic and lack any detail in a lot of cases. Needless to say, I've learned a lot more researching everything online instead of using either one