Project Car.
#11
RE: Project Car.
Ok, here goes...
Look at the VIN tag on the dash of your car. the 5th digit of it is which engine it was built with. If the letter is 'F' you have a 302.
The 2nd digit will tell you where it was born. 'F' for Dearborn or 'R' for San Jose, calif.
The 6th -11th digits are the nit numbers, they will start at 100,000.
I don't know about any 'quick fix' for the roof, maybe takes professional help.
I would stuck with a 5.0 (302) but get a later one using the post '86 block and use the hydraulic roller cam. Then you could run a carb and be right there for not a huge amount of $$.......
Look at the VIN tag on the dash of your car. the 5th digit of it is which engine it was built with. If the letter is 'F' you have a 302.
The 2nd digit will tell you where it was born. 'F' for Dearborn or 'R' for San Jose, calif.
The 6th -11th digits are the nit numbers, they will start at 100,000.
I don't know about any 'quick fix' for the roof, maybe takes professional help.
I would stuck with a 5.0 (302) but get a later one using the post '86 block and use the hydraulic roller cam. Then you could run a carb and be right there for not a huge amount of $$.......
#13
RE: Project Car.
About the rear-end, your car has a 7.5" rear-end, known to be blown up in a flash with the 5.0. It's the same rear-end they put in the 4cyl mustangs from 87-93 at least, probably the older ones too i'm assuming. So get the bigger, better 8.8.
#16
RE: Project Car.
If you live in/near large city try the 'pull-a-part' type auto wreckers. You should find that rearend under lots of 5.0 'stangs. Try '86 and later.....
DO NOT try and use one from a Ford Ranger, it will look like a fit but it isn't.
Don't think you should have to +pay over $100 for it either....
DO NOT try and use one from a Ford Ranger, it will look like a fit but it isn't.
Don't think you should have to +pay over $100 for it either....
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