Red5Ltr

I just put a new set of heads on my 93' LX hatchback and when I put the distributor back in it took awhile to get the timing right. I went from stock heads to a set of GT40 heads that were ported and polished to 1.94 and 1.60 stainless raceflow valves and honeycomb springs and retainers. My car is a big DOG compaired to the stang with the stock heads. I think that I'm off on the distributor location. Is there a correct way to place the distributor so I can start off correctly. Also can someone tell me the correct way to set the timing? My stang should run a hell of a lot better especially with the bigger heads.

PLEASE HELP [:-]

hotrodman

pull #1 plug get on compression stroke,,get balancer at 14 deg before top dead center,,pull dist cap check rotor to see if its pointing towards the #1 on the dist.cap...that should get you close,,,,to set timing ,,unplug spout connector set timing ,,and plug spout plug back in...also bigger heads hurts low end power.but gain on top end..something must be a miss??

red347

Isn't 14 degrees initial on a Mustang a bit on the "edge"? Don't want to cause detonation the first time out. I know they are factory at 10, and have seen some guys at 12-13 to get a few more HP, but is it wise to start at 14?

Just asking..

Ron

Red5Ltr

You say that I will sacrifice low end power, but I should be able to roll the tire right? If I wanted to set the timing at 12 to 13 degrees I would follow the same as I would to have it at 14 degrees? But what about the timing after you replace the spout connector. It's no where near 14 degrees? Here are the mods I have shouldn't I have some low end power? Enough to roll the tires? .

E303 cam, Edelbrock Performer lower and upper, 70mm throttle body, 3.73 gears, BBK cold air intake, BBK 1-5/8 equal length shorties, BBK H-pipe, AOD tranny with shift kit

SpeedRicer

...it's not going to read 14 (or whatever you set it at w/the spout connector off) when you reinstall the connector.

TheGmKiller331

HELL NO!

Do not start out at 14 degrees!I like to start off at 10 degrees (FACTORY SETTINGS) and then in small increments move up just until i begin to here theslightest amount of detonation then back it off a hair and your ready to roll.

But 14 is going to be the highest i would go without worrying about detonation which will kill your motor in no time flat!

SpeedRicer

haha, i can speak from experience on that one. i posted here about a month ago and was suggested 14 and about a week later...knock knock knock...rebuild. ah well, it all worked out

Red5Ltr

Right now I think that I'm at 14* but I'm not sure about which mark you use to set the timing. Is it the circle or the straight arrow type thing that the numbers line up with. I'm running 93 octane gas, and I have't heard any knocking at all, but I will back it down some. I still think that I'm off a couple of teeth on the distributor because when I bought the car it had stock heads it would roll the tires with no problem and it shifted great. Now it hesitates and it's a DOG. My wife friggin 99' Bravada would beat it. I put larger heads on it GT40's 1.94 - 1.60 58cc combustion chamber. How the hell do you properly put the distributor in so that I can time it? I've been told #1 TDC make sure the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug wire and set the balancer to what ever time I want to advance it to. I.E 12* Is this correct or should I be at 0 on the balancer. I need some seroius help.

Thank you

hotrodman

do you have adjustable timing light,,,,when you pull the connector back in it should advance it even more but dont worry about that because your setting it with it unplugged,,i dont have fi ,,im a carb man,,a can run mine at 18 but with 117 octane,,,has great throttle reponse,,,11,1 compression,,if you have adjustable timing light ,,turn **** to get bal, mark on 0 thats your timing..what it says on your dail..