aode08

Now the problem im having, is when I want to get codes from my ECM AND TURN THE KEY , YOU HERE THE COMPONENTs CHECKING THEMSELVES BUT THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STAYS FIRM AND DOES NOT BLINK OR FLASH. And when connected toe EEC-IV SCANNER, IT SHOWED ERROR. Same happens using paper clip method.

IS MY ECM SHOT? ITS THE A9L OR A9P 5.0 AUTO

This car has poor power as well.

I can unplug a ton of things and the check engine light will not come, but the car may run funny or die. WTF!??


also i have 351w heads on a 302 the needs the bigger spark plugs with short heads does anyone know f a name or part number etc i can get at the auto store that matches the needed range

aode08

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Joel5.0

The ECM is a suspect indeed.....do a modified clip method attempt, by connecting the STI pin to the battery ground instead of the SIGRTN terminal of the VIP connector....Let us know how it does.

aode08

ok can you draw me a diagram or describe the terminal to ground and the exact procedure, THIS IS OLD/ NEW TO ME (eec-iv).


Also an luck on my 351w D0OE head's question??? anyone

aode08

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Joel5.0

Following the clip method, you would jump the Self-Test In (STI) connector to the SIG-RTN pin of the VIP connector, as shown above....instead, jump the STI connector to battery (-).

On the spark plugs....Autolite #45?...those are the ones I use with my 289cid heads....colder ranges should be available though. GL

aode08

I followed the procedure, the same results.


The ECM starts by activating relays etc, but will not flash the test light light whatsoever, the test light stays solid lit and yes EVERYTHING IS IN THE EXACT LOCATION AS ABOVE AND STI TO GROUND AND NOT JUMPED.




Now the second issue, maybe not related, when I got to turn the key to ON no start, the only light comes on is the BATTERY SYMBOL, but when i turn to start, thats when you see the rest of the lights comes on in the START POSITION.

Also the starter is not getting the 12volts to the SOLENOID on fender(small red wire on top), and I replaced the IGNITION SWITCH, same results, perhaps, I can start to look someone for a common solution or maybe these are two seperate issues.

HONESTLY I DONT SEE HOW THIS CAR IS DRIVING LOL, also what did you gap your autolits plugs to? remember i hav 351 w HEADS BIG CHEVY VALVES AND RACE PORTED

Joel5.0

It's an electrical nightmare indeed.....let's break the problem down so you can do some checks.......

1. Starter solenoid activation voltage:

I don't know the specific setup (manual or auto tranny) you had installed, but need to check the clutch switch or neutral safety switch portion of the circuit...a problem there, and the solenoid will not get the activation voltage.....use the appropriate wiring diagram for your year/setup from the ones available at http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/, you'll the starting circuit details at the top left corner of the diagrams.

2. ECM self-test activation.....:

Using the same wiring diagram above, you would have to do a voltage and ground check with a DVOM as follows:
[ul][*] ECM disconnected, Ign Off, check for 12vdc at pin 1(Keep Alive Memory or KAM)...reading should be 12 vdc.[*] ECM disconnected, Ign On, check for 12vdc at pins 37 & 57(VPWR)....reading should be 12 vdc.[*] ECM disconnected, Ign Off, check resistance to ground at pins 20, 40, 49 & 60...reading should be < 5 ohms.[*] ECM connected, check continuity of SIGRTN wire at VIP connector to ground...reading should be < 5 ohms.[*] ECM connected, Ign On, check for 5 vdc VREF at TPS, BP/MAP and EVP sensor...reading should be between 4.8 vdc and 5.15 vdc.
[/ul]

If the above tests check out OK....... ECM is fubar'ed. Let us know what results you get though.

ADDED: Regarding the spark plugs gap, I run them at .035 - .040 with a Comp 9000 Mallory dizzy, no ignition box in setup, yet (planning on a Mallory or Crane though).

aode08

your fourth sentence you mention check for continuity SIGRTN, but you gave an ohm spec, do i check for continutiy or resistance? ALSO IS THE IGN ON OR OFF AT THIS STEP SPECIFICALLY

Joel5.0

All resistance or continuity checks have to be made Ign Off.....forgot to add that on that one....my bad.

FYI...a circuit or wire with a good continuity is one with a resistance less than 5 ohms or as close to 0 as possible....they share the same measurement unit...ohms. Let us know the outcome of the tests.