meiguoren33

My clutch was slipping when I toof the car for a spin this morning at like 55. Otherwise, it went into gear fine and hooked up fine. So I adjust the cable by pulling up on the clutch pedal ( hear a pop) then press it a few times but never here it ratchet. Of course, the problem is now worse because the car grinds into first and reverse,,,,, well it won't go in with the motor running. Stop the engine put it in gear start it with the clutch in and it starts moving with the pedal to the floor.

Anybody know whats the problem or what type of aftermarket clutch cable, adjuster, quadrant, whatever will make this problem go away??

PRO50SC

I just put a new cable in one of mine this mornin. The plastic housing broke where it goes into the trans. Yours could have the same peroblem or it could be the ratchet mechanism under the dash. You'll have to nose around to find out. I just put a stock cable back in it. Back on the road.

meiguoren33

How long did it take you? I was readin about replacing it on IATN this mornin and it sounded like a 4-5 hour ordeal. Guys were sayin to remove the seat to get access under the dash, crap about the firewall being damaged, a couple said that the adjuster from Summit made the job easier. Alldata was clear as mud as usual. I'm not a pansy, just wonderin what it takes. Got my daughters for the holidays and don't want to spend it with them starin at my a$$ under the car. If it has to wait until Monday I can still order a good one tommorrow and recieve it b4 then.

PRO50SC

LOL! Look, I'm a pretty thick guy and I did not take out the seat! It took about 30 min. I'm a tech so I have use of a lift.

Do this....

Car in the air, jackstands, w/e you're gonna use.
Disconnect the cable from the trans, There is a cover you remove first, than a c-clip that hold the cable in the trans housing.
Up top, remove the cable bracket on the left frame rail
Remove the screw that hold the cable to the fire wall.

Now the fun part.

Inside the car.
There will be plenty of slack in the cable now to remove it from the adjusting quadrant.
Pull the cable out

Start by putting the new cable back into the trans first, into the fork, than secure it w/ the c-clip.
Feed the cable back up top like it was, bolt down the bracket to the frame wall.
Feed the cable through the fire wall and put the securing screw back in.

Now comes the teedious part.
Under the dash, right hand, middle finger, push the small adjusting paw back towards the firewall while at the same time w/ your index finger pulling the adjustment cam back. ( both of these pieces are spring loaded, that's part of the challenge) While holding all this w/ the 2 fingers, you have to manage to feed the cable back over the quadrant and hook it where it was when you started. For this, I used a telescoping magnet and grabbed the end of the cable w/ it to assist me in getting the cable fed back in. Now I had to do this a couple of time before I struck victory, but it wasn't that bad. Once the cable is connected, slowly let go w/ the right hand and then pull up on the cluch pedal for the self adjuster mechanism to relocate itself. Push it in and out a couple times and that's it.

G/L, I hope this helps you out.

Oh and the cable was $110.00 from good ole Henry J. [:@]

meiguoren33

Yep, I'll copy it an save it. Thanks!! Guess I'll sneak out later and see what went wrong.

PRO50SC

LOL! Good luck man!

87FiveO

I have no lift and i can swap my cable out in like 30-45min its not hard at all

gspfunk

Nice walkthrough Pro! I would definitely replace the stock plastic quadrant, they tend to break. Steeda, UPR, and others make billet quads that you can replace it with.

PRO50SC

Thanks bro, I try!

fastfox86

Swapping cables is super easy. You might as well get a new billet quadrant and a firewall adjuster along with the new cable and set it up right. Get a non-adj cable though if you are putting in firewall adj.