5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

Body work

Old 04-19-2006, 12:03 AM
  #11  
Tims 88GT
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Default RE: Body work

EXPENSIVE
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Old 04-19-2006, 12:06 AM
  #12  
282GT308LX
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Default RE: Body work

Basically you heard bad things about bondo due improper use...I have seen some ****....bondo needs to go on to bare metal....people have put this over sealers and primers etc....is just doesnt work this way....and also because people wouldnt even pop out dents theyd just "plop" pounds and pounds of bondo on at a time....KNOCK out your dents/dings as good as possible with body hammers...then use bondo for the rest....its the best/cheapest/fastest route to go.....btw it is A LOT! harder then you think....
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Old 04-19-2006, 12:09 AM
  #13  
rmodel65
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Default RE: Body work

also lead fillers breed rust ever seen a body seam on a vintage car? where a large spot is bulging out? the plastic fillers offer better corrosion resistance. but never leave bodyfiller unprimed it absorbs water!!
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Old 04-19-2006, 12:10 AM
  #14  
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there are better fillers than bondo.
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Old 04-19-2006, 12:13 AM
  #15  
rmodel65
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yeah bondo is just a name brand i like to use evercoat it sands easy
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Old 04-19-2006, 12:15 AM
  #16  
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f'in right thats what im using. good sh8t haha.
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Old 04-19-2006, 01:16 AM
  #17  
99mustang0
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Default RE: Body work

I had a couple small dents that i used bondo for, i didnt go to bare metal but i got really really close. Like i said they are pretty small. Think that kind of thing will eventually come out?? Is that something i need to sand back down and start over? JW.
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Old 04-19-2006, 01:27 AM
  #18  
rmodel65
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Default RE: Body work

if u scuffed it with 80 u might get away with it if its real thin!
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Old 04-19-2006, 04:17 AM
  #19  
99mustang0
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ya, i used 80 and its was thin. then i sanded the **** out of it. hopefully it wont come off later. that would suck.
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Old 04-19-2006, 10:17 AM
  #20  
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Default RE: Body work

Have anyone ever heard of taking it down to metal and using self etching epoxy primer before filling to seal the metal and prevent rust? I also mix Evercoat metal glaze in with the light weight body filler it makes it go on alot smother when filling small inperfections. After that just use the glaze for last coat the prime with high build and block out. After that if it looks good seal and paint.
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