preciousroy

if you have a multimeter that can read milliamps, you can do a battery draw test. what your gonna do is drive the car a good 15 minutes to make sure all modules and sensors have been energized. then, your going to put your mulimeter on milliamps, secure one lead to the negative battery post, and one to the negative battery cable, the point is not to break the current flow at any time. a good way to do it is to have the battery cable clamped on the post as high up as possible, so you can get the multimeter lead under and secure it to the post with vise grips. anyway, after connecting the leads, disconnect the cable so your multimeter is now 'inline' with the negative battery current. let the car sit like 45 minutes so all modules power down. check your reading, i think the max allowable draw is like .045 milliamps or something. if its more, your going to start pulling out fuses one by one until the draw drops. when your pulling the fuses, do not put them back in if they dont change anything, as that can wake up a module again and throw off the readings. when you find the culprit fuse, find out what it powers, and start disconnecting component connectors to narrow it down to the actual part or ground causing the concern.. hope this helps

SpL!T

I was thinking about the sunvisors,they turn on when they like it,thanks to all,i will make the tests by the week...

Tims 88GT

haha man im good, yep the sin vizors in the stangs suck. i could not find my problem for like a month or more. then one night i got into the car and before i opend the door i saw the light, i was like u sob. but the problem is fixed now.

SpL!T

jeje i'll cross my fingers

Tims 88GT

i hope it helps ya.