infantrycav

just finished relocating the battery to the hatch, you can kind of feel the extra weight holding the axle down but until I get the new rims and tires I can't really feel too much, should pull the front up a bit more from a dig with all the weight I've taken off the front. Now I just need a hole saw to cut out some of the drivers fender to put the new radiator catch can in and patch up some of the holes where the batt. once was.

randy78045

did you use a kit? Which? An does that put addl drain on your battery? I mean, do you need a larger battery with more amps to push over the long cable?

infantrycav

I used the summit kit, i think it was $45... although the fitment wasn't the best, the battery hold down bolts won't fit inside the box like they should, but i wont be going to the track for a long while anyways so I'm fabbing an aluminum bracket to hold it down, for now the box hold down is good enough.
the kit includes enough 2gauge wire and it shouldn't place any strain on your charging sytstem. I have an electric fan so I plan on upgrading to a 130A alt. later but there is no extra load that I've noticed with the longer wires, as long as you have a tight clean ground.

grabbem88

you have to get a kill switch...box has to be sealed,and vented...

you didn't get the marine grade box did you?....

infantrycav

yeah it has instructions for marine and automotive. Still need to run the vent tube to the outside and cover the vent on the lid. Does the NHRA rulebook state that all car's with a non OEM trunk mounted battery thats been relocated needs a kill switch? **** i forgot that. like i said I won't be going to the track anytime soon but will prolly get a switch soon and mount it by the license plate.
the kit isnt the best but it'll do. I might buy an aluminum box later but they are pricy at around $100+.

grabbem88

not bad considering morroso is just as expensive,and it's composite plastic.

OnyxCobra

sounds cool. just curious, why do you need a kill switch, and a sealed box with venting?

randy78045

Does the kill switch have to be any specific type/style?

grabbem88

when battery is not in factory location..if a problem exsists and your ignition isn't working you can pop hood so they can kill battery...

it has to be sealed/vented,cause of battery fumes in **** pit....


as for the switch it has to have an on/off lable on it....i used a summit switch/painless wiring relay 4 gage wire to
alt.00 for ground,and 00 for positive..grounded to engine also.

randy78045

Ive been thinking about relocating my battery but seems like a lot for just a few pounds off the front end...