Johnnyfamunda

My Equals don't touch on the passenger site but it does touch my steering shaft. I did replace the motor mounts at the same time though.

chath_brick

has anybody had similar problems with an sn-95 with bbk unequals? these should fit better right? I'm putting these on my car soon...

4trax

The only reason they hit is cause of the mounts. Replace the mounts they fit awesome and you don't have to jack up anything. They will slide off and on very easy been there done that.

2 kwik

yep use the poly mounts

WizardBlack

So, solid mounts break? Or you are saying they are going to break something else? The mounts should hold the motor up so the headers aren't touching...

r.barn

equal legnth headers are always supposed to be a bear to install
from I've heard, harder than the Longtubes even.

I'm going with the L-T's myself i think.

WizardBlack

Other than that, they weren't bad. The wide sweeping tubes on the passenger side are difficult with the width between the frame and the top of the head where it meets the valve cover. By removing the alternator and the spark plugs, you should be able to slide it in on a car with properly functioning engine mounts. Obviously the air pump plumbing can be an issue but mine is removed. Mine didn't have good engine mounts so I jacked it up partially on the oil pan (it didn't damage it) and partially by wedging the car's emergency jack between the frame and the alternator bracket to push the engine up and to the driver's side a tad. With that, it slid in.

On the subject of solid engine mounts, Brothers Performance said it will be fine. There are a couple DON'T situations though:
If you use a solid trans mount, DON'T use anything OTHER THAN a solid engine mount set. Almost all the torsion will be held in check by the trans mount and could break it.
If you have a very powerful setup (by the way he said it, I am taking to mean AT LEAST forced induction) you shouldn't use all solid mounts since the reinforcement in the engine isn't built to handle the sudden shock of the turbo spooling or tromping the throttle on a charged car. The poly mounts will help absorb some of the shock. The steady state load is fine. That is, unless you are getting crazy (into single digits?); in which case you will need to do something else because the reinforcement areas on the stock blocks are equipped to withstand the power long term. I take it to mean the engine plates. Perhaps a torque link bar will help with all these. Anyways, to what Brother's said:
If you drag race, you want poly for a little less brutal drivetrain loading to help with traction.
If you road race, you want solid for quicker response in corners. RR requires smoother driving anyways.
If you daily drive, use poly.

DavidR

Take a felt marker, outline the area where the header tube hits the brace. Remove the header and take a big hammer and wack it a couple of times. Works for me!

gspfunk

Poly mounts are as firm as you should go for a daily unless you want a car that shakes your chocolate milk for you.[sm=wootwoot.gif]

^^^I would have said shakes your beer up, but that illegal